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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, just joined this forum today.

I went today to get my first custom-made suit, my measurements were taken today and basic specifications regarding my suit such as type of lapel, vent, cut, lining, pocket were stated.

However specific details such as amount of shoulder pad I prefer, number of buttons on the cuff, and desire of surgeon cuffs were not specified. Will these specific details be mentioned in my fitting which is in 2 weeks time or those are the things I should mention before my fitting?

Thank you for your expert opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok thx guys.. btw how is the custom suit process ? from what i understand it is - first the measurements is taken (not sure what that step is called) then it comes to the first fitting where the foundation of the suit is fitted on.. and after some months the suit is complete for the 2nd fitting and small alterations are made.. is this how it's done?
 

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There's always going to be some variance between different makers and different styles (e.g. MTM, custom, Bespoke). It sounds like your suit is being made in a more bespoke style with a canvas fitting, where the jacket will be rather unfinished, probably not even having sleeves on or all the fabric on, so that the tailor can get the shoulder size etc. down. Then you'll have another fitting that is further along in the process where you can really begin to see the suit take shape, and probably a final fitting to finish small details. None of this is hard set, as there may be more fittings needed to work out a problem, etc.

I tend to think it's good to mention what you want to the tailor upfront so that they cut proper allowances for the details you'd like. Not all the details are cut by the first fitting, but it never hurts to mention it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There's always going to be some variance between different makers and different styles (e.g. MTM, custom, Bespoke). It sounds like your suit is being made in a more bespoke style with a canvas fitting, where the jacket will be rather unfinished, probably not even having sleeves on or all the fabric on, so that the tailor can get the shoulder size etc. down. Then you'll have another fitting that is further along in the process where you can really begin to see the suit take shape, and probably a final fitting to finish small details. None of this is hard set, as there may be more fittings needed to work out a problem, etc.

I tend to think it's good to mention what you want to the tailor upfront so that they cut proper allowances for the details you'd like. Not all the details are cut by the first fitting, but it never hurts to mention it.
so basically what u mean is the "true bespoke" style would be where the first fitting wld be without the sleeves etc, then the 2nd fitting wld have some add-ons followed by a 3rd fitting with more add-ons till a final stage where it is complete? i called up my tailor and they said that the surgeon cuffs can be mentioned at the fitting, so thats solved..

is the initial measurement stage considered a fitting ? once the suit is fully made and the customer goes in and tries it - is it also called a fitting ? tq..
 

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Bespoke or Made-To-Measure

It sounds like you are having a bespoke suit made. There are typically 3 to 6 appointments needed to perfect the suit.

If you were to have had a made to measure suit created for you then all of the measurements and style points would have to be done upfront. Some modifications could be made but that is not why you had the suit made in the first place. Functional buttons are definitely something you need to plan ahead for whereas shoulder padding can be swapped out. However if you can plan for the shoulder padding ahead of time that is always your best bet.

Enjoy the suit!

Jeff Collins, Professional Haberdasher
https://www.myhaberdasher.com
 
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