[JayWalker]

I'm looking for some tailoring advice. I've never been happy with the way my suit jackets fit. The fabric always dents in at the shoulder seam, sort of a vertical crease at the back of my arm. I suspect my shoulders slope forward a bit. Some salespersons insist I need a bigger size, some say smaller. Generally, they don't seem that knowledgeable. I've bounced back and forth between 40 long and 41 long. It seems that the shoulder padding overhangs too much, but if I go a size down, the jacket feels too tight over all. I've had some luck with the slimmer suits (Jos. A. Bank's Joseph line and BB's Fitzgerald), but they aren't great, and I'm not necessarily looking for a super-trendy suit. I don't see why the shoulders should fit different on a more "modern" cut.

Other than paying $2000 for a custom suit, does anyone have any advice? Maybe from personal experience? I feel like this is something that a tailor should be able to fix. I'm 6'1 & 180 pounds.

 

[PedanticTurkey]

I assume you're talking about a little drape in the shoulder blades in the back (maybe an inch or two inside the sleeve seam in the back). It's supposed to be there, lets you move your arms a little more freely.

As to the shoulder overhang, it depends on the style of the suit. Some are supposed to overhang a little, others are not. Basically, the more padding there is in the shoulder, the more it can overhang without it being a problem.

You've got the right idea, by the way--try on lots of jackets until you find one that fits!

Some pictures might help, by the way.

 

[Matt S]

I used to find that many suit jackets that fit me in the chest had shoulders too wide for me. I find that Polo suits have narrower shoulders. You might also want to try a larger cut suit in a smaller size. Finding anything smaller than a 40L might be difficult. Try on some 39 and 38 Regulars in different brands to see how the chest and shoulders fit, and if they fit see if the stores can obtain for you a long in those sizes. There are some less expensive made to measure programmes out there that might suit your needs. How much are you willing to spend?

 

[TheWardrobeGirl]

It sounds like the point to point is too big for you...you can take the MTM route for much less than $2000 and solve that...some places offer MTM under $1000...the other thing too is that you might hold you arms forward - this too could be adjusted on a MTM garment..I would have to see pictures to determine a better guesstimate but those are my thoughts from what you have mentioned.

 

[14395]

A good alterations tailor can narrow the shoulders on a jacket.
Not a typical department store tailor who cuffs pants or a dry cleaners.
Sorry I don't know any tailors in your area, but I've had shoulders
narrowed and have been pleased. Could cost between $60 - $100
depending on the tailor and the city.

 

[paul winston]

The general rule for buying off the rack is fitting your largest dimension. That is because the amount of outlet is limited while the amount something can be reduced is far less limited. For example, narrowing shoulders is a standard alteration. ( It is costly because it takes a lot of time and requires a skilled tailor.) While you need blade room (below the armhole) to be able to comfortably move your arms, you don't need a large vertical fold going from the armhole up to the shoulder. The things you are looking for can be handled by MTM.