For a number of years I had the opportunity to be involved with the development of H. Freeman made-to-measure program. Based on the label, the coat was produced in the Island Ave. facility before moving production to the English American facility in Westminster, MD. H. Freeman garments were and still are full canvas garments. They are about 80-90% hand tailored. The collar, sleeves, buttonholes, and lining are handsewn. They use a hymo canvas, sewn in by machine. However, this was for consistency in the soft feel.
Hart, Shaffner, & Marx typically were half canvas. However, when production was moved to the Peerless facility in the early 2000, after they were sold. I can not speak to.