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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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I have mixed feelings about this.

The construction looks good (I've seen it in person). I presume it is made by Greenfield. But the notch lapels were an unfortunate choice. Between those and the rather extended shoulders, the visual effect is very much like adding tails to the standard Golden Fleece lounge suit ... which is a very nice suit, but not what I'm looking for in a morning coat.

On the other hand I'm glad it is available at all.

I have no need for a morning coat, but if I did, and time permitted, I'd rather find a vintage example or bespeak one in a heavier cloth that looks less like a lounge coat.
 

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Pleat front trousers. No view of the vest at all (and the coat barely shows enough). Notch lapels. Not exactly traditional... I'm surprised they even did the waist seam! Not sure of their quality, but on styling alone I think Pakeman beats this hands down. Thoughts?
The GF morning coat is not perfect, true. I'm not sure if the Pakeman one is that much better. Looks like it has pretty big shoulders and, at least in this photo, very wide lapels. The link front is a nice touch, though.
 

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Sator, you have argued (and provided pictorial evidence) that notched lapels are traditional on dinner jackets--but that the DJ's subsequent elevation in formality has made the notched lapel less desirable. I think the same argument can be made regarding morning coats.
 

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Sator, you have argued (and provided pictorial evidence) that notched lapels are traditional on dinner jackets--but that the DJ's subsequent elevation in formality has made the notched lapel less desirable. I think the same argument can be made regarding morning coats.
Yes, more desirable, but there are countless examples of morning coats with step collars. However, worn as formal wear it is certainly preferable to have one with pointed lapels - especially so on one button models. I must admit that when morning coats last regularly took step collars, they were usually two or three button models.
 

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This picture from an early 20th century German textbook for cutters illustrates things well:



The two and three button models have step collars, but the one button version has double breasted styled lapels. The full scan of the two pages would have shown a fourth figure on the far right - in a frock coat. I guess this represents a pecking order from left to right of degrees of formality of morning coats (used in the wider sense of coats worn with morning dress).

So with that, I guess I will have to conclude that the model in the opening post is incorrect in that it's a mongrel of a coat that mixes the one button closure and step collar. The problem is not the step collar per se.

Here is something AA/Esky that conforms to this system as well:

 

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That's a very interesting scan from the German book, Sator. The lapels on the single button coat are not the same as typical peak lapels; they are a bit more subdued, but still more than a notch lapel. I rather like them. Have they a name of their own? Is it a local style? Forgotten style? Something between an M-lapel and and a peak lapel?

Thanks,
pbc
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
True, I've seen the notched lapel on a lot of old illustrations. Same with the shawl, which I think looks just plain bad with the cutaway style. I guess I should have said that I'd prefer such a coat with peaks instead since it differentiates it from lounge coats. I'd feel pretty weird getting married in a notched morning coat.

Taliesin: The large shoulders are a good observation, but personally I like and prefer wide peak lapels. Somehow it looks more formal to my eye.
 

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The late Hardy Amies would argue that a morning coat, being a single breasted coat, should only take single breasted revers (notched lapel) and not double breasted revers (peaked lapels).

Isn't the third one along more of a Tautz lapel?


Leon
 

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Also worth mentioning that pleated morning trousers are not untraditional.

My own morning coat is, as Sator mentions, three-button with a notched lapel, and there are plenty of vintage notched-lapel examples available, but I would choose one-button peak for preference.

(Here it is : )

 
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