[KBAnthis]

I recently purchased Stanley Hosteks Book about Mens Custom Tailored Pants, and I am searching for another book that show the steps with photographs. The book shows some pictures but I would more benefit from a simple guide with photographs and not pictures. The book is just not adequate for an amateur. I am looking for a step by step guide, With no experience needed to start. I have yet to even purchase a pattern to study it, and may if it is recommended. I am interested in making my own pattern. All suggestions appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

[winghus]

https://www.amazon.com/Making-Trous...X93ZG39935E&psc=1&refRID=FNKX0483TX93ZG39935E

 

[KBAnthis]

Thank you for the eply. From that book is where I learned of Stanley Hosteks book. I also feel it is not adequate in making a pair of mens pants from start to finish. It does include some photographs though as well as online content. None the less I must find a better book to purchase or some type of guide to make mens pants from start to finish.

 

[FiscalDean]

Thank you for the eply. From that book is where I learned of Stanley Hosteks book. I also feel it is not adequate in making a pair of mens pants from start to finish. It does include some photographs though as well as online content. None the less I must find a better book to purchase or some type of guide to make mens pants from start to finish.

You may want to try Classic Tailoring Techniques by Roberto Cabrera. While the book deals with tailoring a suit, the section on trousers is quite good.

 

[Flanderian]

You may want to try Classic Tailoring Techniques by Roberto Cabrera. While the book deals with tailoring a suit, the section on trousers is quite good.

+1!

 

[cosmotoast]

Believe it or not, a helpful tip for truly understanding trouser patterns is to buy name brand pants from Goodwill from several makers. Try them on, photograph yourself wearing them then unstitch them lay the patterns flat and study how they are porpotioned

 

[16412]

Clarence Poulin wrote a book about tailoring.
Another book is by Jane Rinehart.
Stanley Hostek is kind of a hard task master.
Roberto Cabrera has some good techniques.
There is certainly no one way of doing it all, and these have all learned from real tailors.
Sometimes drawings are better than photos. It depends on how well it is drawn. How well it illustrates what needs to be seen.
Does any book have absolute clarity all the way through?
A couple of websites/forums
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php

 

[KBAnthis]

I have some pants that I wear currently, but they are a waist size of 50. I am at about a 36- 35 waist or so, I don't really see going lower comfortably. I liked the idea of high rise pants so I bought a size 50 and have folded the pleats in on themselves and wear them as is. I really enjoy the large airiness and the high rise. I have made my own pattern to match this idea, but not sure how it will work. I am going to try and find some cheap scrap cotton fabric to make a trial pair from my pattern I made.

 

[eagle2250]

^^
:icon_scratch::icon_scratch::icon_scratch: Huh?

 

[KBAnthis]

I meant not going lower then 36 waist though I could, it was off the rack size 50, as I am tall I not wear a side 36 off the rack, do for high rise I got a large pair

 

[Peak and Pine]

^

This is the second time you've posted about wearing size 50 pants with a 36 waist and I told you this is foolishness. I also told you that buying humungus waisted pants is not how you make a medium rise into a high rise. You add fabric at the fork (crotch) in the form of a wedge at the beginning of each inseam. Did you not see that? (Okay, I took it down after a couple of hours, I do that when advice is sought and the seeker can't bother to respond.)

I think that making clothes from scratch is best left to the Chinese assembly line worker, especially pants. Are you aware of how much work and expertise it would take to make a fifty-dollar pair of Levis by hand, and the end product wouldn't hold a candle to what Straus's guys come up with. Bespoke dress clothing though is another thing altogether, a boring thing, the making of, to me who has never tried it and snooze just thinking about it, but it's an art and a hand-tailored full garment can be something to behold. I suggest you leave the diry work of making your own khakis to Dewy Dockers and apply your soon-to-be-learned talents to the act of remaking them in your own image. That's what I would do, did, still do, done some more, continue to, never finished, enjoy, do well, worth it...but never from scratch.

 

[Matt S]

I also told you that buying humungus waisted pants is not how you make a medium rise into a high rise. You add fabric at the fork (crotch) in the form of a wedge at the beginning of each inseam.

Letting out the fork is not going to make the rise any higher. What your method does is increase the stride. The rise is the outseam minus the inseam, which does not change when the fork is let out. The rise cannot be made higher.

 

[Peak and Pine]

^

Tell that to my pants. The one's I'm wearing. And the other couple dozen in my closet.

 

[Matt S]

^

Tell that to my pants. The one's I'm wearing. And the other couple dozen in my closet.

I've had tailors do this to my trousers. All it does is increase the stride, not the rise. You may be able to wear the trousers higher as a result, but it is still not increasing the rise. If the trousers couldn't sit as high on the waist before your alterations, it is because the crotch was too tight, not because the rise was too short.

 

[KBAnthis]

I saw an advertisement on YouTube for gentleman Jim pant DVD , where he makes a pair in two hours, so I thought maybe I could do it. Previous experience with made to measure didn't work for me. I do not fit well into off the rack clothing do to being taller than ready to wear measurements. I would like to have a personal tailor but right now I don't.

 

[Flanderian]

^^
:icon_scratch::icon_scratch::icon_scratch: Huh?

Methinks someone is monkeying around!

 

[Peak and Pine]

This is in reply to @Matt S, above.

Okay. I am defering to you for the printed explanation, and to myself for the actual doing. And they appear to differ.

My end goal is to get a pant that sits at true waist - - - to me that's my tummy button - - - without junk being compressed or fabric clinging to the cheeks. To achieve that, each inseam is slit open at the crotch for a distance of between 3 to 5 inches and a triangular wedge of compatible fabric inserted. This forms a pouch, essentially unnoticed due to its location, in which the lower part of the valuables rest, while at the same time granting ease to the cheeks.

I have heard of rise being described as you say, outseam minus inseam, but I've never measured out seam, don't even know what my inseam is because, after releasing the crotch as described and putting on the pants, a full length mirror is hauled out, stood in front of side-to and the pant bottom is folded up until it is 2 I/4 inches from the floor (I am in stocking feet and holding a measiring stick with 2 1/4 inches marked off at the end, in a thick line so it can be seen in the mirror without bending or any movent, having adjusted the fabric at leg's end multiple times until the folded-up end meets the measuring line.) Then a chalk mark is made signifiying the proper end to the finished leg. This differs from pant to pant which is why I don't know my inseam, just that when finished, the leg bottom sits 2 1/4 inches from the floor, a measurement unique to me, because when shorn, the break will be precisely where I want it. (Recommended to others as it yields a break, but miniscule.)

So there you have it. A pant that can be cinched at true waist without discomfort or unsightly bulges, yet have the proper length, look good, fall well, no friction at crotch while standing or walking. And I have always referred to this as high rise.

 

[Peak and Pine]

I saw an advertisement on YouTube for gentleman Jim pant DVD , where he makes a pair in two hours, so I thought maybe I could do it. Previous experience with made to measure didn't work for me. I do not fit well into off the rack clothing do to being taller than ready to wear measurements. I would like to have a personal tailor but right now I don't.

You 're not paying attention here, are you?

 

[Matt S]

This is in reply to @Matt S, above.

Okay. I am defering to you for the printed explanation, and to myself for the actual doing. And they appear to differ.

My end goal is to get a pant that sits at true waist - - - to me that's my tummy button - - - without junk being compressed or fabric clinging to the cheeks. To achieve that, each inseam is slit open at the crotch for a distance of between 3 to 5 inches and a triangular wedge of compatible fabric inserted. This forms a pouch, essentially unnoticed due to its location, in which the lower part of the valuables rest, while at the same time granting ease to the cheeks.

I have heard of rise being described as you say, outseam minus inseam, but I've never measured out seam, don't even know what my inseam is because, after releasing the crotch as described and putting on the pants, a full length mirror is hauled out, stood in front of side-to and the pant bottom is folded up until it is 2 I/4 inches from the floor (I am in stocking feet and holding a measiring stick with 2 1/4 inches marked off at the end, in a thick line so it can be seen in the mirror without bending or any movent, having adjusted the fabric at leg's end multiple times until the folded-up end meets the measuring line.) Then a chalk mark is made signifiying the proper end to the finished leg. This differs from pant to pant which is why I don't know my inseam, just that when finished, the leg bottom sits 2 1/4 inches from the floor, a measurement unique to me, because when shorn, the break will be precisely where I want it. (Recommended to others as it yields a break, but miniscule.)

So there you have it. A pant that can be cinched at true waist without discomfort or unsightly bulges, yet have the proper length, look good, fall well, no friction at crotch while standing or walking. And I have always referred to this as high rise.

I understood that this is what you are doing without the explanation. This alteration makes the trousers more comfortable/fit better if your thighs and buttocks are larger than what the model that the trousers were designed to fit. And if your thighs and buttocks are larger than the fit model's, the trousers will sit lower than designed because the fullness is not in the right place.

But what if you put on a pair of trousers that has a true low rise but fits full in the thighs and seat? Adding cloth to the fork will not allow the trousers to sit higher. All you will get is bagginess in the thigh and a saggy seat.

 

[Peak and Pine]

..what if you put on a pair of trousers that has a true low rise but fits relaxed in the thighs and seat? Adding cloth to the fork will not allow the trousers to sit higher. All you will get is bagginess in the thigh and a saggy seat.

I can't corroborate or deny what you are saying, never having tried that. However as an addendum, doing as I've described works only with altering medium to high, not low to high. Reason, the zipper's too short, plus the wedges might become visible. Good discussion. I'm out.The wood stove's calling. Needs its supper.