Men's Clothing Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been meaning to seek advice here for a while is getting on the proportions for jackets on a taller person like myself. The first is Samuelsohn MTM second iteration from a local shop. The second is a local custom Italian tailor, and the third is a previous local custom tailor I had used. I tend to prefer longer sleeves so can't blame them for that :)

Third jacket the tailor really wanted to deemphasize my slightness and went for longer lapels, wide leg double pleat pants (same pants in all 3 photos), and not much waist suppression. Others are a bit more balanced waist suppression.

Anyone care to weigh in on lapel length, width, button stance for me?

Suit trousers Dress shirt Sleeve Collar Suit
Suit trousers Dress shirt Tie Sleeve Hat
Suit trousers Property Dress shirt Sleeve Standing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,534 Posts
I agree with WA that the button stance could be a bit lower. It's usually too high. It's hard to tell what exactly is wrong because your proportions are different than most men's. I think the sleeves being too long might be throwing me off. How tall are you? I feel like I'm looking at photos of Fred Gwynne!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
I'm definitely in the "jacket #2" camp. #3 it too long, even for you, and it makes you look more gangly. As far as waist suppression, if you're tall and uniformly slim then there's not a lot of mileage you'll get with suppressing a waist that's not there, unless you really want to pad the shoulder (which you may actually consider). You have a consistent slight divot along your left shoulder in all three jackets, which makes me suspect that it's you, not the jackets (no offense). As #2 and #3 are custom I would expect a tailor could "fix" that. I'm a firm believer in the use of plaids to break up the large expanse of fabric in a tall wearer (I'm decidedly not in that camp), and I like the plaids you've chosen. For more formal may I suggest a POW/Glen Plaid pattern, that may look really sharp. I think the lapels in #2 are my favorite as well. I'm indifferent as to the button stance; it looks close enough for me. My preferences also run towards minimal/no break for pants, especially if you're tall and slim; the pants look like their pooling at your ankles. Last, even if you prefer your suit sleeves long, and you're already shelling out for custom, I'd still show some shirt sleeve cuff (may also need to be custom length), as it'd really balance out the whole look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone!

Yes the angle is off somehow in photos, they all look a bit better in person (I hope) and pattern is parallel to floor.

I'm 6'10". Always was self conscious of everything being too short in the sleeve so over compensated in sleeve lengths, I'm slowing getting over it...

Good pick up, my collar bone is a bit asymmetric jutting up a bit on the left along with the drop shoulder on the right throws things off a bit.

Yeah my general impression was been #2 as well (most of my other jackets a few suits are from this tailor) branched out into MTM for a few unlined jackets. But the tailors take/advice between 2 and 3 were so different that I wanted to get other opinions before getting into more expensive purchases down the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I think #2 hangs the best on your frame of those three. And it's got the best check too.

I'm not so sure that the buttons are too high, as much as I am that the bottom hem is a bit low. I'd shorten the jacket half of your thumb length. This will change the overall visual proportions a bit.... A little more "athletic basketball player" and a little less "gangling, torso-heavy giant." Okay, I'm over stating the effects with those phrasing choices, but I'm hoping it expresses my opinion on the jacket in a clear way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I think #2 hangs the best on your frame of those three. And it's got the best check too.

I'm not so sure that the buttons are too high, as much as I am that the bottom hem is a bit low. I'd shorten the jacket half of your thumb length. This will change the overall visual proportions a bit.... A little more "athletic basketball player" and a little less "gangling, torso-heavy giant." Okay, I'm over stating the effects with those phrasing choices, but I'm hoping it expresses my opinion on the jacket in a clear way.
Funny enough my first iteration with MTM was 1" shorter (also a bit narrower lapel). It was for a navy linen suit that I'll rarely wear to work so I didn't mind but felt overall pattern looked a bit too modern/short to my eye for the office. Now perhaps with MTM they just increased the length by that much and it threw off the proportions somewhat? I'm not sure how much to expect out of MTM vs low end bespoke/custom (ie #2) in terms of fitting for someone my size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
So you have 3 jackets going from short, medium, and long jacket length with higher, medium, lower button locations. If you want longer lapels with lower button stance, see if you can get the button location relative to your body on your gig line from the #3 jacket to your #2 jacket. That way, you can have lower stance with long lapels and a more pleasing jacket length.

But then, you need to consider this question: why do I want a lower button stance? To enhance my height? To elongate my lines? Given your height, I would not think these are applicable to you (envied eyes). However, if you do prefer that, IMO getting the button location from #3 into #2 jacket will be the best bet.

IMO for tall and slim folks like you, the jacket length is more important than button stance given your height. You need to think the other way like: is my jacket long enough so that my legs do not appear too long. For a given pattern, a longer jacket will have lower button stance, but with limitation. It all depends on how lenient the MTM system works to what extent that you can tweak it. Button locations may not be one of it.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top