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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone post a close up of a forearm with proper shirt and jacket sleeves. I seem to be the only one at work who thinks shirt sleeves should go to the top of the last thumb bone, and jacket sleeves 1/4" above that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
And what about "casual sleeve length"? One of the guys at work says that there are formal lengths (the one this forum largely agrees on) and then business and casual lengths with casual being less than an inch above the middle thumb knuckle. Is that his Men's Warehouse training talking or is he anywhere close to right?
 

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And this looks pretty good, too.

I seem to recall reading that JFK preferred a little less linen to show than that specified by the old saw. What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How about a picture where I can see the anatomy of the hand a little better. I have thinner hands so a lot of cuffs don't simply stop at the top of my hand and I haven't had any shortened yet. So if I can see a picture even just of a hand with a line for each the shirt and jacket that might help.

My particular problem is that my left arm is probably a half inch shorter so the suit that I just had the arms shortened on shows about 1/8th inch on the right and, well, quite a bit more on the left. That is with larger french cuffs though.
 

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How about a picture where I can see the anatomy of the hand a little better. I have thinner hands so a lot of cuffs don't simply stop at the top of my hand and I haven't had any shortened yet. So if I can see a picture even just of a hand with a line for each the shirt and jacket that might help.

My particular problem is that my left arm is probably a half inch shorter so the suit that I just had the arms shortened on shows about 1/8th inch on the right and, well, quite a bit more on the left. That is with larger french cuffs though.
You have to get the shirts tailored correctly before altering the jacket.

I seem to recall an illustration about this somewhere but I can't find it now. Or, you could look it up in the books I mentioned.
 

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The factor people often forget about, in my opinion, is the tightness of shirt cuffs. RTW with just one sleeve button (not adjustable) will often fall pretty low, and many will blame it on the sleeve length. It's not the sleeve length, as you need that slack in order to keep the cuffs from riding up. More often than not I have to add the extra buttons on barrel cuffs like this so that I get proper cuff showing when arms are at rest (and not the whole darn cuff!). The problem comes with double cuffs on RTW... they tend to slide down pretty far and there's almost no way to combat it.
 

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The following photo and quote is directly from The Sartorialist blogsite, so I claim no ownership rights to any creative material, but I believe this is perfect for this post.

"This is Dario, he works at Cesare Attolini. one of the top sartorial clothiers in the world.
When I look at this photo the first thing I notice is the perfect jacket/sleeve cuff ratio but the second thing (and maybe more subtle but equally important) is the perfect length of the shirt sleeve itself.
Similar to what we do to pants, most men in America wear their shirts sleeves with way too much extra length in the arms.
If you notice Dario's sleeves hits right at the base of his wrist without having the shirt cuff buttoned.
I know a couple of guys in New York that like to do the "cuffs unbuttoned thing" but they wear the sleeves too long so it makes them look like the shirt doesn't fit correctly."
https://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/search/label/Men Milan
 

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If you notice Dario's sleeves hits right at the base of his wrist without having the shirt cuff buttoned.
I know a couple of guys in New York that like to do the "cuffs unbuttoned thing" but they wear the sleeves too long so it makes them look like the shirt doesn't fit correctly."
https://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/search/label/Men Milan
How can you tell his cuffs are unbuttoned? I have such thin wrists that my cuffs look about like that even when buttoned. I've always wondered about this, is there a correct sizing for cuff diameter? I have plenty of room to take my shirts on and off while the cuffs are still buttoned - the only time my cuffs are unbuttoned is to roll up my sleeves.
 

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H

My particular problem is that my left arm is probably a half inch shorter so the suit that I just had the arms shortened on shows about 1/8th inch on the right and, well, quite a bit more on the left. That is with larger french cuffs though.
Have them altered to different lengths- there is no requirement for them to be the same!
 

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How can you tell his cuffs are unbuttoned? I have such thin wrists that my cuffs look about like that even when buttoned. I've always wondered about this, is there a correct sizing for cuff diameter? I have plenty of room to take my shirts on and off while the cuffs are still buttoned - the only time my cuffs are unbuttoned is to roll up my sleeves.
As I mentioned, I did not write the text accompanying the photo. That comes from the Sartorialist Blog. But if you click the link provided, there is another picture underneath the one I showed of the same gentleman's unbuttoned sleeve. Regarding your question, if you have 2-button cuffs, have you tried usining the one that provides a tighter fit? I think cuff circumference is a preference, so long as you show some cuff at the end of your jacket sleeve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
As I mentioned, I did not write the text accompanying the photo. That comes from the Sartorialist Blog. But if you click the link provided, there is another picture underneath the one I showed of the same gentleman's unbuttoned sleeve. Regarding your question, if you have 2-button cuffs, have you tried usining the one that provides a tighter fit? I think cuff circumference is a preference, so long as you show some cuff at the end of your jacket sleeve.
Even with the tight button my left hand can, though not easily, fit all the way through the cuff. I have narrow wrists and hands which is probably a major contributor to this problem.

Here are a couple of pictures that I just took after throwing it on.




From these it looks like the sleeves are "even" but they need to come up more. It doesn't however show the shirt sleeve problem. I had my brother measure my arms and they came to 31" and 30 1/2" He might have measured a little short due to the half inch extra on the end of the tape but it is still too short for a 32/33 sleeve shirt. A local menswear shop said they alter shirt sleeves for $10 so I'll probably bring a shirt or two in.

Of course the guy with the "casual length" information said don't worry about it because the only people who will notice are retentive people like me and him.

Any other comments on the suit are welcome.
 
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