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In London, forward is standard. Reverse is more American (or Italian).
 

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A question for the very untechnical guy. I've heard it both ways so now I'm a little confused, which my wife says is a common state of mind for me. :icon_smile: Do reverse pleats have the opening facing the fly or facing the side pocket? Does one type have the effect of adding bulk?
 

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In London, forward is standard. Reverse is more American (or Italian).
Where? I can only think of Hackett, Cordings and Roderick Charles who offer them RTW as standard and even they seem to be offering more flat front options.
I think the reason is that the forward pleat works best with braces and a higher rise and the reverse is more "flattering" on lower rise trousers.

W_B
 

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I have worn both forward and reverse plus plain front....

I don't see a lot of difference in the two pleats as long as you are not bulky or overweight. The reverse pleat probably works better for the paunchy since the pleat pulls in the direction which tends to close the pleat. I prefer one pleat or plain front. I wear all my trousers on my waist, not my hips, and wear braces with all except cotton casual pants.
 

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A question for the very untechnical guy. I've heard it both ways so now I'm a little confused, which my wife says is a common state of mind for me. :icon_smile: Do reverse pleats have the opening facing the fly or facing the side pocket? Does one type have the effect of adding bulk?
Forward pleats open toward the Fly.
Reverse pleats open toward the Rear.
Amrite?
 

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Does one type have the effect of adding bulk?
As one who benefits from vast experience with this issue, no. Some have claimed that pleats tend to be less flattering for a larger man. The opposite is true, no matter how many fashion articles you may read over the next several years proclaiming the slimming effect of trousers without pleats.

More knowledgeable people have recommended reverse pleats as being more desirable for stout men, compared to forward pleats. Again, not in my experience. I have found that properly fitted forward pleat slacks will lay flatter than reverse pleats, which is beneficial. They also tend to bisect the belly on a more vertical axis, and closer in, than reverse pleats. This is also helpful, again with the proviso that the slacks are properly fitted.
 

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As one who benefits from vast experience with this issue, no. Some have claimed that pleats tend to be less flattering for a larger man. The opposite is true, no matter how many fashion articles you may read over the next several years proclaiming the slimming effect of trousers without pleats.

More knowledgeable people have recommended reverse pleats as being more desirable for stout men, compared to forward pleats. Again, not in my experience. I have found that properly fitted forward pleat slacks will lay flatter than reverse pleats, which is beneficial. They also tend to bisect the belly on a more vertical axis, and closer in, than reverse pleats. This is also helpful, again with the proviso that the slacks are properly fitted.
+1.

Flat front can end up pulling at the pockets if you have large legs, and reverse pleats tend to look (IMO) a bit sloppy. Forward pleats, if cut well, slim the leg line and give a lot of extra room for pockets, etc. If hung from braces, even more so.
 

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Except, maybe, Gieves and Hawkes, Spencer Hart, Boetang, 40 Savile Row, Ede and Ravenscroft, Richard James, William Hunt, Alexandre, Mark Marengo and Gary Anderson...

W_B
Strange. I was under the impression Gieves of all firms would have forward pleats.
 

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As one who benefits from vast experience with this issue, no. Some have claimed that pleats tend to be less flattering for a larger man. The opposite is true, no matter how many fashion articles you may read over the next several years proclaiming the slimming effect of trousers without pleats.

More knowledgeable people have recommended reverse pleats as being more desirable for stout men, compared to forward pleats. Again, not in my experience. I have found that properly fitted forward pleat slacks will lay flatter than reverse pleats, which is beneficial. They also tend to bisect the belly on a more vertical axis, and closer in, than reverse pleats. This is also helpful, again with the proviso that the slacks are properly fitted.
So, if you're slim does it matter what way they face? I'm wearing reverse now and I look very slim.
 

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I see more advantages in forward pleats, and so do the traditional Savile Row firms. It's the ones selling a lot off the pegs that make the reverse pleats because they usually fit better that way. When pulled, they don't flare open like forward pleats. IMHO, forward pleats harmonize much better with the leg creases and give a much better drape. I find they are also more slimming because the eye is drawn inward, whereas on reverse pleats the eye is drawn outward. But this is only the case when the trousers fit properly. The bespoke Savile Row firms recognise this and are able to achieve the fit that is needed.
 

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I see more advantages in forward pleats, and so do the traditional Savile Row firms. It's the ones selling a lot off the pegs that make the reverse pleats because they usually fit better that way. When pulled, they don't flare open like forward pleats. IMHO, forward pleats harmonize much better with the leg creases and give a much better drape. I find they are also more slimming because the eye is drawn inward, whereas on reverse pleats the eye is drawn outward. But this is only the case when the trousers fit properly. The bespoke Savile Row firms recognise this and are able to achieve the fit that is needed.
I think that's an excellent description of the advantages of forward pleats and the of the importance of proper cut and fit to their appearance.
 

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From Thomas Mahon's POV, the forward pleat is slimming because it seems to throw less fabric toward the hips. I can see that for myself, because I have a pair of cotton khakis with forward pleats. Compared to the reverse pleated ones I've worn before, they look better even when unironed.

I like the look of the single forward pleat. Very sleek. Mahon insists on double in his dressing well in RTW guide. I'm not sure why. Personal preference?
 
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