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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


I am thinking about ordering a few custom made dress shirts from Land's End.

I wanted to ask your opinion regarding some of the custom options.

COLLAR STYLE:
I prefer a collar without any buttons on the tips, which they offer. But they also offer the option of choosing from couple of wide spread collars. The widest one is called "boardroom". I think that the more narrow, pointed collars are formal looking, while the wider spread collar looks more casual. So, I was thinking about going for the "boardroom" style. Would this look good both without a tie and with one?


CUFF:
They offer a "two button barrel cuff". It's a cuff with two buttons on it, plus the typical third button on the lower forearm. Would a two button cuff look good?

CHEST POCKETS:
I was thinking of having no chest pockets.

FRONT PLACKET:
They offer the standard placket and also a "French placket". The French placket has no stitching on the left side. With the French placket and having no chest pockets, I thought it would give the shirt a very sleek look. But wanted to ask your opinion.


Thanks for the advice!

Chris



 

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I have two LE custom shirts. The thing I dislike about them are the collars--they don't sit very high, nor are they very stiff, but instead kind of floppy, even with the collar stays. I do like the wider, spread collars though.

I dislike the French placket look, but definitely would go for no chest pocket. In fact, I don't have chest pockets on any of my shirts.
 

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To confuse you even more, I've been very comfortable with the "boardroom" collar, and it works for me (5'7", average build). I have the double cuff, and like it a lot. Regular (not French) placket. Chest pocket (sorry, it's where I keep my cell phone). I wish they had more fabric choices (like non-iron). Overall I think it's a great value for MTM.
 

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I think a button down collar looks best without a tie. My next choice for wearing without a tie would would be a narrow pointed collar. But, you should get the one that looks best to you.

I find a pocket useful if I am not wearing braces or a vest, but if you don't, there is no reason to have one.

I have one shirt with two buttons on the cuff. I think it is a more casual look than a single button. I think the gauntlet botton is a nuisance I get my MTM shirts made without one, but LE does not offer that option.

Not much love here it seems for a French placket and I agree with that view. That is the way most sport shirts are made and it does not look right on a dress shirt to me.

I have had a couple of custom shirts made by LE and have been pleased. Good luck.
 

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LE does a very good value "custom" shirt business. I'm not familiar off hand with all of their collar styles, but I'd recommend whatever is their moderate spread. Their widest spread is indeed quite wide, almost a cutaway collar. I'd definitely go with the double button cuffs. They work well, look good, and are rarely seen on shirts of this price, made to order or not. I'd go with the standard placket. Overall it is a really good service. Id recommend ordering one shirt at a time and getting to know their ordering process. The product is good and an excellent price; it make take you a few trial runs to get the exact measurements that suit you. Still, remember that you can get a dozen of these for the price of one shirt off the shelf at Bergdorfs and it seems like it makes pretty good sense.
 

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The wider the collar spread, the more formal it is. Two button cuffs are fine, but with those I prefer to leave out the one of the forearm. Definitely go without a pocket. You should only have pockets on casual shirts. I find that french plackets work best on casual shirts. If you're wearing a tie the packet doesn't matter. But when I wear an open shirt with a sport coat I like the placket. I find it looks more balanced then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the great advice.

I think I will go without pockets, normal placket, two button cuff, and back shoulder pleats (instead of a center back pleat).

The only thing I am unsure of is the collar style. Maybe I will go with the 'contour straight' style ('boardroom' might look a little to big).

Chris
 

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I do not know what you expect from a "custom" program that is priced at a
fraction of better RTW shirts. I have not tried Land's End Custom Shirts but
I do have experience with the Land's End " custom"jeans program and it was
an unqualified failure for me. First of all, it was (is)not really custom, but rather
an attempt to modify standard models to individual customers. For example:
low rise jeans were a certain rise for a certain waist size, not one's individual measurements. I kept one pair of jeans which they finally got right (more or less)
The jeans proceeded to distintergrate in about half the time that my other RTW
jeans showed major wear. In other words, "custom" junk.
 

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The wider the collar spread, the more formal it is. Two button cuffs are fine, but with those I prefer to leave out the one of the forearm. Definitely go without a pocket. You should only have pockets on casual shirts. I find that french plackets work best on casual shirts. If you're wearing a tie the packet doesn't matter. But when I wear an open shirt with a sport coat I like the placket. I find it looks more balanced then.
I completely agree.

In addition, I would second the OP's decision to go with shoulder pleats instead of a centre pleat (seems more practical and appealing to me). I would also opt for a compromise between boardroom and narrow collars. Something in the middle will work in formal or casual situations and be far less limiting to you.
 

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Chris,

Several years ago, about 2002 or so, when this program first came out, I tried it. I was just entering the world of mens' quality clothing. Let me ask you a question. How much are these shirts going to cost you? Does a tailor come and take your measurements or is this a self-measure?

The reason I ask is, the folks at My Tailor can get you into nice MTM shirts, for about the same price. In fact, if you look at their website right now, you can choose from hundreds of shirts under $80 each. My advice is not to use the LE program until you look into a company that specializes in MTM.
 

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The biggest problem I have with LE shirts are the one-button cuffs. As someone with short, skinny arms (32.5 inches on the right and little longer on the left), I prefer having two buttons because it makes longer sleeves fit my arms better. I also like the look of the two buttons.
 

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In my experience...

While more dressy, a spread collar flattens and disappears under a coat unless a tie is worn. A button-down collar doesn't work for dressy occasions. A point collar works with everything, and the LE shirts show particularly well, though the second shirt button is set just a bit high.

Barrel cuffs are fine, but I find the mitre barrel cuff a bit more distinctive. Also consider a couple shirts with French cuffs. They look sharp and will give you a reason to dig out the cuff-links.

Chest pockets are useless except for a fountain pen (which should be inside your coat or on your portfolio). Lose 'em.

I prefer shoulder pleats over a box pleat on the back (esp. good if you have broad and/or strongly-built shoulders).

If you have more than a 6" chest/waist drop, go for the tailored fit.

The French placket is best for me with broadcloth or pinpoint, while the regular placket is best with oxford cloth.

*steps off soapbox*
 

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Above

In my experience...

While more dressy, a spread collar flattens and disappears under a coat unless a tie is worn. A button-down collar doesn't work for dressy occasions. A point collar works with everything, and the LE shirts show particularly well, though the second shirt button is set just a bit high.

Barrel cuffs are fine, but I find the mitre barrel cuff a bit more distinctive. Also consider a couple shirts with French cuffs. They look sharp and will give you a reason to dig out the cuff-links.

Chest pockets are useless except for a fountain pen (which should be inside your coat or on your portfolio). Lose 'em.

I prefer shoulder pleats over a box pleat on the back (esp. good if you have broad and/or strongly-built shoulders).

If you have more than a 6" chest/waist drop, go for the tailored fit.

The French placket is best for me with broadcloth or pinpoint, while the regular placket is best with oxford cloth.

*steps off soapbox*
I agree with most of the statements above, except I don't like a French placket in any situation.

I have several of the Lands End shirts, and I feel that the boardroom and straight collars have only a slight difference, compared to many of the other brands, where the spread is significantly larger.
 

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I choose the spread of my shirt collars to complement the width of my face. Since I'm tall and thin, with a long narrow face, I wear spread (semi-spread) collars on dress shirts and buttondown collars on casual shirts. I think Andy's main page may have an entry on this and I know his "Encyclopedia" does.

I prefer a French cuff for dress shirts and single-button, mitred cuffs for casual shirts but that's all personal preference.

I like the clean look of no pocket and no placket (French placket?) on dress shirts, but choose a pocket and regular placket for casual shirts.

So my dress shirts end up being spread collar, French cuff, no pocket or placket, whereas casual shirts are buttondown collar, single button mitred cuff (when mitred cuffs are offered), regular placket and a pocket. I only buy casual shirts from the LE custom program.

I agree that LE needs more non-iron fabric choices, specifically patterned non-iron fabrics. Every time I send them an email suggesting it, they reply with some bone-headed response that implies they completely misunderstood my suggestion.
 

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Thanks for all the great advice.

I think I will go without pockets, normal placket, two button cuff, and back shoulder pleats (instead of a center back pleat).

The only thing I am unsure of is the collar style. Maybe I will go with the 'contour straight' style ('boardroom' might look a little to big).

Chris
Let us know how you like yours. I ordered one today - I went with barrel cuff, french placket, no pocket, buttondown collar. I've got one other LE custom shirt and my only complaint would be the collar is growing floppy, as mentioned above, which I'm hoping going buttondown will help with this time. I do like the fit, though - it's greay having a shirt that doesn' billow out at the waist at all, even less than OTR fitted shirts.
 

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I just received a custom LE shirt in Ivory Tattersall pinpoint which I think will go well with a knit tie and a tweed jacket. It might also go with my tan Summer suit. The suit is put away and the shirt is already at the laundry and I don't have much ability to picture things. It is much easier when I can physically put them next to each other.

They also have a Brushed Twill in Ivory/Admiral Blue which might go well with a tan suit or even a blue blazer. Does anyone have that shirt?
 

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Let us know how you like yours. I ordered one today - I went with barrel cuff, french placket, no pocket, buttondown collar. I've got one other LE custom shirt and my only complaint would be the collar is growing floppy, as mentioned above, which I'm hoping going buttondown will help with this time. I do like the fit, though - it's great having a shirt that doesn't billow out at the waist at all, even less than OTR fitted shirts.
Just a brief follow-up - the shirt arrived on Monday and the fit is great; the button-down collar helps compared to my previous buy but I like my previous shirt's cloth (white herringbone) much better than the Royal Oxford. I also like the look with no pockets.

Remember the old Grecian formula commercials, where the guy dyes his gray out and his boss thinks he's lost weight? I got a couple of "you look really sharp today" comments when wearing it. Though no one mentioned the shirt, it was the only thing new I was wearing.*

I've ordered 2 more.

*Similar odd effect. I've got a pair of black captoes no one ever mentions, and a pair of the exact same shoe in brown always gets compliments.:confused:
 
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