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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dear esteemed gentleman,

This morning I dropped few more pieces to my alteration tailor, and was pleasantly surprised to see that my suits are ready ahead of schedule. I felt good on their fitting. What do you think? My sizes are 5'6", 195lbs, 42s, 22" sleeves, 27.5" inseam.

Bay'ed Cesarani, made in Italy very dark navy pinstriped suit.
Dress shirt Sleeve Grey Collar Suit

My first Jos A Bank "Signature" traditional baggy fit suit with waist taken in as recommended by my tailor. When I bought it online clearance, I didn't know about different constructions and fits. My following Jos A Bank purchases were all Signature Gold or Reserve, with Fitted fit when I could find.
Dress shirt Sleeve Street fashion Waist Gesture

Bay'ed Oxford Clothiers made in USA navy "pinstriped blazer." Not knowing that blazers don't have pinstripes at the time, I had it already altered and even put bronze buttons.
Joint Outerwear Shoe Leg Dress shirt

For what it takes, the lighter shade blue pinstripe is rather inconspicuous.
Textile Sleeve Grey Material property Road surface
 

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The jackets are pulling where buttoned, but that might be partly or entirely the result of your posture, I.e. standing with your arms out. With your build you need fuller cut and more loosely fitted clothing, not tighter, to look your best. Also, as you're not tall, you need to wear your trousers shorter to get a better line. You'd look best without a break. Also, having them tapered slightly from the knee to hem would be a big help. And if they could do the same to the jacket sleeve, that would also serve you better.

Edit: Also looking at it again, while a more robust man needs a slightly longer jacket, these might be just slightly longer than optimal. Still, they might be the best compromise you'll find in RTW. Shortening jackets can be done, but it usually doesn't improve the overall fit that much, and can spoil the jacket's cut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Flanderian, Thank you for the advise! I will try that on my next tailor visit.

While we are at that, should I have my trousers keep cuffed when I shorten and taper them? Would it depends if the trousers have one or two pleats?
 

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Flanderian, Thank you for the advise! I will try that on my next tailor visit.

While we are at that, should I have my trousers keep cuffed when I shorten and taper them? Would it depends if the trousers have one or two pleats?
You're very welcome!

To be most flattering for you, conventional wisdom is to wear them without a cuff when more robust, and I agree it might look best for you. Pleats really have nothing to do with whether you prefer cuffs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good advice, but it also looks as if your shirt collar is too tight. How does it feel? You might want to consider going up a half-inch in the collar.
I can't escape from your sharp eyes!
It is a recently purchased T. M. Lewin with neck size 16.5. Unlike my old Kirkland shirts with the same size, this one has thicker fabric and became very tight after a wash. My diet has been really working so I hope the problem will be remedied on it's own. I am hesitant to invest in size 17 shirts and then find them too big in a month.
 

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From your measurements you seem to be stocky, but that doesn't come across in your snaps (not that that would be a bad thing if it did.)

The below-hip fit is exceptional. The pulling that Flanderian's pointed out occurs only in the second fit and should be corrected, but fits 1 and 3 seem quite good. There are preferences that I have that I will not force you to read because they have nothing to do with true fit and I'm of a different structure than you besides being so old I have a pin-up of Annette Funicello on my bedroom wall. And not sure why the collar and tie thing was brought up since you inquired only about suit fit and not to be ragged on about extrania (hey, I just said extrania, Ors and Charles love it when I do the made-up Latin). All-in-all, damn good fits for second-hand.
 

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If you're in the process of losing weight, then I'd suggest doing nothing with the jackets at this time. They're close, but perhaps a touch snug. That should/could relieve itself with really only a modest (~ 5#) weight loss. Skip the waist suppression (on all of them). I strongly agree with the prior comments by Flanderian re: pant length, but then again I personally lean strongly towards minimal/no break. The idea of tapering the pants are intriguing, but don't go overboard, you don't want to look "top heavy", like a bodybuilder who ignores leg work. I personally prefer cuffs on suit pants outside of formalwear, I suppose you could ask for a smaller cuff but in your case I think standard cuff height works fine. With a stockier build I'd lean towards fitted, but not contoured (if that makes any sense), clothing. Too baggy doesn't help. As far as the tie goes, I'd like to suggest a half-Windsor vs. the four-in-hand. It looks neater, it's more triangular (?), and IMO would suit your build better. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you. I will keep all your advises in mind. I have couple of one size smaller suits and a blazer coming from last clearance at Jos A Bank. All half canvassed models. I am hoping to move into that size within 90 days. I didn't spend much on the photoed suits and the money would be well spent even if they will serve me only in the interim! I will try the new tie knots!
 

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First one, shoulders too wide.

Second one, too tight.

Third one, slightly tight, pants a bit too long.

Not sure how the shoulders are fixable. The other two, easily fixable.

As has been said, your build looks best in traditional cuts. (Note, I consider everything you posted to be a traditional cut). Avoid the slim stuff, it isn't for you.

Your shirt collars seem a bit tight, and you need to tighten up your tie. Also the collar points don't reach the jacket and probably should.

These are all nitpicks. Compared to the average guy, you're doing fairly well.
 

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For some reason, the sleeves look a tad short to me. Perhaps your shirts' sleeves are too long, or perhaps the jacket sleeves could use a half in more or so.

The shoulders on your jackets are wider than optimal. I would say try wearing a size 40S. You're a broad guy and not very tall, as am I, so we need our suits to make us look leaner and longer. I think a jacket with a narrower shoulder would work, as long as the chest and midsection don't pull. If the midsection pulls on a smaller jacket, you could have the midsection taken out about 1-2 inches.

In the future, also look for jackets with smaller armholes.

To repeat what others have said, the pants could use being an inch or so shorter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hebrew Barrister. Thank you. I learned Windsor knot this morning and it looks great. I will hold on to that shirt until I loose a few more pounds. I tried slim jackets but my arms couldn't even fit properly. But I am going to get some fitted suits that will have about same traditional chest.

triklops55, Thank you for your comments. My shirts sleeves are covering too much of my hands. I will try making the cuffs slightly tighter. I agree that size 40s and smaller armholes would be better, as soon as I loose a few more pounds on my upper arms and chest. I already have a few suits and jackets at 40s waiting for me to be able to fit in to them.
 

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I agree that a half windsor or even a windsor may work well for you especially with standard length ties. Also a thicker knot will suit your frame. If you are still losing weight don't get too excited about anything until you stabilize. Nothing worse than having a closet full of clothes that don't fit.
 
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