Does anyone know if there's a somewhat "timeless standard" range for collar band and leaf height on shirts that most decent shirtmaker follow? This would be a good starting point, I suppose.
I don't think you're going to get better-or different-responses than the ones you've received so far.
It's difficult to give you a more satisfying answer because your questions are inherently contradictory. (That's why you're back at square one.)
Here's the problem:
Consider your first post in this thread. On the one hand, you are looking for "guidelines…and general rules for determining the proper acceptable range for shirt collar height." Thus, you seem to be looking for a kind of template…or rules of thumb.
(I suppose a manager at a company that churns out hundreds of ready-made shirts per week could answer that question.)
However, in the second part of your initial post, you narrow things down. You say that you want to know how "a good bespoke tailor [who] is making a shirt pattern" decides "what works best for collar height."
Now we have a dilemma because a maker of "bespoke" shirts doesn't use "guidelines" and "general rules." Each pattern he makes is unique to the respective client.
So do you want generalities-which apply to mass-market shirts-or do you want to know how bespoke shirtmakers figure out collar specs-a process that is the opposite of generalities?
It's as if you're asking us to tell you which brand of spork do 5-star restaurants set on the table. Tough to answer that one.
(Between the factories that make mass-produced shirts and the tailors who make bespoke shirts are the made-to-measure companies. The latter, however, don't usually offer a choice of collar heights. You could ask some of them, though, if they do and how they figure out dimensions.)
You might get a semi-helpful answer if you ask your question on the Style Forum. Chris Despos, a highly-regarded custom tailor, is a member over there. He's responsive to the other members.
