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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Four major details that I haven't noticed modern tailors incorporating into their suit designs, at least not Ralph Lauren, Hickey Freeman, Zegna, BB... and more.

1. It is all about the armholes. The higher the armhole is to your armpit, the more maneuverable you will be in the suit. Vintage suits had high cut armholes and felt like a shirt when worn. Very comfy. Modern tailors go more for the drape than fit from my experiences, and make the armholes big enough for 5 arms.

2. Extra beltloop right next to the fly. This belt loop which may look out of place to the modern observer is very useful in keeping the buckle of the belt in place right above the fly. Todays trousers do not have this loop and the buckle tends to hover above and below the waist.

3. Diagonal stitched pleats. Vintage trouser pleats had stitching that went from the waistband to about a half inch downward into the pleat. This allowed the pleat to hold its shape part way down which helps keep the crease. Modern pleats are simply sewn into the waistband and given no such special stitch a care or thought.

4. Long zipper flys. High waisted pants need long fly openings, most modern makers make the opening on their low waisted pants the same length as the opening on their high waisted pants. Very inconvenient.

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