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Dear sartorial friends - I apologize if this topic has been beaten down like a dead horse but it seems that not all shoulder divots are caused by the same issue so I wanted to see if anyone can figure out mine. I've purchased many suits in my lifetime, some MTM from Ralph Lauren, some bespoke from WW Chan, some MTM from Oliver Wicks...but I've never encountered persistent shoulder divots until MTM from Lanieri. I'm on my 5th jacket from them and I've tweaked various measurements, settings, etc. after each one to no avail. Why do I keep ordering from them? Well, I actually like their fabric selections, style and craftsmanship. And the second order I got was a blazer which fit like a glove and had NO shoulder divots - I think it's because it's unstructured. After that blazer, I tried ordering a jacket with spalla camicia style thinking that it would closely mimic the blazer but...shoulder divots. Then, I increased my armholes and sleeve widths by 1 cm....shoulder divots. Then, I widened my shoulders by 1.5 cm...shoulder divots (my typical shoulder width on my other suits is 47 cm and my Lanieri suits were 45.5 cm so I figured why not try).
I've taken each one to my tailor and he would be puzzled but able to fold up some excess fabric near the sleeve heads and sew it down to make it look presentable but not perfect. Lanieri's customer service is generally very prompt and helpful but they've finally thrown in the towel and just said, there's nothing further they can do.
So, I wanted to see if anyone has any other ideas on what could be causing this. My right should divot is always more pronounced than the left. I've been told my right shoulder slopes more than my left (Lanieri has already made my right shoulder slope 1 cm lower than my left). I'm also right handed and I think my right deltoid and biceps are bulkier than my left.
I'd appreciate your expert opinions. Thanks! Outerwear Dress shirt Neck Sleeve Street fashion
Jeans Outerwear Dress shirt Neck Sleeve
Jeans Outerwear Shoulder Coat Dress shirt
Outerwear Arm Dress shirt Human body Neck
 

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Quoting tailor JefferyD from Styleforum

This one keeps coming up and most people are mistaken about the causes so here's a detailed look at what causes shoulder divots or dents.

First, the divots have nothing to do with the width of the shoulder- we often hear people making comments about a shoulder being too wide because it is denting but this is not the cause. Look at old photos of Tommy Nutter's work- you can't get much wider than that and they don't dent.

Second, the divots have nothing to do with the amount of shoulder padding; again, you can tons of it and not have dents, and you can have dents on an unpadded shoulder.

THIS is what causes the divots.

The armhole must be cut in the right shape for the body of the wearer. The sleeve is then cut in a very precise relationship to the armhole. In the figure below, the height of the armhole dictates the height of the sleeve cap and the width of the armhole dictates the width of the sleeve cap. We'll say that distance a-b must be equal to e-f and distance c-d must be equal to g-h (for the super geeks, this is not the actual formula but we'll say it is for simplicity).

If you put on a jacket whose armhole has not been cut wide enough for you, or that the chest pulls because it is too tight (or a host of other reasons the armhole may distort) the armhole will contract- it will get wider and shorter. The sleeve cap is now too long and narrow (a-b is shorter than e-f and c-d is wider than g-h) so it pulls from front to back, and the extra length collapses. THIS is what causes the divot.

The only way to try to remedy this is to remove the sleeve and shorten the cap (cut away excess length); this will, in some cases, be sufficient, but in many cases you also need some extra width to the sleeve cap, which you will not be able to gain since there is no outlet for it. This is neither easy nor cheap so your average dry-cleaner alterations tailor may not be able to do it.

The only way to know if a jacket is gong to do this is to try it on. If it dents, try a size up or try a different maker.

 

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As @delicious_scent posted, the armhole isn't right. It's too narrow and is being pulled out of shape.

The fit of the jacket's rear is significantly off. Notice how the vents are flaring out? They should look vertical from the side.

The button stance also looks about 1.5-2 inches too high.

I don't have confidence that they can make a jacket any better for your body.
 
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