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Is full canvass always better than half canvas?

27K views 37 replies 14 participants last post by  Peak and Pine  
The canvas is the foundation of the coat front. It keeps it pristine. An old house without a foundation the ground underneath it can shift. Frost heave can lift and lower rocks the house is sitting on. Post rot. Houses like that the eve line goes up and down. The floors are not level. The roof line isn't straight and level and horizontal. Houses with a good foundation don't have these problems and last longer. A coat with half a foundation....?
 
The canvas is the foundation of the coat front. It keeps it pristine. An old house without a foundation the ground underneath it can shift. Frost heave can lift and lower rocks the house is sitting on. Post rot. Houses like that the eve line goes up and down. The floors are not level. The roof line isn't straight and level and horizontal. Houses with a good foundation don't have these problems and last longer. A coat with half a foundation....?
 
Fusing is chemicals. I wonder how long that last. Not to mention cleaning chemicals may change.
When the foundation is of canvas then it can be of several kinds, and put in at different angles and of different weights. If good quality it will last for a very long time. You can also press shape into them. Any fuse in the canvas or directly on to the cloth is unshapeable except by cuts. Non-fuse and non-man-made thread/yarn can be shaped with a hot iron and water and weight to create desirable shape and thread is also used for that some parts of the make up, not to mention tape made of linen or cotton. The thread and tape actually help hold the shape. All of this takes time, which adds up to money. Attaching it to the coat front is a trick, too. If done properly you get what you pay for. This is bench made and can be cheaper in the long run. Unless you are rich (whatever that means) you will probably design a garment, and fit it to your body, so it can be worn for decades. A good tailor can assist in designing the coat. On a flat pattern locating pockets, waistlines, buttons, etc. Can be perfectly places. Cut the cloth and wrap that cloth around the person and, maybe those items should be placed elsewhere. On your body maybe the pocket flaps look better narrower or wider. A good tailor wants to optimize the appearance of the customer. Store bought leaves very little ability to change. Which includes mtm. Bench made starts from. And everything is added.
 
Modern technology has certainly gotten better. But I don't think it can achieve what some bench tailors could do that I saw in the past.
Some mass produce companies have certainly hired true artist that produced marvelous looking garments.
Canvas has its problems. But, fuse also has its limitations, yet.
There are certainly varianing artistic skills among tailors from none to top.
Anyway, I'm not against progress.
 
No doubt the fuse today is far better than the past. And the better coats would have better fuse today. The stretching and shrinking of the cloth to create contours for the body and fuse, how does that work? Is it possible?