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Help me build a small, versatile, non-business suit wardrobe

2087 Views 17 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Rosarito
I need some help rounding out a small suit wardrobe, leaning more on the casual/cocktail side, not so much on the conservative/business side.

I like to wear suits for social events, weddings, shows, nice dinners, special events, etc., and don't wear a suit for work. I am in my mid 40s, in great shape and live a pretty social and active lifestyle. I live in Southern California where it's 70-80º F almost every day. It rains occasionally.

I currently own two suits:
  1. Navy Suit: Navy two-piece with worsted medium weight wool, two button, notched lapel. It's a well fitting general purpose workhorse but feels a little too formal/conservative in some settings. Sometimes I wish I got a hopsack or another more open/textured weave.
  2. Tuxedo: Black classic peak lapel tuxedo for the occasional gala, black tie event. Perfecto.
I'm stuck on the idea that I am missing one or two key suits, specifically in the cocktail/semi-formal/elevated casual realm. Khaki cotton? Linen? Mid-gray? Something with a pattern?

If you were me and didn't mind throwing a little money at the problem, how many additional suits would you get and which ones? Feel free to recommend color, fabric weight, pattern, texture, etc. Thanks!
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One general purpose suit that goes well with most shirts and ties is the classic grey flannel suit in an Oxford grey colour. Flannel is too warm for the SoCal weather, so a variant that might serve you well, and look good is a worsted flannel suit, or even a tropical worsted suit in this mid-grey colour. Matt S has also suggested this colour as a good option.

The advantage of this suit is that it is usually correct for most occasions, and can be dressed up with a good grenadine or foulard tie and burgundy/black shoes, or dressed down with a cream tattersall shirt and a burgundy knitted necktie or bow tie, along with country brogues or even loafers.

Beyond this, my advice is to go with blazers, sports jackets and dress slacks. This was suggested by poppies above. The advantage to taking this path is that there are many more ways in which you can combine these jackets and trousers.
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Splendid plan of action!

The one additional thing I will ask that you do is to keep a single navy blue blazer, even if you decide to give others away (I'm assuming you have two or three). Ideally, this could be a hopsack or open-weave, but with the regulation brass buttons. A single-breasted model, with two or three buttons will do you rather nicely. Medium lapels, patch or jetted pockets, single or double vent -- all of these will work, and they will make the blazer wearable for a long time.

I suggest this because there may be many occasions on which a proper navy blue blazer with brass buttons will be appropriate. It is the single most essential item in any man's wardrobe. Paired with light or dark grey worsteds, or with other colours and or patterns (houndstooth, checks or plaids), it can dress you for a large variety of occasions.
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Excellent choice! I think this fabric will make a great suit for your climate, and a versatile one at that.
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I have two 100% cotton/poplin summer suits from J Press (tan and olive) and another navy suit from Hart, Schaffner and Marx. These were all bought some years ago. I don't have a seersucker suit, but I have a couple of seersucker jackets, one blue, the other brown. I also have several tropical worsted suits and silk/wool or tussah silk odd jackets.

Wisconsin is usually cool in the summer, with only a small number of days when the temp gets into the high nineties. So there are often days where a worsted wool suit is comfortable. But it is all changing, with climate trends moving towards the warmer end.
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