[TimF]

Intro: I've never worn a leather jacket in my life. Pretty much a square in my oxford shirts, khakis, flannels. Obviously I do try to keep up with the times and have worn more denim and fleece lately. But no T-shirts or sneakers unless I'm exercising. I live in urban centers, and I don't own Harleys.

But my gaze has lately wondered into the world of leather jackets, and I have learned that one of the top makers, Himel Bros, is in a city that I visit frequently. So the gears have started turning:

1. The maker is well-known for their horsehide from Japanese Shinki, and I read how tough and durable horse leather is.
2. On the other hand horsehide really needs to be broken in to be comfortable, to be paid in time invested with the garment.
3. A top-end leather jacket is not cheap, but promises bespoke-level in terms of fit and customization, not to mention maker's artistic eye.
4. Despite the upsides of bespoke, it is not worth it unless I get a lot of wears out of it.

FYI given my "Trad" classy tastes, I'm probably interested in a coat with buttons, not zippers. Luckily the maker has one such model, which seems to be quite popular on the interwebs:

The Heron A-1 - Dark Brown Shinki Horsehide Oil Finish

Looking for the best made, most authentic Horsehide A1 jacket on the market? The Himel Bros. Heron is your One Good Thing. Customize your jacket online, and select one of our proprietary ultra-premium leathers. Made in Toronto, Canada.

himelbros.com

Assuming I stick with the maker's specialty, horse leather, the only decisions for me remaining would be color, and more importantly smooth leather vs. suede. For lining I'm thinking a worsted wool fabric, maybe a twill.

So at this point in my thought process, 2 areas remain rather unknown to me, and I hope for the Trad forum members expert guidance here:

1. How comfortable/breathable is a leather jacket?
   • I'm guessing right off the bat they are no good in the summer, and I read that leather by itself does not insulate. So for winter it will be replaced by my Filson double mackinaw, of similar casualness
   • That leaves fall and spring. Assuming I'll be wearing a button down collar shirt (and maybe a vest or sweater if really chilly), or a rugby, how liable am I to overheat during a brisk walk, going into a well-heated store, etc.?
   • Another way to look at it is what coats I currently own will be "displaced" by the leather jacket. Those would likely be my Baracuta harringtons and Barbour jackets. Would the horsehide be more uncomfortable or impractical than these?
   • P.S. I find waxed cotton impractical, and I'm currently working on de-waxing my father's Moorland from the 90s. So far so good
   • Any other considerations: windproofness, getting the jacket wet, etc.?
2. If I wear the leather with button-down shirts, maybe even a tie, or turtlenecks, or rugbies, how frequently can I, a Trad square, pull off the look?
   • Throwing suede into the equation, can I wear it indoors, or it looks ridiculous?
   • Can I have the leather look every other day, or is it too much for a Trad?
   • To the "displacement" consideration again, I would most happily replace my tan harrington with the leather, so that I would mostly be left with the leather, 2 Barbours (Navy Beaufort and Brown/Olive Moorland), and a trench for dressier occasions. Does this adequately cover my bases on the casual side?

Basically I'm interested to see if many will think this is a cool idea, or a terrible idea, or something in between. The jacket may be a heirloom piece, but if it's not really me, or is impractical for my needs, then I don't think my circumstances would do it justice.

Thank you!

 

[Peak and Pine]

^
You certainly get points for methodical thinking. Never considered any piece of clothing with the detail you're considering this. I might pass out before I reached the end.

There are only a couple of things I can add. One, in the instance of a jacket, I do not consider suede as leather, it is more a fabric. Wearing a suede jacket does not give at all the same look as wearing a finished smooth leather jacket, they're on opposite ends of the jacket spectrum, and the suede is very delicate, hard leather the opposite. As an either/or proposition, it's pretty non-existent, the either and the or are way too far apart.

Two, which probably should have been number one, there is another forum here on the web that purports to be about hats, but every time I check in it's about old guys talking about leather jackets. Endlessly. You might want to peek in over there, it's the Fedora Lounge. Good luck with this, I don't mean to demean, I actually admire the way you're going about this. The buttoned jacket you linked looks pretty good.

 

[fishertw]

I have been decidedly traditional in dress since teenage years. (60 years ago). About three years ago I purchased an A-1 from a reputable maker and have enjoyed it on occasion. For very casual largely athletic related spectator times, it seems to fill a niche. I do however, usually find that I wear other jackets, such as Barbour or a Barracuta or heavier shooting or barn coat or duffell in really cold weather.. Just the experiences of an old guy but I do see it as a niche item of clothing.Good luck. Tom

 

[TimF]

^
You certainly get points for methodical thinking. Never considered any piece of clothing with the detail you're considering this. I might pass out before I reached the end.

There are only a couple of things I can add. One, in the instance of a jacket, I do not consider suede as leather, it is more a fabric. Wearing a suede jacket does not give at all the same look as wearing a finished smooth leather jacket, they're on opposite ends of the jacket spectrum, and the suede is very delicate, hard leather the opposite. As an either/or proposition, it's pretty non-existent, the either and the or are way too far apart.

Two, which probably should have been number one, there is another forum here on the web that purports to be about hats, but every time I check in it's about old guys talking about leather jackets. Endlessly. You might want to peek in over there, it's the Fedora Lounge. Good luck with this, I don't mean to demean, I actually admire the way you're going about this. The buttoned jacket you linked looks pretty good.

Thank you P&P for the compliments and your perspective. I'm aware of that other forum, and have peeked to research for example the different types of leathers. I specifically wanted to ask the Trad forum for advice on aesthetics and practicality, as I'm not a biker, or ex-military, or have much in common with those "old guys". I wanted to know how much a leather item would fit into a "Trad" wardrobe. And having some of that Yankee outlook rub off on me, I want to be enjoying the thing enough, given how cost prohibitive leather jackets are. (Would be another matter if I can get a quality jacket handed down within the family, but alas no luck here)

For the amount of money, I'd damn well be methodical! lol

 

[TimF]

I have been decidedly traditional in dress since teenage years. (60 years ago). About three years ago I purchased an A-1 from a reputable maker and have enjoyed it on occasion. For very casual largely athletic related spectator times, it seems to fill a niche. I do however, usually find that I wear other jackets, such as Barbour or a Barracuta or heavier shooting or barn coat or duffell in really cold weather.. Just the experiences of an old guy but I do see it as a niche item of clothing.Good luck. Tom

Thank you so much Tom for sharing your experiences. What leather is your A-1 made of? Is it lined? And how comfortable do you find it, in relation to say the Barracuta?

 

[ran23]

It's 44 out, think I will grab my light brown suede jacket this morning.

 

[fishertw]

Tim,
This jacket is goat skin and is branded by Champion in NYC using military specs from the Army and AF. It has knit banded cuffs and banding at the waist and patch pockets as the original ones seem to be. It is heavier and more stiff than the Barracuta and is definitely warmer. Hope this helps some as well.
Good luck in your search. I normally wear a 44 but just now checkling it is a 46 and has plenty of room for a sweater underneath.


Tom

 

[Prisoner of Zendaline]

The leather you've chosen, seems really beautiful, and potentially durable. The shape of the bottom of the jacket, would be flattering, since it's not a straight line. And the finest outerwear I've ever owned, has come from Canada. But (and this only matters to some of us) be aware that the shape of a garment, when that garment is not being worn, tends to be the shape which the garment imposes upon the wearer. This is particularly true of outerwear. Those photos of the men modeling the jacket (I followed your link) reinforced my fears. The shape is dumpy, and will make the wearer look dumpy. Given, those are amazingly-ugly men. But still....

As for their description of the product, I had flashbacks of a catalogue from White's Flower Farm. This was decades back. Apparently, they'd hired a "wordsmith", to "wordsmith" their product descriptions. It was clear that the "wordsmith" was a youngish single female, of the type who'd barely (and after several tries) passed college 'Math 100'. No doubt, her idea of "The Good Life", was an apartment filled with 'The Four Cs' - Coffee, Cats, C----, and Cigarettes. DW was reading the descriptions, parodying the voice of her math-challenged, sequentially-bisexual, cig-smoking druggie cousin, who'd "run off to Baltimore", to be a poetess. Bulb cultivars were referred-to as "she", and described as one would describe the female human object of one's fascination. It was clear, that the "wordsmith" thought that the only possible reason one would care about plants, would be that one was lonely, and had no people (or cats) in one's life. The Consumer was clearly envisioned as being an elderly woman with a bit of money, who had no granddaughters of her own. Daffodils and tulips were surrogate granddaughters.

We (perennially fixated upon gussying-up our commercial properties' landscaping) found the descriptions of the bulbs on-offer, to be so insulting and depressing, we forgot about ordering, that fall, and just had the landscape people fill the various blank spots on various properties, with just pansies, as-usual. And I'm similarly having trouble getting past the ethos/mythos/mystique/bro-belonginghood/man-culture/cool-&-ironic-hipsterism being desperately pushed in the descriptions of those leather goods. I'm seeing the same sort of cynical assumptions, being made by marketers, of the sort of men who'd buy leather jackets, and their motivations for buying those jackets (fitting-in with a group of "cool guys": attaining a sense of "brotherhood").

Maybe this is a factor in your reluctance to buy? ...you don't fit the profile cynically assumed by the "wordsmith"?

Have no fear: a jacket like that, is consummately 'Trad', and can be thrown-on, when you're in casual trousers and a cotton or cashmere sweater. It will work with car shoes or tassel loafers or Stubbs & Wootton needlepoint slippers.

As for the price of what you've chosen, it's reasonable. Saks is offering a beefy-looking shearling, from Ralph Lauren, RTW, for the same money. Your choice would be more versatile, though, if you don't mind looking narrow-shouldered.

 

[William Kazak]

I purchased a new goatskin bomber jacket from Cockpit last year. The material at the cuffs is nice. The material at the waist could be roomier. It does not get a lot of wear here in the Midwest. If it is wet outside, it stays indoors. You might want to get a vintage leather from a thrift store. The natural beauty of real leather can be special indeed. See if you can find a fit that works for you. Goatskin is not all that important. I just wanted to experience it because I have worn cow hide jackets before. I have given up on suede many years ago. Leather can be polished like shoes are.

 

[Peak and Pine]

The leather you've chosen, seems really beautiful, and potentially durable. The shape of the bottom of the jacket, would be flattering, since it's not a straight line. And the finest outerwear I've ever owned, has come from Canada. But (and this only matters to some of us) be aware that the shape of a garment, when that garment is not being worn, tends to be the shape which the garment imposes upon the wearer. This is particularly true of outerwear. Those photos of the men modeling the jacket (I followed your link) reinforced my fears. The shape is dumpy, and will make the wearer look dumpy. Given, those are amazingly-ugly men. But still....

As for their description of the product, I had flashbacks of a catalogue from White's Flower Farm. This was decades back. Apparently, they'd hired a "wordsmith", to "wordsmith" their product descriptions. It was clear that the "wordsmith" was a youngish single female, of the type who'd barely (and after several tries) passed college 'Math 100'. No doubt, her idea of "The Good Life", was an apartment filled with 'The Four Cs' - Coffee, Cats, C----, and Cigarettes. DW was reading the descriptions, parodying the voice of her math-challenged, sequentially-bisexual, cig-smoking druggie cousin, who'd "run off to Baltimore", to be a poetess. Bulb cultivars were referred-to as "she", and described as one would describe the female human object of one's fascination. It was clear, that the "wordsmith" thought that the only possible reason one would care about plants, would be that one was lonely, and had no people (or cats) in one's life. The Consumer was clearly envisioned as being an elderly woman with a bit of money, who had no granddaughters of her own. Daffodils and tulips were surrogate granddaughters.

We (perennially fixated upon gussying-up our commercial properties' landscaping) found the descriptions of the bulbs on-offer, to be so insulting and depressing, we forgot about ordering, that fall, and just had the landscape people fill the various blank spots on various properties, with just pansies, as-usual. And I'm similarly having trouble getting past the ethos/mythos/mystique/bro-belonginghood/man-culture/cool-&-ironic-hipsterism being desperately pushed in the descriptions of those leather goods. I'm seeing the same sort of cynical assumptions, being made by marketers, of the sort of men who'd buy leather jackets, and their motivations for buying those jackets (fitting-in with a group of "cool guys": attaining a sense of "brotherhood").

Maybe this is a factor in your reluctance to buy? ...you don't fit the profile cynically assumed by the "wordsmith"?

Have no fear: a jacket like that, is consummately 'Trad', and can be thrown-on, when you're in casual trousers and a cotton or cashmere sweater. It will work with car shoes or tassel loafers or Stubbs & Wootton needlepoint slippers.

As for the price of what you've chosen, it's reasonable. Saks is offering a beefy-looking shearling, from Ralph Lauren, RTW, for the same money. Your choice would be more versatile, though, if you don't mind looking narrow-shouldered.

I enjoy your posts.
The above is no exceprion.

 

[some_dude]

I have a Baron leather jacket that, I believe, was made in New York. A friend organized a group purchase back in 1999 or so, and I still wear it regularly. I remember my friend telling me that the shop (or maybe the factory?) was destroyed in the World Trade Center disaster... so that's how I roughly know the date.

Anyway, other than the zipper having to be replaced, it looks like new. Leather jackets wear really well.

As for when to wear it, while I wouldn't really define myself as a "trad" guy (I wear suits and ties and khakis/sweaters a lot), I wear it to casual events, usually with jeans. That said, it does look nice with khakis as well.

 

[The Great Garbanzo]

Wish I could help.

I do have a goatskin LL Bean that I love the look of, just not on ME.

 

[some_dude]

I looked closer at my jacket, and it was made in Pakistan. Interesting.

 

[katon]

1. Despite the upsides of bespoke, it is not worth it unless I get a lot of wears out of it.

This will depend on how you spend your time -- people wear things that are useful more often than things that are ceremonial. Often when a garment morphs from one to the other, it is because the old use went away, and a new use couldn't be found for it.

FYI given my "Trad" classy tastes, I'm probably interested in a coat with buttons, not zippers.

I wouldn't discount zippers just based on their un-Tradly character -- I think that leather flight jackets were naturalized into the look largely through L.L. Bean's old Flying Tiger jackets during the 1980s, and those were based off the zippered A-2 rather than the buttoned A-1.

Assuming I stick with the maker's specialty, horse leather, the only decisions for me remaining would be color, and more importantly smooth leather vs. suede. For lining I'm thinking a worsted wool fabric, maybe a twill.

If you are looking for a suede jacket with buttons and a wool lining, have you considered a shearling coat? Brooks Brothers used to sell them back in the day, although nowadays they might be a bit too Country-Western for some folks, not sure how it would be perceived in Canada.

(1971)

They did have a leather jacket too, though -- from Sweden? Spirit of the 70s, maybe.

 

[godan]

Take a look at Langlitz Leathers in Portland, Oregon. Depend on your budget and the time you are willing to wait, their quality and craftsmanship are superb.

 

[Tweedlover]

I have a couple of leather jackets, 1 of which I thrifted for $20 last year which needed a new zipper. That cost me a whole additional $25. I live in an area with 4 seasons, though typically fairly mild in the winter. Would say that I primarily wear my jackets in early spring and later fall-it's still in the 70's here. Leather jackets generally do not provide sufficient warmth in temps below 40 degrees. Given I also have 2 other non-leather coats I wear in temps between upper 30's and 50 degrees-a car coat and a peacoat-I probably only wear my leather coats less than 30 times a year.

 

[Tweedlover]

I should add, however, that I'd imagine a shearling lined leather coat would be much warmer in winter than non-shearling, which is what I have.

 

[Grayland]

I like your thinking and agree that a button-up version looks a little more trad.

Aero Leather out of Scotland makes really nice leather jackets and you can customize it quite a bit. If you buy through Thurston Brothers, they'll send a fit jacket to allow you to see how it fits and what you need to tweak. Himel makes some of the best leather jackets in the world (I have one of his jackets - the Canuck, in a nice wool with leather trim), but if you aren't sure leather is for you, you might hold off on a $2,500 purchase.

Aero Aeromarine – Thurston Bros Rough Wear LLC

Fifteen years ago Aero acquired an original early 1920s button-up jacket and it has taken well over a decade to get this classic shawl collar flight jacket patterned and into production! The Aeromarine is essentially a forerunner of the Type A-1 with a button-up front first seen in the early...

www.thurston-bros.com

You're probably thinking higher-end, but here is a decent quality A-1 that will allow you to dip your toes in the leather jacket world without it costing you a fortune:

USAAF Type A-1 Leather Flight Jacket - Light Brown

The Type A-1 Flight Jacket is the predecessor of the Type A-2 Flight Jacket, began to serve in 1927, it is the ancestor of all flight jackets, the army pilots and navy pilots had gm. It is a single-layer jacket, mainly used in the spring and autumn, and summer. It is also the first jacket to use...

bronsonshop.com

I don't have an A-1 but they are supposed to be light, easy to wear and almost a leather version of a wind breaker.

 

[William Kazak]

Mine is A2. I wore it with a white silk scarve yesterday in Chicago suburbs. Today I wore a navy pea coat. They are warmer, especially with a cashmere scarve.

 

[some_dude]

The Langlitz Flight jacket does look pretty darn good-- and they will make it to measure:

Flight Jacket - Langlitz Leathers

For those wanting the style made famous by military aviation jackets, look no farther than our Flight Jackets. A straight front zipper, with a ¾ length windflap, dress collar, two open hand warmer pockets, the internal map pocket, and a one-piece back round out its standard configuration...

www.langlitz.com