Tailor please explain why some fused jackets are able to pass the pinch test above the breast pocket and others do not but have a matted feel which obiviousley indicate that there is fusing in the chest area. Also, why is it that some jackets have padded lapels but others do not?louche is right. there is no half canvas. its a part of the suit sales mens B*** S***. there is only two general constructions canvased and fused.
all canvased jackets have a built up area in the chest, its a part of the standard canvas construction. the canvas starts at the shoulder and goes all the way to the bottom.
all fused jackets are fused from the shoulder and goes all the way to the bottom. a chest piece is added to take the place of the built up area that is in a canvased jacket.
no one has shown me a half canvas to date. if someone can do this i will admit to this.
now someone will show up with a fused that has an extension in the lapels and that is not a half canvas.
It appears to me as a a laymen consumer that there is 3 levels of construction;
Full Canvass- which everyone seems to understands involves the use of multple layers of canvass material using horsehair or goathair fabric sewn into the body without the using of a bonding agent in the body of the coat.
Half Canvass- A floating chess piece that uses canvass material but does employ the fusing at the seems and does not feel matted above the breast pocket. These garments will likely have padded lapels as well that does not have a matted feel. The canvas material doe not extend below the midway point of the jacket.
Fully fused- no canvassing material used in the chest, and the jacket has a feels matted feeling above the breast pocket. The outer fabric can not be seperated from the inner linning and the lapels are not padded or, if they are, the fabric feels matted and can not be seperated or moved from the inner linning.