July 7.
The side seams have now been ripped and resewn as mentioned would be done, using a chart containing measurements from a good fitting tweed bought years ago. Basted only. Much cloth lost directly beneath arms, 2 1/2 inches each, then tapering to waist where 1 3/4" is lost and straight down from there.
Misspoke earlier saying the arms were off for shoulder narrowing. They're not. Yet. Though the arm pit has been freed in order to take in the large amount mentioned. This ups the arm hole considerably. Am still toying with whether or not to reduce the shoulders (19" current, but appear wider). Reduce or not, they will be rebuilt.
Take a stare at what's below and I'll point out what's happening after.
View attachment 46507
When I mentioned I added two buttons above the existing two you may have expected the jacket to close at about the tie knot. Notice it doesn't, because the existing buttoning points (okay, stance) were exceeding low. Note the lapel reduction, into something resembling 1900, and that the Armani-esque gorge gets less notice because of it. The lapel points in pic are pinned, but will be tacked when finished. The top button is out of line and will be moved. The wasp waist (which stays) is made more so by the broad shoulders (which I've decided just now looking at this pic with you, won't stay. Arms off!).
A better pic of the back, with the arm pits open and the belt roughly pinned in place. At the cuff of the left sleeve a trial gauntlet is pinned in place.
View attachment 46511
