[SamChevre]

I've been reading this forum for a decade. I work in a coat and tie type role, but recently decided that I should get another suit. (My current suit is a very classic Brooks Brothers suit that I've had for decades.) I'm finding it very difficult to find a good fit.

I'm looking for something in the $500-$800 range.

Here's the problem: I'm a tall, skinny runner and biker--so my legs are big relative to the rest of me. I wear slim-fit shirts, but trad-fit pleated pants--and usually with dress pants end up buying 38s and getting the waistband taken in to 36 to get the hips and thighs loose enough.

So the problem is, when I try on a suit, either the coats is way too big, or the pants are too tight.

Does anyone sell good-quality suit separates, or is made-to-measure my only option?

 

[drpeter]

I have a couple of thoughts regarding suits for a person who wants to add a single suit to his wardrobe. First, can you describe the suit you currently own a bit more? Brooks Brothers have changed over the years in some aspects of its styling. You state that your suit is a classic BB. Is your suit cut in a trad fashion, rather like a sack suit? Does it feature natural shoulders on an undarted jacket with medium lapels and a hook vent at the back? Are the trousers plain-front or pleated, and if pleated, are they forward-pleated in the English style or reverse-pleated? Do the trousers have turn-ups or cuffs, and if so, are they 1" or 1.5" in cuff width? Are the trouser legs baggy, medium, or tight? These details might help us understand the style of your current suit.

Assuming your suit is in a trad style, would you prefer to have another in the same style? And if you do, then I would suggest J Press in New Haven, Conn., and Cambridge, Mass., as your best option. Their ready-made models start in the $900-$1100 range, and go upwards, although they have a current sale with many suits going for $777. They also have a custom option, which might be the best for you since you have some problems with finding an easy fit for ready-made suits. Their custom suits start at the $1200 price point. You may want to give them a call and ask about the details, and see how well they can fit a man of your proportions. J Press makes suits that are classic and well-made. They have not changed the trad cut of their suits or sportcoats in seventy years.

https://jpressonline.com/pages/made-to-measure

A second place to shop for classic or trad style suits would be O'Connell's in Buffalo, NY. They have suits in the $600 - $900 price range, probably some more expensive ones as well. They offer custom trousers, although I did not see a custom suit option when I gave their website a quick glance. Here is their website:

https://oconnellsclothing.com/tailored/suits.html

There are less expensive options, like Lands' End YearRounders, or Joseph Bank, but the cut is going to be more contemporary and less classic. Personally, I would never buy one of the modern suits that seem to be all the rage nowadays: Very tight and short jacket with narrow lapels, a very low-waisted pair of trousers, also with narrow legs (in the drainpipe fashion that used to be a craze in the 1960s). I often see folks on TV in these suits with an isoceles triangle of white shirt front showing between the quarters of the jacket and the waistband of the trousers, and with the end of their necktie bisecting this triangle. In my humble opinion, it does not look good -- and that's putting it mildly. I hope I have not offended readers who are enamoured of this style. But if you like classic/trad suits, I would be surprised if you were an aficionado of said style!

Good luck, bonne chance, bien suerte, etc.

 

[drpeter]

One last point: What colour and material is your current suit? If it is dark blue or dark charcoal worsted, I would suggest a second suit made of a mid-grey or Oxford grey flannel. It is an extraordinarily versatile colour and material, and will go well with lots of shirts and ties. You can dress it up with a white spread collar shirt and a maroon foulard or two-tone repp tie; or you can dress it down with a large/medium tattersall shirt and a black or navy knit tie, Black and brown oxfords or wingtips go equally well with this suit. In fact, I would argue that an Oxford-grey, three-button flannel suit would be the first suit I would advise a young person to buy, if they don't have a suit and are starting to build a wardrobe. Along with the traditional blue blazer, such a suit will see you through everything from christenings through weddings to funerals, LOL.

 

[SamChevre]

Thank you for the detailed questions about my current suit.

It's either a slightly blue charcoal, or a very grey navy, worsted pinstripe. Natural shoulders (padded as I think of as typical for BB, not structured), center (not hook) vent, medium lapels, undarted. The trousers are double reverse pleated, with baggy legs, hemmed (not cuffed).

The problem is that I would wear a tailored/slim fit jacket in 42 Long or Extra Long, but a traditional/looser fit trouser with a 38 inch waist--and that's too little drop for any standard suit.

 

[richard warren]

Have you tried...Brooks Brothers suit separates?

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/BrooksGate-Suit-Separates/men-brooksgate,default,sc.html

 

[drpeter]

Thank you for the detailed questions about my current suit.

It's either a slightly blue charcoal, or a very grey navy, worsted pinstripe. Natural shoulders (padded as I think of as typical for BB, not structured), center (not hook) vent, medium lapels, undarted. The trousers are double reverse pleated, with baggy legs, hemmed (not cuffed).

The problem is that I would wear a tailored/slim fit jacket in 42 Long or Extra Long, but a traditional/looser fit trouser with a 38 inch waist--and that's too little drop for any standard suit.

I think @richard warren's suggestion about the Brooksgate suit separates is good -- provided you like the modern cut with a tighter jacket and narrower trouser legs. The cost is just under $500 for a suit made up of separates, very reasonable. I took a look at the images on the site he referenced, and the trousers appear to have a reasonable rise, so the shirt and tie does not show very much in the middle. Since you are tall and slim, the modern suit's silhouette might be appropriate for you. Once again, do try to talk to J Press and O'Connell's. The Andover Shop (you can google it easily) is also a good place for classic, trad-cut suits.

 

[DCR]

Just go to the Southwick Factory store in Haverhill and order one through their Made to Order program. Search them on facebook as they currently have a $155 off coupon valid through 4/1. I've had three 3 piece suits done up and essentially recreated the Brooks Bros no.1 sack suit using a Douglas jacket, waist coat and plain front trousers. With the coupon a three piece will prob cost about $400 dollars and be the made by the same hands that produce BB's 1818 line.

 

[drpeter]

Just go to the Southwick Factory store in Haverhill and order one through their Made to Order program. Search them on facebook as they currently have a $155 off coupon valid through 4/1. I've had three 3 piece suits done up and essentially recreated the Brooks Bros no.1 sack suit using a Douglas jacket, waist coat and plain front trousers. With the coupon a three piece will prob cost about $400 dollars and be the made by the same hands that produce BB's 1818 line.

Splendid suggestion! I had no idea Southwick had an outlet in Haverhill. Those prices are a real value, especially for a customised three-piece suit made in the US. My brother, who lived for years in Cambridge, Mass., is now living in a lovely retirement community in Hingham, about half an hour south of Boston. It is also about an hour and a half from Haverhill, driving mostly on I-93. On my next visit to see him, I will plan a day trip to Hingham, and hopefully obtain a couple of fine suits for myself. In years past. I shopped at J Press and Andover, both having outlets in Cambridge, when visiting my brother. Maybe he'll pick a suit up for himself too, when we visit the Southwick outlet!

 

[dukekook]

Just a reminder to J. Press shoppers that the Cambridge J. Press closed a year or so ago.

 

[drpeter]

Just a reminder to J. Press shoppers that the Cambridge J. Press closed a year or so ago.

Ah, thanks for the reminder, @dukekook. Air travel isn't easy for me these days, and I haven't been to Cambridge in a couple of years, so this is sad news, but good to know about. I very much enjoyed the J Press shop and the staff there who were very friendly and helpful. In related news (I'm sure I have seen discussions of this on our site here) J Press do outsource manufacture of their clothes to other countries now, although I think they still make some items like suits in-house. Do correct me if I am wrong on this.

 

[David J. Cooper]

I am about to pull the trigger on a linen suit separate suit from Cordings. If anyone thinks I am crazy let me know soon.

 

[drpeter]

Cordings has a good reputation. Do they have shops or outlets in Canada?

Is the linen suit 100% linen, or is it a mix of linen with cotton or wool? A mix might be better in terms of wrinkles, since linen is very susceptible to that. Unless, of course, one likes the wrinkled look!

 

[drpeter]

I've been reading this forum for a decade. I work in a coat and tie type role, but recently decided that I should get another suit. (My current suit is a very classic Brooks Brothers suit that I've had for decades.) I'm finding it very difficult to find a good fit.

I'm looking for something in the $500-$800 range.

Here's the problem: I'm a tall, skinny runner and biker--so my legs are big relative to the rest of me. I wear slim-fit shirts, but trad-fit pleated pants--and usually with dress pants end up buying 38s and getting the waistband taken in to 36 to get the hips and thighs loose enough.

So the problem is, when I try on a suit, either the coats is way too big, or the pants are too tight.

Does anyone sell good-quality suit separates, or is made-to-measure my only option?

One more suggestion: Ben Silver of Charleston, SC. While I don't have their suits, I have bought other items from them like trousers, sweaters, neckties and G-9 jackets. The quality of their stock is excellent. The items are usually of English or American make. The cut of their clothes is not strictly trad, but close. Some folks call them Southern Trad.

 

[David J. Cooper]

Cordings has a good reputation. Do they have shops or outlets in Canada?

Is the linen suit 100% linen, or is it a mix of linen with cotton or wool? A mix might be better in terms of wrinkles, since linen is very susceptible to that. Unless, of course, one likes the wrinkled look!

I bought it from the website last night. I have been to the store in London recently and purchased some trousers. I trust the quality and when you add it up, it is a very good price, even with shipping etc.

I would appreciate your's and others input on it:

https://www.cordings.co.uk/navy-linen-jacket.html

 

[drpeter]

I bought it from the website last night. I have been to the store in London recently and purchased some trousers. I trust the quality and when you add it up, it is a very good price, even with shipping etc.

I would appreciate your's and others input on it:

https://www.cordings.co.uk/navy-linen-jacket.html

I take it the jacket you ordered matched the trousers. I looked at the website information for the jacket and the matching trousers. They both seem excellent, and I really like the three button front and surgeon's cuffs for the jacket. Perhaps the heavier Italian linen will be less likely to wrinkle, you'll have to let us know once you get the jacket and wear it once or twice. I agree that the price is quite reasonable. Good luck with this suit.

 

[David J. Cooper]

Yes I ordered the pants as well, makes it a suit I think. Never sure about these things.

I need a suit for a summer wedding and we may spend a month or so in the Palm Springs area this coming winter. I haven’t had a suit in years and they offer this one in 50L which is my size. I think the cut is very traditional British.

 

[drpeter]

I have spent time in the Palm Springs area (with friends in Indio), mostly in spring. Even in March and April, the temperatures tend to get high. The summer simply has to be hot with temperatures in the 90s and 100s. So your linen suit would be ideal.

 

[Fading Fast]

J.Crew sells all its suits as separates (but oddly doesn't advertise them that way):

https://www.jcrew.com/c/mens_category/suits_tuxedos

 

[mhardy]

Contact Carl at menssuitseparates.com. I purchased an H. Freeman sack suit from him and I'm very pleased with it.

 

[Fading Fast]

I don't know if the OP Is still looking, but today I received an email from J.Crew and it looks as if they just got in a lot of new spring suit separates.