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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do you have lapel preferences?

For example, do you like the lapel to be a certain width, do you like the notch in your lapel to be a certain angle, etc?

I prefer a notch lapel rather than peak lapel. I have an exact collar that I like on my shirts but I don't have specific lapel preferences for my jackets - probably because I've bought a lot of custom shirts but only 1 or 2 custom jackets.

Also, how much flexibility do you currently have in the design of the lapel? Is this something that you only have input in for bespoke (not MTM/CMT)?
 

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Here are my preferences (all of which are the only ones I would choose)

All overcoats and topcoats would be high cut, but only for warmth and for no other reasons besides that.

Notch lapels for the following: job interviews (strictly dress SB suits sans vest), dress odd jackets, sportsjackets or odd jackets (casual dress and casual), medium cut and high cut SB vests (dress suit, casual dress suit, casual suit, dress odd, casual dress odd and casual odd) and dress, casual dress and casual SB overcoats and topcoats.

Shawl lapels the following: tuxedo vests (low cut DB and SB), formal odd vests (also low cut DB and SB) and formal SB overcoats and topcoats.

Peak lapels for the following: all DB jackets, DB overcoats and DB topcoats (regardless of whether they are low cut, medium cut or high cut or anything else), low cut SB jackets (which would be dress and formal), morning coats (which would be dress, formal and low cut SB), tailcoats (which would be low cut DB and formal). DB jackets, DB overcoats and DB topcoats would also be dress and formal.

Because I am a medium width girth, the following maximum lapel widths (be it notch lapels, peak lapels or shawl lapels) look best on me:

On a double breasted (or DB for short) jacket and vest (regardless of whether it is low cut, medium cut, high cut or anything else), lapels that are five inches wide.

On a high cut and medium cut SB jacket and vest, lapels that are three inches wide.

On a low cut single breasted (or SB for short) jacket and vest, lapels that are four inches wide.
 

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You should be able to get the lapel shape and width you want in MTM/CMT. We cut everything we make- bespoke and MTM. We can give a customer what ever shape and width he wants. Many operations that sell MTM do not cut the garments themselves. Their ability to offer specific lapel variations depends on who makes the garment for them.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors
www.chipp2.com
 

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I have peak and notched lapel and I prefer notched, even for formal suits; although, not too concerned about the exact measurements of the lapel.

Some, if not all MTM programmes allow the customer to choose the type of lapel. Depending on where you get your MTM suit from reflects the how much choice you have over the lapel. A specialist suit store may allow you to choice the exact measurement of the lapel whereas others will only allow the option of peak or notched.

How the suit is made plays a big part in the options available. A mainly machine made suit will not allow specifics whereas a suit, with lots of hand stitching is likely to allow more flexibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You should be able to get the lapel shape and width you want in MTM/CMT. We cut everything we make- bespoke and MTM. We can give a customer what ever shape and width he wants. Many operations that sell MTM do not cut the garments themselves. Their ability to offer specific lapel variations depends on who makes the garment for them.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors
www.chipp2.com
It seems like, in general, one would not expect a "MTM" tailor to offer very many (if any) alternatives for lapels. I would guess that MTM Brioni or MTM Armani would not offer very many (if any) alternatives, but a MTM tailor who has his own shop might have more flexibility to be able to do this. I'm not sure about this because I've never tried to purchase a MTM Brioni or a MTM Armani....

From what you are saying though, it sounds like any tailor that designates himself as "bespoke" should generally be willing to create a lapel to a customer's desired dimensions. Is this correct?
 

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It seems like, in general, one would not expect a "MTM" tailor to offer very many (if any) alternatives for lapels. I would guess that MTM Brioni or MTM Armani would not offer very many (if any) alternatives, but a MTM tailor who has his own shop might have more flexibility to be able to do this. I'm not sure about this because I've never tried to purchase a MTM Brioni or a MTM Armani....

From what you are saying though, it sounds like any tailor that designates himself as "bespoke" should generally be willing to create a lapel to a customer's desired dimensions. Is this correct?
Made to measure (or MTM for short) from Armani, I am 90% sure no.

MTM from Brioni, H. Freeman and Samuelsohn, I am 75-90% sure yes.

MTM from Oxxford, I am 100+% sure a gargantuan YES (and not merely yes)!!!!! ;)
 

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From what you are saying though, it sounds like any tailor that designates himself as "bespoke" should generally be willing to create a lapel to a customer's desired dimensions. Is this correct?
Armani offers bespoke and if a customer uses their bespoke suit, they can create any lapel the customer wants; with the MTM Armani service, probably not.

As Audi S5 has shown with the examples, a fashion house is less likely to offer many options (e.g. lapel) in their MTM programmes, whereas a tailoring house will have the options.
 

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It seems like, in general, one would not expect a "MTM" tailor to offer very many (if any) alternatives for lapels. I would guess that MTM Brioni or MTM Armani would not offer very many (if any) alternatives, but a MTM tailor who has his own shop might have more flexibility to be able to do this. I'm not sure about this because I've never tried to purchase a MTM Brioni or a MTM Armani....

From what you are saying though, it sounds like any tailor that designates himself as "bespoke" should generally be willing to create a lapel to a customer's desired dimensions. Is this correct?
Absolutely

Paul Winston
Winston Tailors
www.chipp2.com
 

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SB 1-notch lapel is pretty standard.

Are you saying that there are also 2-notch and 3-notch SB lapels? I don't think I've seen this style before. Is this more common in the UK? Do you have any pictures?
Ha ha.

Sb1, 2 or 3 refers to the number of buttons on the suit. I always like my sb3 notched lapels to be a little slimmer as they are shorter.

I hope that explains it!

As for angle...always less than 90...probably nearer 70.

W_B
 
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