I note J. Press suits are on sale. As I abandon the Turnbull & Asser look and return to the trad of my youth, what do you recommend for two new suits? I am considering a dark blue and a grey, but do not know the difference between the three grades noted in the web site. Am I on the right track? Which of the three is the consensus choice, or should I look elsewhere? (My wife likes the BB Madison line, also on sale, but I see darts and a fitted look.) Thank you for your help.