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my trapezius and arms muscles are over developed as compared to my deltoids thus giving me a greater angle from my neck to your deltoid. This is partly what has caused me recent TF suit to fit so poorly.

The waist supression only accentuates this as it forces the shoulder of the suit to it's maximum extension, exacerbating the fact that there is nothing there to provide support to the sleeve of the jacket.

Lets examine the Daniel Craig in Tom Ford



Note here that on the right shoulder of his suit you see the exact same crinkle problem that my suit seems to be experiencing, albeit to a lesser degree.

My theory is that this is because Daniel Craig has a similarly overdeveolped trapzius relative to his deltoids, although less so than me.


Note on the photograph on the right he clearly has a large angle from the ouside curve of his deltoid to the top of his trapezius. Clearly the shoulder of the suit is to fault for the crinkle in the shoulders not Daniel Craig's physique.

Thus I conclude that I am simply not built for TF. No amount of tailoring will make me fit into that line, short of having, massive shoulder pads inserted into the shoulder. However this would completely destroy the TF look I am going for. I think the following picture of Craig has him in a particularly well fitted jacket



Note the softer more rounded shoulder perfectly complements his body type, granted this is from the Layer Cake premire when he was less bulky and more lean, but as you can see the shoulder fits very well.

TF seems to be more suited (please forgive the pun) to someone like Chuck Liddell, with very broad shoulders yet a small angle between outside curve of deltoid and top of trapezius. Observe:
 

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lets not make this complicated. even though you are muscular its just a case of sloping shoulders. that greater angle is what a sloping shoulder really is nothing more. now the over developed muscles is another story.
 

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IMO, this is more of a health than a tailoring issue.

If you really have a major asymmetry between your delts on the one hand and your traps and upper arms on the other, shoulder trouble could be lying in wait.

My hunch would be that the best solution is to train the delts more and let the tailoring chips fall where they may.
 

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Puzzling

Prominently developed trapezius is common among weightlifters. Differential development of muscle groups are the result of improper training emphasis or form, with some genetic predisposition thrown in for good measure. Concentrating on your delts might help, but that's down the road. So the immediate solution is to find a tailor who can accommodate your physique as it is now.

It's hard for me to believe that a good tailor couldn't come up with some combination of cut and padding to create a smooth transition from collar to sleeve. If you don't want to go the built from scratch route, you might consider buying an athletic cut RTW in a size that gives you plenty of room in the shoulders and sleeves and take it around to a few reputable tailors to see what they would propose to modify to your fit.
 

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Wow Avarice, that is some seriously detailed analysis, holy crap. :) I actually looked and looked and I don't see the crinkle near the right shoulder in the first picture.

But I do see your point. I totally know what you mean. If you exercise even just a little, depending on what you do you can build up that trap muscle, and kapow - no more square shoulders. (This definitely doesn't indicate any kind of muscle imbalance.) And yeah, trying to wear either a suit or shirt cut for square shoulders totally will not work, you'll get unsightly bunching of fabric in odd places.

So the thing to do, is go bespoke and I have to imagine the tailor can cut the material to make it fit. I understand you want the square shouldered look, and I'm curious if a tailor could make your suit look like that.

If not, go with what you've got.

"sloping shoulders" sounds wimpy, but the fact is, it's more often the squared shoulders that are lacking muscle. That's why they're square.
 

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A couple of thoughts. I'm not sure that Daniel Craig is the perfect comparison. He's a relatively slight guy who's built himself up for the Bond role by a lot of working out, but not necessarily heavy mass building workouts. From various sources, he's 5-10, 172 lbs.

Chuck Lidell is supposed to be 6-2 and 205. I say supposed to be, because I'm not sure he's that tall in reality. Could be the suit ;) more likely it is that athletes tend to add 1-2 inches to their listed weights.

Depending on your size, the TF suits cut might not be a good fit for you - even though it ends up looking good on Craig (although I'm sure he has an infinite amount of tailoring available to make it look good!)

Myself, I am 5-11, 190, wearing a 42 jacket size, but a 34" waist (grew up on a farm, played football, wrestled and played rugby when younger). I haven't tried on TF, but there are a lot of suits I can't wear because the shoulders are cut for someone who has no shoulders.

As the others have noted, "square" shoulders isn't an indication of strength. Many of the suits OTR I can't wear have squared shoulders and a lot of padding to fit a thin, square shoulder (this includes a narrow cut Belvest that was beautiful.. just not on me)

Other suits that don't work are ones that are cut in an ultra narrow fashion. They simply aren't made to have that much volume in between the shoulders.

That doesn't mean a good fit is impossible. In fact, I've found plenty of suits that fit in the shoulders and that my tailor can fit to my waist quite well. I just don't look to almost anything that has a narrow cut (prada, for instance), and I don't normally look for anything that has a fashion-forward 3 button/narrow lapel (although some 3 buttons do fit - it depends on the shoulders). Some of the jackets that fit me best in my wardrobe are from Polo back when they were made in the USA. Excellent balance of shoulder and lapel, nicely accommodating for my shoulders, yet able to taper nicely in the jacket.

The point here is that a good tailor can certainly set you up with something that fits perfectly, and that there are things available OTR as well, they just aren't likely the things that are the most popular at this time.
 

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Daniel Craig's traps are not overdeveloped versus his delts. He's go pretty good-sized shoulders, actually and are well proportioned to his delts. His suits are advantaged by being cut to him.
I agree with Cary Grant - Daniel Craig does not have overdeveloped traps. For overdeveloped traps you are talking about powerlifters who do deadlifts, or bodybuilders, of course. Overdeveloped traps, while looking impressive from a muscular point of view, also have the negative effect of making your shoulders appear to be narrower. This is a pic of former World's Strongest Man and powerlifter, Bill Kazmaier. He is 6ft 3" and a monster of a man yet his shoulders appear narrow because of the size of his traps.



Trying to develop your deltoids will have no effect on your problem. If you do have very 'high' traps this must be due to the fact that you either work out or do some athletic activity, combined with a genetic ability that allows your traps to grow easily. If you do work out my advice would be to stop any exercises that are stressing the trapezius, i.e. deadlifts, shrugs, upright rows.

Unless you post a pic it is impossible to tell if what you believe are highly developed traps really are negatively influencing your appearance in the suit - I'm not saying you are wrong, just that a few objective opinions might be helpful.
 
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