[Mystified]

Hello all — long time lurker, first time poster.

So I ordered a suit from Spier and Mackay that came back way too small in several aspects. Part of this was due to too-small measurements given by my tailor, and part of it was due to a mistake by Spier and Mackay, namely sending me a jacket three inches smaller than I’d specified in the chest. I won’t bore you with the painful details, most of which I expect I can manage well enough with Spier and Mackay.

But I do have a couple of questions that I would like to entrust to the wisdom of the forum. The first has to do with the relationship between the waist measurement and seat measurement. I would like to wear these trousers with suspenders, at about my natural waistline. I am on the, shall we say, portly side, and as far as I can tell, I will need about a 42-inch waist for this to work. But it’s also my misfortune to have next to no butt. Best I can tell, my seat measurement is also 42 inches. Combine that with a chest measurement of 46 inches, and it would be fair to say that I am oddly shaped. Anyway, the configuration engine does not seem to allow for near-identical seat and waist measurements. I did not notice this the first time around because the tailor I saw took the waist measurement lower on my body, consistent with current style norms.

It seems to me that there are two possible solutions to this problem. The first is this: as a porky guy, I’ve read that it can be a good idea — would perhaps even be the “done thing” traditionally — to go for much more of a relaxed drape in the seat and trouser leg. How much added room in the seat, thigh, and hem does this usually translate to, in terms of additional inches beyond a slimmer “modern” fit? Maybe that would get me closer to the “minimum” allowed by the Spier and Mackay system. And second, if I can’t get the configurator to get the seat quite as small as I want, will it be possible for a good alterations tailor to take the seat in another couple inches? I know that it’s possible to take in the seat, but I’m not certain what sort of limitations exist as to how much.

Just as a further data point that may interest you, I found the seat on the trousers I got to be very unpleasantly constraining and not comfortable at all. So a more relaxed seat is probably my preference anyway.

Also, as a final concern, what’s a typical and appropriate hem size for a traditional drape on a guy who’s five foot seven, 190-195 pounds, with about size 10 shoes? 16 inches is clearly too small, but how much larger do we dare go?

As a relative newbie, I appreciate all the guidance you can give. Clothes fitment has a lot of moving parts and can be difficult for the uninitiated.

Thanks,

Jordan

 

[medhat]

"Hem size"? Unclear what you're referring to here, is it the pant diameter, in which case 16" is pretty standard (or 17". 14-15" would be in the narrow/tapered category). As a bigger guy I wouldn't fall for the presumption that a suit should fit you like a poorly-fitted sac. You could get a suit tailored for you that takes into account your true measurements without looking unshaped. The use of darting in a jacket isn't only limited to waist suppression; it's intended to shape the body of the jacket to the wearer. And as far as pants go, aim for comfort, and if your case you may consider pleats if you need room through the seat but don't want the appearance of a roomy leg. Last, I'd probably steer clear of a modern, "butt-revealing" jacket length. Just covering the seat seems likely a good strategy, too much longer and it might be dumpy.

 

[Mystified]

Thanks, medhac. I am a little concerned that going too long on the jacket will make me look silly, as a short guy. That said, a smidge longer might be in order. Also sounds like a 17-inch leg diameter is on the conservative side of normal, which is what I am aiming for.

If we are still aiming for something reasonably fitted in the seat and thighs, we’ve still got to figure out how to get Spier and Mackay to do it. I suspect I will look terrible with the minimum size offered at the necessary trouser size, which I think is 45.5 inches. I need to knock at least a couple inches off that somehow.

 

[Charles Dana]

Mystified, perhaps Spier and Mackay isn’t the right clothier for you. Have you considered getting a made-to-measure suit from a local menswear store? (The made-to-measure process has its inherent limits, but in dealing face-to-face with a hometown merchant, you’d be able to eliminate all this long-distance frustration.)

 

[Mystified]

Mystified, perhaps Spier and Mackay isn't the right clothier for you. Have you considered getting a made-to-measure suit from a local menswear store? (The made-to-measure process has its inherent limits, but in dealing face-to-face with a hometown merchant, you'd be able to eliminate all this long-distance frustration.)

Frankly, I am thinking the same thing. I'll have to see what my options are. I may be committed for this particular suit, as I'm not sure I can just get a cash refund, but at least for the next one, staying local seems like a better choice.