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Gino vs. Hemrajani vs. Cable Car Clothier(SF)

3.4K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  erdavis  
#1 · (Edited)
I need to buy a few sports jackets and looked at the online calendar and determined these people are coming to town or have shops in the Bay Area.

My dilema is this. I am not too particular on cost (about 1k each is my budget), I want great fabric and I need a good quality product with good fit.

To cap off my wish list, I need someone who can measure me and help me to make some good decisions. I am no genius with the finer nuisances of pleats, pocket types or the underlying mechanics of sports jacket engineering.

Any suggestion on which option is best OR any advice on what I need to be asking for.
 
#3 ·
Suggestion

I agree on Cable Car. As far as I'm concerned it's
a musty old clothing museum with grossly overpriced
merchandise.

You should check out Jeremys on 2nd and South Park.
Jeremy's is a high end discounter. High-end as in
Zegna Couture(sp?), Oxxford, Brioni, etc.

Another option is the newly resurrected Bullock and
Jones on Post St. They are having a Samuelsohn Trunk
show in a week or two.

There's also the Hound on Sutter for trad and semi trad.
 
#4 ·
+1 for The Hound. They carry a number of things that have an Anglo bent to them. It was in SF last August and stopped in without knowing the store just because I saw their sale signs posted. They have, among others, H. Freeman and Samuelsohn RTW. One of the proprietors (can't remember the name) greeted us and let us roam about without interruption. He has a good eye and knows when to strike, though! As I was ambling over to look at jackets he pulled out a great H. Freeman shetland tweed with dual exhaust, 3/2.5 roll and ticket pocket. I tried it on and the sale was made. About two weeks later, the jacket arrived by courier with alterations complete. The packaging was very thorough and the jacket was not folded but could actually hang from its hanger, so it was not the least rumpled on its way out. Good, friendly but unobtrusive staff and good service. The jacket has seen heavy use over the fall/winter.

Perhaps that was more information than you really wanted, but I had a very good experience and thought I got very good value.
 
#5 ·
I have seen the CCC web site and they are indeed expensive.

As for Hemrajani, I own and like their shirts. I passed on the suits as the numerous posts of Hemrajani's suits on this board, save Andy's, fit poorly at best.

You mentioned a third purveyor of which I know nothing.

The key for you is to find a good affordable local shop. Skip the itinerant Indians for the suits.
 
#6 ·
You might add W. W. Chan to your list, though I don't know what their travel schedule looks like.

Cable Car is about the worst value imaginable, if that matters to you.
Chan is provisionally scheduled to next be in San Francisco July 22 and 23.

They are generally regarded as being the best of the Hong Kong tailors that tour. I have been extremely satisfied with their services.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all the posts. WW Chan did a great job for me many years ago while in Shanghei.

I may try some trousers from one of the other two touring guys (Gino and Hemranjani. Depends on how the fabric selection looks.

Cable Car Clothier quoted me out at $995 for a Southwick jacket in the E line. Since I am naive I have no idea how good or bad this price is. Any thoughts anyone on what the market value is of this.

I totally agree with comrades comment on the store. It is an odd place. Never saw anyone in there much, but what a high rent area.

The biggest question is can Cable Car Clothier be trusted to measure my jacket right. IF I pay for sky high prices I want something that is a piece of art when I am done, or at least the right size.
 
#8 ·
Cable Car Clothier quoted me out at $995 for a Southwick jacket in the E line. Since I am naive I have no idea how good or bad this price is. Any thoughts anyone on what the market value is of this.
As a point of reference, Brooks Brothers uses Southwick to make their suits and sport coats in the US. Typical jacket prices are under $500 and suits are $900 or less.
 
#9 ·
As a point of reference, Brooks Brothers uses Southwick to make their suits and sport coats in the US. Typical jacket prices are under $500 and suits are $900 or less.
I appreciate the tip. I have decide to take a different approach, I am going to order a sports jacket while IN Hong Kong from Hemranjani and possible a few shirts from WW Chan.
 
#10 ·
Coda on Cable car

A year or two ago someone in one of the few remaining
independent clothing stores in San Francisco commented that
the owner of Cable Car was an elderly gentleman who kept
the store as a hobby,more or less. According to this informant,
Cable Car's owner had prospered in San Francisco Real Estate
over the years. I am sure I have seen said gentleman in the
store. If I am correct, he's trim, in is 70s, and well dressed
in round collar with a pin, narrow tie, 1950s Ivy League, way.
 
#12 ·
As a point of reference, Brooks Brothers uses Southwick to make their suits and sport coats in the US. Typical jacket prices are under $500 and suits are $900 or less.
True, however it is worth noting that most if not all Cable Cars Southwicks are made fully convassed, as opposed to the BB ones which are 1/2. I believe they are the only store that Southwick fully canvasses their jackets for.
 
#13 ·
To tag onto abc123's last comment, when I toured the Southwick facilities a few years ago (I used to manage a shop that sold Southwick), I was told that Brooks Brothers sets their price and Southwick adjusts their workmanship accordingly. In other words, the Southwick RTW and MTM for shops like mine carrying the merchandise under the Southwick label is a better product than the Brooks labeled Southwick.
 
#14 ·
Cable Car Clothiers

Gents
I think that CCC offers real trad, sack 3 button, garments in a way that no one else on the West Coast does. It's definitely a place to see and support. Sometimes you guys get so in the weeds on this stuff, that perspective is lost. I would say that for the OP, who was looking for guidance, he will get great service and have a great, old school, experience at Cable Car. The thought of someone who needs advice going to Jeremy's is ridiculous. While the occasional, and i mean occasional bargain may be found, much of what they have are MTM and custom pieces that were returns and sizing is a guess.

Small, independent retail needs to be supported in menswear...If a store like CCC was to shutter, because of the need to shop by price, and price only, it would be a shame.
MJ
 
#15 ·
To tag onto abc123's last comment, when I toured the Southwick facilities a few years ago (I used to manage a shop that sold Southwick), I was told that Brooks Brothers sets their price and Southwick adjusts their workmanship accordingly. In other words, the Southwick RTW and MTM for shops like mine carrying the merchandise under the Southwick label is a better product than the Brooks labeled Southwick.
The only reason I ever heard of Southwick was that they carried really nice super heavy fabric. Imagine you are working in a place cold as **** and you need some 12 oz pants. I first found their clothes at Jay Kos in NYC and was happy with the quality. I never knew that Southwick ever made anything in the RTW suit range, my only association with them was in a MTM arena in very heavy patterns.

PS: When I bought Southwick pants I did get skinned alive for $465 at Jay Kos, then I purchased from Richard Bryan in Wilmington, NC for $325.

The problem is that companies make so many grades that its hard to tell by a name alone.

In my case I was looking at the E line. I am going to drop a note to the guy on the card at CCC and ask him if the jaciet is fully canvased.

Thanks mfj20th, jsgoode, abc123and others for all the advice. Getting some honest feedback is a big help. :)