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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have searched the most recent relevant threads about HSM, but nothing much has been said in about 3 years. I very much like the "silhouette" of the suits on the HSM website, and they're reasonably priced. There is a HSM trunk show coming to my local Dillards in April. I've read they're a solid, respectable suit, but I'd like to get the best construction I can for the money.

Does HSM make a canvassed suit? The website says zippo about this.

What might I expect at a HSM trunk show? For some reason I doubt they'll be taking measurements for MTM, (not sure they do MTM?)

I've also just discovered that Brooks Brothers has really reasonable suits in their 1818 line. Is a $700 BB suit going to be better constructed than a $700 HSM?

Sorry for the scattergun of questions, and thanks for any replies.
 

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HSM does Made to Measure. Barack Obama used them for his made to measure suits. I know Hickey Freeman (owned by HSM is fully canvassed) I think their Gold Trumpter line might be, but I can't say for certain.

The $700 BB suits, are you talking about their BrooksEase or the 1818 suits on sale? If you're talking the BrooksEase, I'd go HSM probably. The 1818 is a pretty decent suit but not worth the $998 price tag in my opinion.
 

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HSM Gold Trumpter is very similar to the HF Collection in terms of quality and construction. I believe the HSM GT line has been discontinued. Picked up the last one in my hard to find 39R size at Dillard's Clearance sale for $250.

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HSM GT is half-canvas, I believe. I always thought that the regular HSM line was fused, but my recently-acquired HSM (non-GT) suit certainly feels half-canvassed to me, too.

Personally, I think they're really good suits for the price. I can usually pick up a GT line suit for $350 or less at Dillards on sale, and a Hickey would cost twice that for negligible difference in quality.

Dillards does MTM for HSM (about $800), but you'd better go to one of their bigger stores in a major city to make sure you get an experienced salesperson to handle the measurements. I don't trust the guys at my local Dillards to do it.

My first post! :)
 

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I have bought 2 HSM suits in the last 3 years and gathered quite a bit of information on them. The regular label HSM, sometimes called blue label, is fused but has a padded lapel, which essentially means just the lapel is canvas. As I understand, the line that was once called Gold Trumpeter, then Gold, and I believe now back to Gold Trumpeter was a true half canvas like Brooks Brother 1818, Coppley, or Jack Victor. Regular HSM sells for $695 and GT sells for $795.
 

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Too add....I think HSM is a good starting point for suits. I will however offer some suggestions. If you are buying off the rack suits, there is absolutely nothing wrong, and in fact quite a bit correct, about buying suits at Dillards. You can find great sales on HSM at Dillards. If you are going Made to Measure, I highly recommend going to a specialty store with highly experienced salesman and tailors to perform the measurements.

By far and away, the best store in your area is Bruce Baird. I have heard many things about them, and all are good. When it comes to suits in your price range, they have a couple of interesting options.

One is Graham and Gunn, which is made by HSM in the same factory as regular HSM suits. If you shop at Dillards often you are probably familiar with Austin Reed, which is another label made by HSM. Graham and Gunn is essentially Austin Reed, but relabeled for men's specialty stores and only offered in the more traditional colors and fabrics, nothing too trendy or busy looking. They will be about the same quality as regular HSM, but sell for $550 or so. Your paying quite a premium for the HSM "name", hence the lower Graham and Gunn price.

The other option is Southwick, which is one of the most respected labels on this forum. It is half canvas, and on par with HSM Gold Trumpeter. It should retail from $695 to $895, depending on the fabric. I even noticed that Bruce Baird is having a Southwick trunk show this Thursday. May be something worth looking into. I'm attaching a link to Bruce Baird's website.

https://www.brucebairdclothier.com/index.php
 

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I have two HSM suits. One, a Gold Trumpeter, is one of my favorites and probably the best suit bargain I have found. The other, a lesser model, only labeled HSM, is stiff and strange-feeling, a testament to why people don't like fused suits.
 

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Too add....I think HSM is a good starting point for suits. I will however offer some suggestions. If you are buying off the rack suits, there is absolutely nothing wrong, and in fact quite a bit correct, about buying suits at Dillards. You can find great sales on HSM at Dillards. If you are going Made to Measure, I highly recommend going to a specialty store with highly experienced salesman and tailors to perform the measurements.

By far and away, the best store in your area is Bruce Baird. I have heard many things about them, and all are good. When it comes to suits in your price range, they have a couple of interesting options.

One is Graham and Gunn, which is made by HSM in the same factory as regular HSM suits. If you shop at Dillards often you are probably familiar with Austin Reed, which is another label made by HSM. Graham and Gunn is essentially Austin Reed, but relabeled for men's specialty stores and only offered in the more traditional colors and fabrics, nothing too trendy or busy looking. They will be about the same quality as regular HSM, but sell for $550 or so. Your paying quite a premium for the HSM "name", hence the lower Graham and Gunn price.

The other option is Southwick, which is one of the most respected labels on this forum. It is half canvas, and on par with HSM Gold Trumpeter. It should retail from $695 to $895, depending on the fabric. I even noticed that Bruce Baird is having a Southwick trunk show this Thursday. May be something worth looking into. I'm attaching a link to Bruce Baird's website.

https://www.brucebairdclothier.com/index.php
If you buy a US-made suit from BB and it's not a Golden Fleece, chances are it will be a Southwick, as BB's parent company recently bought Southwick and moved it into a newer facility in MA:

The BrooksEase suits have always been made by Southwick. They aren't $700 suits, however, as they've listed for several years now at $598 ($420 for jacket, $178 for pants) and during the regular sales can be had for much less (I got my latest this past Boxing Day for a little less than $350, pre-tax).

BB makes its ties in NYC and its premium (Luxury and GF plus MTO and MTM) shirts in Garland, NC:

Note the intriguing item in the article on Southwick: It's planning to branch into outerwear. Very interesting . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Many thanks. That's all good news. The HSM website is sort of strange - no mention is made of "Gold Trumpeter" or any other levels of build. No mention is made of construction. Very little mention is made of a MTM program, in small print, when they discuss trunk shows.

Nolan - thanks very much for the link to Baird. I'm familiar with them, and would be at the trunk show except we're going on vacation. It may be another month or two before I'm ready to buy, thus the April trunk show for HSM seemed a good opportunity. I intend to make the show at Dillards and will probably order a suit. I will also swing by Bairds (I've heard nothing but good things about them) and see about Graham and Gunn.

Thanks again for the excellent advice.
 

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Hartmarx corp. is in the midst of filing for chapter 11. I have heard rumors that the HSM division may be bought by Men's Wearhouse. It's also rumored that Spencer Hays (COB of Individualized Apparel Group) is trying to buy up a few of the better brands under the Hartmarx umbrella like Hickey Freeman, HSM, and Bobby Jones. IAG is the parent company of Gitman Brothers, Kenneth Gordon, H. Freeman, Oxxford, and Corbin just to name a few.
 
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