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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Gents,

I'm in the market for sportcoat/blazer that I can wear out at nights while enjoying libations. As you no doubt contrived from my handle, I hail from the Commonwealth of Kentucky, but a current resident of Coral Gables, FL. (I only disclaim this to avoid any wool/winter suggestions...not to dissuade any trad style comments).

That said, I'm in the market for more of a sportcoat than a blazer. Needless to say I own a few classic navy blazers (brass/gold butons), but was looking for another style of trad sportcoat and was hopeful to gain insight vis-a-vis style, make, color (preferably darker). Particularly, what type of buttons would be appropriate.

Also, I have read prior threads concerning suit jackets being passed off as sportcoats on eBay (whether it be intentional fraud or by mistake), and was hoping to gain any additional tips that may help me to avoid that embarassment. From the said discussion the primary red flag I took away was if the jacket has subtle lines or patterns it likely was the jacket to a suit.

Thanks again for all the help....this is truly a great forum for younger TIT's (trads in training) to harness our potential.
 

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O'Connell's.
J. Press.
Andover Shop.
Eljo's.
Eddie Jacobs.
Cable Car Clothiers.
Brooks (3/2 sacks only for jackets).

Visit if you can. Check the Archives for websites and other details.

BTW, welcome to the Forum.
 

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Just curious, why a darker color preference if you're in Florida?

I tend to choose cotton and linen as warm-weather fabrics; I'm sure someone has produced a natural shoulder jacket in one of these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
JS:
Just curious, why a darker color preference if you're in Florida?
No worries...should have explained myself more clearly....

1. outside of wearing extreme fabrics (e.g. wool), the heat/humidity doesn't bother me all that much
2. might not be here too much longer - done with school in May - no plans afterwards
3. better camouflage for a spilled cranberry&vodka into my back (or whatever drink these people are drinking here nowadays)
4. i want a few new sportcoats and figured better to start with a staple darker color, then buy something lighter...should i reconsider? (funding is drying up right now, so the order of my purchases is critical --- which i should disclaim is by my detriment - my decision to buy an 88 proline center console has put a damper on my trad clothing budget)

Edit
bd: Thanks for the clothiers...I am familiar with most and would love to snag a quality coat from eBay, but I suppose time will tell. Any words on what style I should most target? Sack only? Thanks again.
 

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Keep an eye on the Informal Trad Exchange,

some nice things show up there.

Currently Tony Lumpkin is listing a B2 3b 346 navy blazer that appears to be 1/4 lined and hopsack. Perfect for Florida. Size 42L.

The Murrays Toggery nant red blazer is nice too, but are you the traddest of the trad to carry it off?
 

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One of four. Virginia, Massachusetts, and Pennsylvania being the others.
 

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Try a sack jacket (i.e., natural slightly-padded shoulders, no darts) for maximum Trad effect. The vendors I listed all offer some version of the basic model. Ben Silver, Eljo's, and the Andover Shop offer two-button sacks, while the rest (and Eljo's) offer the three-button version, with lapels rolled to the middle button ("3/2"), the more common configuration. Nowadays, almost all the jackets at Brooks are of the padded, darted, 2-button type, but they do carry a sack or two every season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the advice.

I've never owned a sack before and was just wondering a little about how they fit. I really like the 3/2 look, but am somewhat concerned about how I would look in the fuller cut of the sack jacket. I am a thin guy, but consider myself decently built. I'm 5'11", 165 lbs., have long arms, and typically wear a 41L (sometimes 42R) with 32x32 pants. In the past I have had trouble of suit jackets swallowing me (not to mention, purchasing nested suits is a figment of my imagination --- not that that's a bad thing).

Anyways, just wanted to get some thoughts on how a sack jacket would fit me and see if there was any sizing advice I should be wary of.


Cheers,

mam


p.s. also, this likely is an asinine question, but is there a such thing as a darted 3/2 roll?
 

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Sacks can be nipped in at the waist, same as darted coats. I'm a skinny guy and think a properly tailored sack looks fine on me.
It has been said that sacks can be taken in even more, since you don't need to worry about distorting the darted shaping. I suppose the same argument could be made about taking in flat front pants vs. taking in pleated pants.
 

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A word or two from Miami

A few thoughts.
Here (Miami is where I live) hardly anyone wears the full trad Monty. Well-dressed gents -- and Coral Gables is where they're found -- prefer Italian lines. So be prepared to stand out rather than blend in -- your call.
You're right to go with dark colors. Only outsiders wear light-colored linen and cotton all year in Florida. At night dark is right. And your take on the cranberry-vodka problem is astute.
Contrary to what most think, it does get nippy at night in the winter months. Plus wool remains the most breathable and relatively wrinkle-proof year round fabric -- light wool not Harris Tweed.
Nothing wrong with wearing a suit jacket as a sports coat, as long as you know that's what you're doing. A long time ago, Northern gents wintering in Florida would keep their navy blue suit jacket -- and dress shirt and tie -- and trade the trousers for white flannels. That said, a proper sports coat has bolder pattern and/or color and contrasting buttons.
Go to ebay or this online thrift shop for trad. Or if you think the look is not exactly for you, then try the Neiman-Marcus Last Call outlet at Dolphin Mall in Miami or (much bigger selection) at Sawgrass Mills Mall in Broward County, a few miles north. Lots of stuff way too gaudy, but worth combing for the right item.
Good luck.
 

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It's kind of late in the year, but usually in August/September you can find a good number of silk/wool blend summer sport coats on sale for pretty cheap. I find these to be perfect for summer.

However, unless you go to one of the sources mentioned earlier in the thread, you're not likely to find any true sacks.
 
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