It's TWEED Season!

581682 Views 7558 Replies 115 Participants Last post by Oldsarge, 1 mo ago

Flanderian

Discussion Starter · May 29, 2016

4

With the temperature in the shade at 93F, and a dew point of 70F, naturally, thoughts turn to tweed! Not to wear of course, but rather to aid in envisioning a sublime season of crisp breezes, cool dark shade and gentle late afternoon light.

Not necessarily Flanderian recommended, but rather some provocative and thought provoking ensembles featuring lovely tweeds.

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2016/05/tweed-more-tweed-2.html

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Adriel Rowley

· #80 · Sep 19, 2018

Flanderian said:

Wow! :amazing:That is a great looking tweed, love the blue and the check. Looks even better as a suit. Too bad seems a one off, going to the store leads to a dead page.

g3org3y said:

What is this piece of fabric held with two buttons for?

Flanderian said:
Say, what!?!? irate:

Oh my! This is amazing, great colors and interesting pattern. Think this be a tad too bold to wear as a suit.

Flanderian said:

Another great color combination. Bet look great on me with my red hair, blue eyes, and cream skin tone (I'm not milk white). Where you find? Thanks.

Adriel Rowley

· #81 · Sep 19, 2018

2

Here is my contribution to the thread.

Is there a name for the dark grey and white weave tweed?

I just happened on this thread and my first Harris Tweed came this Sunday 16 August. Long story short, paid $5 with shipping as has a couple moth holes to be repaired (already posted in another thread the details).

Thought it was a blue based on the pictures, glad it wasn't as would have never bought heather purple thinking wouldn't look good, but think it looks smashing. Thus why willing to get it repaired as a lot of the vintage Harris Tweeds are NLA.

Now feeling and seeing Harris Tweed in person, I am addicted!

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Adriel Rowley

· #85 · Sep 19, 2018

Repington said:
The piece of fabric referred to above is, I believe, a gorget to be worn in inclement weather with the jacket's collar turned up.

Thank you for the information. Thought it was to hold the lapel closed, but never one for making assumptions. Tried searching for the word, but came up with a piece of armor.

Adriel Rowley

· #86 · Sep 19, 2018

orange fury said:
Throat latch- there will be a button on the underside of the lapel so you can flip the collar up and fasten it at the throat in rainy or cold weather. I have one jacket with it, but have never actually used it.

I would, but I run cold.

orange fury said:
Regarding tweed, it's a whole diffeeent world once you start getting into different fabric mills and styles. Harris, Moon, Shetland, donegal (with the donegal mist/donegal dew variations), etc. I have quite a few HT jackets, but one of my favorite tweeds has become an unlined J Crew 3/2 made with Moon fabric

Oh yes, Opa has a tweed sport coat I left because didn't know about reweaving and loved the look years ago. Then Rafael of the Gentlemen's Gazette put out a presentation on tweed and got even stronger. Been looking since for the right price on vintage in a unique color.

Is there a thread covering these additional tweeds? I know of just Donegal without the variations and you mean Abraham Moon? If so, amazing color, though not seeing any other differences.

I been on the lookout for Shetland and Barleycorn, hard to find. Donegal seems to be the most expensive for some reason.

Do have my eye on some wonderful barleycorn fabric, just wanted to think it over before went for it.

Adriel Rowley

· #88 · Sep 19, 2018

Fading Fast said:
Agree completely. I own three and just bought my fourth (it came yesterday). For the money, they are outstanding value and great knock-around sport coats. I say that, but my oldest one is approaching ten years, still looks great and has taken a beating.

These are not of the quality of the higher-end ones in this thread, but for the money (I bought this recent one on one of the regularly occurring J.Crew sale, so I paid $203 all in) they are incredible value.

Since, I live in the city and am not trekking in the Highlands of Scotland, I am usually just doing normal city things which means I'm indoors more than outdoors. Hence, having an unlined tweed is great - it's a wonderful compromise that lets me wear tweed without boiling inside.

My knock about for over ten years has been a corduroy unstructured sport coat until got monotonous wearing it every week (no signs of wear), which led to me looking for other options. Good point on tweed being a good alternative, now you just made it worse giving another excuse to be on the lookout for tweed.

Adriel Rowley

· #90 · Sep 19, 2018

Fading Fast said:
Think of this as a gateway tweed, for ~$200 you can try your first one - a decent, unlined Tweed from a respected mill:

https://www.jcrew.com/p/mens_catego...eed/C8778?color_name=classic-grey-herringbone

Thank you for the information, appreciated. :beer: Plus, know now what is meant by Moon Tweed.

Your sure my Harris Tweed wasn't the gateway?

Hard to tell what color the rust is, should be brighter than what the picture shows.

Adriel Rowley

· #93 · Sep 19, 2018

Fading Fast said:
Moon is the name of a mill (so its like Harris in that it describes the manufacturer, but it's one company not a region/coop/gov't defined process like Harris is): https://www.moons.co.uk

https://www.moons.co.uk

Thank you for the clarification. My goodness there is a lot of fabrics! :O

The peppermint is almost a dead ringer for the 1930 herringbone long coat that I am now custodian of, though online color is different than a swatch.

Fading Fast said:
Sorry, thought you didn't own any tweed - my bad.

Please don't. I was being playful, didn't cross my mind the post get lost. I was thinking along the drug theme that seemed to be happening, you know Harris might not get you hooked, but Moon will. Maybe the issue is I grew up on British humor...

(Being silly face.)

Fading Fast said:
I'd call and talk to J.Crew about the color as on-line color can be quite off even through no fault of the company. The black-and-white one I bought is a bit darker than it appeared on my screen (close, but if you are looking for a very specific tone and shade, I'd call first - they are very helpful).

Yep, know about RGB registration, especially on the PC I am using a tele (monitor quit and the tele was free) I can see a difference from the Macintosh laptop (my preferred machine and longest lived laptop at about five and a half). Good to know there are still companies out there with great customer service, almost every first purchase I contact the company to be sure of the details, more efficient (and if poor customer service I don't proceed).

Cheers! :beer:

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Adriel Rowley

· #95 · Sep 19, 2018

Man this is fun chatting with someone on this rainy and gloomy day here in the desert.

Fading Fast said:
I was using it as a metaphor, but in truth, I don't really know anything about the drug culture (not judging, just not my thing), but whatever the ultima thule of drugs is, Harris would be the Tweed equivalent.

Laugh my arse off! Just went from bad to worse. I give up, the joke just isn't going. Different strokes for different folks.

But, to be clear, all I know is from when in the fifth grade, we had to take this anti-drug course, thus why I know gateway. Also, they claimed Mary Jane was the gateway drug, though for some it's the hard stuff. I wouldn't know, never used.

Harris was in Harris Tweed. Moon, as in Moon fabrics, BTW.

Fading Fast said:
J.Crew - if its sizing and style works for you - is a surprising gem of a company. I've called and they've "pulled" the item for me and walked over to the window to describe the color/tone/etc. That said, they don't always have access to all the clothes, but in those cases, they'll call someone who does and try to give you as much color (tee-hee) as they can.

Thank you for all this education, much appreciated. Sure helps to know to ask for a pull if can't describe.

What you mean style? Mine say is classic, in that I wear a buttoned shirt, pants without rips/holes, and dress shoes or boots (prefer my chelsea boots). I prefer a trim European fit over the American bag. 6'-2", 165 pounds on a bad day, triangular body shape (17.5" shoulder, 33" waist, 36" hips), with long legs (about 33" inseam depending on rise and break).

What does "tee-hee" mean?

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Adriel Rowley

· #102 · Sep 20, 2018

Flanderian said:
Universally reviled, 10 years ago I could have worn this!

View attachment 24465

Would look good here -

Why 10 years ago and not now?

Not sure about the ascot in gold weather, you loose a lot of heat out of the open collar.

Like the vest, except the low opening. Be better on someone needing help with a gut.

Adriel Rowley

· #108 · Sep 20, 2018

orange fury said:
On Moon fabrics:
I'm personally just a big fan of the feel and quality of fabrics that come out of Moon. It's a thick tweed (so my unlined jacket is still heavy and warm), but it's softer than Harris Tweed. My J Crew jacket:

Thank you for the information, appreciated. Looks quality, looks like the lapel buttonhole is nicely done.

orange fury said:
On barleycorn:
Barleycorn is a wonderful pattern that seems to be pretty underutilized- I guess manufacturers think herringbone is easier to sell. This is a NOS (with tags!) Corbin jacket I picked up several years ago with a combination pattern that includes barleycorn. One of my best fitting jackets, and one of my favorites:

I actually kept the tags after cutting them off, because it's not every day you find an older jacket like this with the tags still on.

And if anyone wants to go down the "not Trad! Darts/2 buttons/lack of patch pockets is of the sartorial devil!" road- couldn't give less of a damn.

I am one who likes to be unique, though now as I mature, learn needs to be subtle. Because Barleycorn is a nice, pleasing pattern which is unique, there lies my interest. Here is the one mentioned earlier.

That jacket is sure interesting using two weaves. Nice score on NOS! I too would save the tags.

My '40s/early '50s DB is darted, so who says not traditional?

Besides, wear what makes you feel good so you look good, rather than wear what others want you to wear. That's why we wear sport jackets and suits when others don't.

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Adriel Rowley

· #109 · Sep 20, 2018

orange fury said:
Harris tweed was what got me into tweed. For Adrian's benefit- several years ago, Nick Wooster was made the creative director for JC Penney, and suddenly (for a short time) they had all of these trad and preppy staples available under their Stanford line, including Harris tweed jackets. The patterns were actually pretty unique and looked great- plus, they went on deep discount within a couple months of being released. I still have 2 of the jackets (sold my b/w herringbone)- this kicked it all off for me.

Nice!

BTW, the name is actually Adriel. Just trying to help, don't mind so long as not called late to dinner.

How long ago was JC Penny doing that?

How are those Standford in quality?

I have seen a couple tweeds but wasn't sure enough to consider.

Adriel Rowley

· #110 · Sep 20, 2018

Fading Fast said:
I just bought my fourth J.Crew-Moon sport coat as, like you, I love them - well made and at a great price. Literally, just spent a half hour at the tailor this morning getting my most recent purchase altered.

Wow, you certainly are a follower. Are they all tweeds?

Ever have the end of year clearance? That's when I prefer to make my store purchases.

Are you going to show us after the alterations if a tweed?

Fading Fast said:
That Corbin sport coat is awesome. I agree with your comments on barleycorn - a great pattern that - like so many great patterns - seems to have all but disappeared. I had a dark-olive-barleycorn tweed a few decades ago that was my regular use one for years.

Did you see the fabric I posted a picture of? Maybe an option for you.

You like the color green? Seems not too common color for folks to love and harder to find in clothing especially cardigans (never seen).

Adriel Rowley

· #115 · Sep 21, 2018

Fading Fast said:
I've bought my J.Crew sport coats over a decade and every single one on a meaningful sale (picked up one on a "close out" rack for $99* - actually, my girlfriend found it for me that way - she said it was the last one in the store and just happened to be my size). It's no great skill as J.Crew has a lot of sales, so I've never done worse than 30% off and usually better.

Thank you for the information, appreciated. Will keep my eyes out.

Fading Fast said:
I'll check for accuracy later, but from memory, in J.Crew, I have four or five tweeds (an earlier one doesn't say Moon on it) plus a silk-cotton one (good for the "shoulder" seasons), a linen one and a cotton one for the summer. I'll gladly post pics when it comes back (s/b ready on 10/1 assuming it doesn't need more tweaks).

Right now was more looking to fill out the basics, though started thinking about non-wool especially now the weather is cooling, so appreciate knowing they also have warmer weather options.

Fading Fast said:
I liked the fabric you showed, but doesn't fit my style today which is very grey-color driven with stronger colors being brought in as accents in shirts, ties or sweaters. My sport coats and suits are all low-key and almost all in the grey family. When I was younger, I wore a lot more color.

Ah, okay. I am 31, but sometime in the past put off by my flashy shiny ties (my family doesn't understand the difference between silk and polyester), enjoy grey, but also enjoy some color now and then. A balance and being situationally aware.

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Adriel Rowley

· #117 · Sep 21, 2018

orange fury said:
J Crew does actually seem to do pretty great one-off jackets (Ir, not their usual suit fare). I have a brown corduroy jacket and navy velvet shawl collar DJ from them that are both wonderful.

I bought a couple fused odd jackets, never again. So I am even more particular on suits. Good to know J Crew odd jackets are the only ones which are worth purchase, appreciated.

orange fury said:
Gah, sorry bud, autocorrect strikes again lol.

Ah, okay. I had that until added it to the dictionary, so get it.

orange fury said:
They were good jackets- they only did a couple patterns, but the fabric was good heavy Harris Tweed. Some people had complaints that it was only two button/darted/had a strong shoulder/was made overseas/had "poor" construction, but let's be honest. It's JC Penney, and people were comparing it to jackets that were 3-4x the price from Ben Silver.

It wasn't necessarily a great value at $300 retail, but they were immediately eligible for the 50-60% off coupons JCP regularly does. My only complaint was that the smallest size they had was a 40R and I'm a 38R, but it fit well enough.

Great information! As if one sees on on eBay, my guess be no more than $50 (1/3 of purchase price).

Bet price also was a factor why didn't last, not enough margin.

orange fury said:
Not JCP/Stanford, this is a vintage Lands End jacket:[/ATTACH]

Wow! That is great looking. Did see another Lands End tweed a while back on eBay, but didn't give me the fizz, so passed. But that one sure does.

BTW, true Lands End (not when sold in the department store) have bought shirts, seems to be good quality.

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Adriel Rowley

· #118 · Sep 21, 2018

FLMike said:
He said, "not Trad", not "not traditional". There is actually a big difference in meaning on AAAC.

Ah, yes, missed that. Think some ways tend to dress a little Trad, though further research is needed.

Adriel Rowley

· #120 · Sep 21, 2018 (Edited)

orange fury said:
Check out the WAYWT thread on the Trad board for ideas about the style. Short answer (and very broad generalizations):
Trad- sack suits (3/2, no darts), LWB's, ocbds. 1950's/early 60's businessman.

Ivy- chinos, 3/2 sack blazers, ocbds, Shetland sweaters, penny loafers. What an Ivy League college student would wear in the 50's and 60's (pre hippy)

Preppy- similar to Ivy, but louder colors/patterns (madras and pastel chinos). Once you move into the 80's/90's, Patagonia Snap T's and New Balance 990 Series make appearances (though this is also seen as more "fratty")

There's a bunch of subsets to these as well(southern trad can be different from trad, "go to hell" is a more aggressive version of preppy, etc), and people will argue on here ad infinitum about details and what is or isn't trad. As for me, I tend to skew much more preppy/GTH, but pull elements from each. People can label it whatever they want, but I wear what I like.

Thank you for the great synopsis and appreciate the correction.

Totally agree, wear what you like.

Adriel Rowley

· #123 · Sep 22, 2018

Anyone happen to know what this weave pattern is? Picture from eBay, best can do.

No shoulder size so waiting back. Sorely temped at $23 all in (not sure what a good price for used Harris Tweed is).

Down the slippery slope I go...

Thank y'all in advance. :beer:

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Adriel Rowley

· #126 · Sep 22, 2018

FLMike said:
Tweed in Arizona? That slope must be slippery with sweat.

You asked, you shall receive.

I run a tad cold, anything under 75*F is starting to get cool. I wear thermal underwear, long shirts, and long pants all year and haven't had AC in a vehical for about four years. I have no problem wearing my heavy wool DB suit in Summer, most suits I wear with a sweater, light in Summer and heavy in Winter. Greatest need for dressing warm is going to Church, only when Summer do I forgo the overcoat wearing inside, just the suit and sweater as mentioned. Thus, why on the hunt to find alternatives to the corduroy jacket I was wearing every Sunday. My thyroid is fine, just inherited. My Great Uncle and his Daughter also run cold, even have a picture of him wearing long sleeves and long pants amongst those in short shirts and short pants.

Further, we here outside the urban dense core don't have urban heat island, so about October through May we have cool nights being the desert. I have been out here in Mesa since 2012 and had two winters where got into the 20s, even had snow one day (sadly in a lecture hall with no windows so missed it, wasn't until I was 28 got to be in falling snow).

I am not the only one wearing tweed here, seen a couple from here on eBay, the one I am considering is.

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Adriel Rowley

· #130 · Sep 22, 2018

Peak and Pine said:
Adriel, I think your pic's of a waffle weave or a basket weave. @matts will know. Be aware, and you may already know this, that Harris is a manufacturer of cloth not of clothing, usually, so it's possible to get Harris Tweed cloth in a poorly put-together jacket. Though I believe that rare. $23 is a very good price for an on-line Harris purchase; I hear tell second-hand shops are over-run with them, maybe at a better price.

Liked your post regarding woolens in Arizona. I too wear long johns year round. And a night cap in bed in the winter. Coldest it got here at the Peakery last winter was 27°. Inside my upstairs bedroom. Honest.

And if old enough, might not be true Harris Tweed per the modern rules.

I look at the label and style. If feels vintage, more willing to risk as in general find vintage is better quality (labor rates were much lower so hand work cost less).

I decided to go to a Goodwill for their half price day and there was about five tweeds, including a Stanford. I bought one, will post when not waiting for the cab to take us to get groceries. Was quite surprised how many considering in not the most well of area and not everyone enjoys the warm weather.

Coldest got in my home was low 40s as had the windows open not knowing was going to get that low and felt like Hans in the Star Wars scene where he is frozen.

Cheers and update later.

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Adriel Rowley

· #131 · Sep 22, 2018

4

Here is the tweed jacket I purchased today, cost a whole $4 from Goodwill being half price.

Thick and rough, but not as rough as my Harris Tweed. I know not a perfect fit, liked the pattern too much. Not a big deal as can take it in myself.

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