[Michael1025]

Hello all - looking for some advice on jacket length with a few examples below. For years I wore a 40S (at about 5'6 it's what was always recommended), but over time, when looking in pictures, I grew to dislike the look of these jackets on myself...they just seemed to look "stubby."

After researching in these forums and checking the rules, I found that these jackets really didn't cover my behind with the extra 1/2 inch of fabric after that people recommend - they just barely covered my behind. For reference, here's a look at that jacket:

From the side:

After some discussion from my tailor, I switched my jackets to a 40R. These fully cover my behind with a little fabric to spare. Here are two examples. The first is a 40R in the Brooks Brothers Madison cut, which is clearly longer than the 40R in a Fitzgerald cut when hung next to each other in the closet:

The last one is the 40R in the Fitzgerald, which sits somewhere in between:

Thoughts on the fits above? Are the 40R's too long, and should I have stuck with the 40S (despite my discomfort)? Any noticeable difference between the 40R Madison and the 40R Fitzgerald on length, and would you recommend one over the other?

Help is appreciated...I must have a dozen jackets hanging in my closet mixed between these three sizes / cuts...it's driving me a bit batty figuring out which is right

 

[CuffDaddy]

I think the reason the first looks "stubby" (and I agree) is that the maker appears to simply have lopped off some length at the bottom without adjusting any other proportions. It looks to me as though the buttoning point is in precisely the same location; I don't think there's enough jacket below the button on the top one. (JMHO, of course.) As it stands now, I think the "S" jacket looks a bit off, although it may be a better overall length for you.

Edited to add: Rambler is not wrong. These are minor points. You look presentable in either. I simply assumed you wanted to indulge in full-on OCD regarding a couple of articles of clothing.

 

[The Rambler]

obsessing about issues like this can drive you batty. Once highly charged words such as "stubby" enter the interior monologue you can lose touch with reality entirely. So you are right to seek help. Step away from the mirror, sir. Hang up that jacket. The short looks fine. The reg is ok, but maybe a little long, so if anything it makes you look shorter. Don't think about it any more, and in time you will forget the entire issue.

 

[Michael1025]

Rambler - thanks for the kind words. The million dollar question, though - would you put the 40R's back in the closet and not keep them in regular rotation? What size would you buy next?

Edit: And, CuffDaddy - your feedback is appreciated as well. Full-on clothing OCD is one of my favorite pastimes

 

[jwa_jwa_jwa]

I was told many years ago that the 42 S was my size and just recently learned about the proper jacket fit. I tried a 42 R and had a similar experience to yours, I liked the way the R looked on me better.
My personal tailor insisted that my size was a 42 R while the sa at BB told me I was "in between" sizes. With the S, I too felt like it was a little stubby and short. But also, the jackets did not leave much room in the back as I understood the fit to be.
Suffice it to say, I have now switched to buying the Regular fit and there's no looking back.

 

[Michael1025]

Jwa - that was almost word-for-word my experience...I wonder if that's their stock answer at BB

 

[DaveS]

I'm just 5' 7" myself. I had a 44R "cut down" by simply removing length from the bottom. As Cuff points out, it left the proportions of the jacket WAY off, with the button point too low, pockets too low, and so on. Add to that the fact that the waist of any 44 has to be taken in quite a bit for me, and you've got a truly weird look in my opinion.

I've found that the 44S, especially in a ventless jacket (typically double-breasted) is about the only thing that works without extensive, and therefore damaging, alterations. For single-breasted, two button (I think I'm too short to wear three button well), I'm going to either have to put 4 more inches on my waist, or go to MTM or bespoke.

Michael, my personal opinion is that the 40S looks just right, and the 40R just a bit long, but that's just my 2 cents. Most people won't pick up on the difference when looking at you, I think.

 

[The Rambler]

Rambler - thanks for the kind words. The million dollar question, though - would you put the 40R's back in the closet and not keep them in regular rotation? What size would you buy next?

Edit: And, CuffDaddy - your feedback is appreciated as well. Full-on clothing OCD is one of my favorite pastimes

Michael, you can wear both, I think. Time will tell. As for the future, jacket lengths are not standardized. Many are cut on the short side currently, it's just a style thing, and with them, the reg might be ok, though I think in general 5'6'' is solidly in the short range.

I'm just teasing about the obsession thing, of course. I suspect that most forumites fall prey to it from time to time. I know I do.

 

[Bjorn]

I like the S. The R needs an inch off.

I think you should stick with S. Or perhaps go with mtm.

 

[Michael1025]

Kind of wishing I hadn't bought four of the R jackets last year...

 

[CuffDaddy]

Michael, for what it's worth, it doesn't look much as though anything changes between the S and R except the overall length. If that's the case, you could have an alterations tailor make the R's into S's by trimming off a bit. (I suppose the lining of the jacket pockets might need to be re-done, but that's also do-able.)

You might try splitting the difference between the R and the S while you're at it.

 

[Bjorn]

You can just take a bit off the R:s. when I find jackets that are R that I like, that's what I do. It's not a terribly expensive alteration.

 

[Michael1025]

Wouldn't that un-balance the jackets a bit?

 

[CuffDaddy]

Michael, I don't think that's what "balance" means in the context of jackets (as I understand it, that term is more about the relative proportions of the front/back and left/right of the jacket and how it sits on the shoulders). That said, yes, it will affect the proportions of the jacket. But it looks to me as though the S has the same proportions as you would achieve. Therefore, if you are filled with regret from buying R's, it looks to me as though you can make them S's for your purposes.

In the long run, I think the solution is to find a jacket with a slightly higher buttoning point. Or have them made that way.

 

[Bjorn]

Too long is worse than half an inch too low buttoning point IMO. For shorter guys, having a jacket that is long is way worse than both low buttoning point and the pockets sitting a tad lower. I'm a little short myself. But I would go with an S or at least get the R shortened.

But the best is of course a jacket correctly made to be just right for you. By the number of suits you seem to buy, perhaps you could step up to mtm?

 

[jwa_jwa_jwa]

Jwa - that was almost word-for-word my experience...I wonder if that's their stock answer at BB

:aportnoy:

 

[Michael1025]

Thanks for the advice, I think it's worth trying out shortening on one of the jackets. Anyone know a good tailor in Central CT?

 

[Kelorth]

Michael, try different vendors to see if it's you or BB. Maybe step-up to Ralph Lauren or JPress and step-down to JAB. See if the you still have the same problems. Could be the way BB makes their suits that's the problem.

 

[arkirshner]

Rambler's comments are directly on point. A size is just one maker's designation. What actually matters is the distance between the base of the collar in the rear of the jacket and the hem. This will vary maker to maker, and as to each maker from model to model. For future purchases it would very valuable for you to know your optimum collar to hem measurement and measure each prospective purchase.

Unless you are a committed unpadded natural shoulder man you might look into shoulder pads to raise the height of the R jackets a bit. Sometimes even a 1/4 inch can make a real visual difference.

 

[Jovan]

Don't go back to a 40S with BB. Both models of 40R from them look fine length wise AND show a half inch of shirt cuff without alterations. That's a winner in my book.

Yes, you could go a little shorter. I'd just be worried about throwing off the proportions by getting such an alteration.