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Finding myself in between suit sizes, is it easier to make a slightly smaller suit or sport coat bigger? Or one that is too big smaller?
In between suit sizes
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It’s generally easier to make a slightly larger sport coat or suit jacket smaller than the other way around.
A smaller coat—if it’s the right length—can be altered to fit well if it’s only a matter of letting out the side seams or the back seam a little bit. However, if it’s too tight in the chest and shoulders, forget it—go up one size. But then….if the larger coat is too wide in the shoulders, you’d be better off shopping for another brand in another fit.
A smaller coat—if it’s the right length—can be altered to fit well if it’s only a matter of letting out the side seams or the back seam a little bit. However, if it’s too tight in the chest and shoulders, forget it—go up one size. But then….if the larger coat is too wide in the shoulders, you’d be better off shopping for another brand in another fit.
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Yes, I have found when one is a "tweener" with regards to suit sizing (as I am), simply buy the smaller size and have a competent tailor let the garment out. This seems to give the garment a slightly more "fitted" appearance and feel.
There are some makers who are more generous in providing material on the inside of the garments for alterations than other makers. For example, I recently procured a brand new Samuelsohn SC for a hefty discount during Black Friday a couple months ago. I wanted to let the jacket out slightly to accommodate those holiday meals.
My seamstress informed me there was enough extra fabric in the Samuelsohn to enlarge it a whole size and then some. On the other hand, I have several Brooks Brothers jackets and trousers which are not as generous in providing fabric for alterations as Samuelsohn, but still provide fabric enough to do basic adjustments. And still yet, I have a Caruso suit which I could barely squeeze 1 inch from the jacket. This was due, in part, to the jacket being unlined I think.
The moral of the story is you must make sure whichever maker you choose has provided enough extra fabric to make those needful adjustments.
Cheers!
There are some makers who are more generous in providing material on the inside of the garments for alterations than other makers. For example, I recently procured a brand new Samuelsohn SC for a hefty discount during Black Friday a couple months ago. I wanted to let the jacket out slightly to accommodate those holiday meals.
My seamstress informed me there was enough extra fabric in the Samuelsohn to enlarge it a whole size and then some. On the other hand, I have several Brooks Brothers jackets and trousers which are not as generous in providing fabric for alterations as Samuelsohn, but still provide fabric enough to do basic adjustments. And still yet, I have a Caruso suit which I could barely squeeze 1 inch from the jacket. This was due, in part, to the jacket being unlined I think.
The moral of the story is you must make sure whichever maker you choose has provided enough extra fabric to make those needful adjustments.
Cheers!
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