[Troones]

Specifically I'm thinking of sport coats and blazers. I lost a lot of weight after purchasing a nice herringbone tweed in light tan/grey. Sure, I have a couple in my current size but not in that particular shade. Due to a slight rebound in weight I think I could get away with wearing my larger jacket. I kept it for this very reason.

So my question really is: How large of a jacket would you wear if at all? A size too big? Two sizes too big? Naturally slim gents feel free to chime in.

 

[medhat]

I lean (pun intended!) towards being frugal, and to be honest it is stylistically a bad choice. Was just thinking about needing to thin my limited wardrobe space of clothes that I bought that are too big, too outdated, or simply not my current style preference. If you're tailoring clothes to fit the "new" you I'd suggest if it's any more than two sizes then jettison it.

 

[Fading Fast]

Since you asked, sport coats need to fight right in the shoulders to look good IMO; hence, there is only one size that works, the size that fits your shoulders. Hence, I don't see a lot of wiggle room here. To be sure, even though I'm a 40L, I can "get away with" a 41L or 39L if they lean a touch to the 40L fit, but that's about it.

A too-lose in the shoulders jacket looks sloppy. You did a good thing losing weight and I know it's hard to keep it off, so no judgment here, but as to sport coats, I just don't see a lot of room to play.

 

[Matt S]

Good thing with a sports coat is that if you've gone down a size, you can put on a sweater to help fill it out.

 

[Color 8]

If you're wearing it over a sweater or heavy shirt and it's a style that looks Ok (heavy tweed sport jacket vs blue wool blazer, for instance) I don't see why not.
Sometimes it's nice to have one or two big, comfy pieces available.

 

[momsdoc]

I’ll echo FF above. With jackets and coats, it’s the shoulder fit that is important. Numerical sizes are just a guide.
My wardrobe varies from 38 to 40 short and regular depending on the cut. All have similar shoulder widths, not varying by more than a half inch. Once your are off by more than one size, the shoulders will never be correct.

More often than not, in the cold weather I will be sporting a vest or thin Merino sweater beneath any of them. A chunky sweater will only work with those with shoulders to the wider extreme of my tolerances.

You can taper your Herringbone if the shoulders fit well enough.

To prevent my having wasted a ton of money on a new wardrobe after a 68 Lb weight loss, I took every Single item of clothing I owned to a Salvation Army clothing drop. Wall to wall, drawer to draw, shelf to shelf, I disposed of it all.

Now I am forced to maintain my weight within tight parameters, +/- 4 lbs of my self imposed “ideal” weight. January will be 7 years and counting. The thought of having wasted tens of thousands of Dollars, and having to spend the time and money on replacing my wardrobe is an even bigger motivation than knowing I look good in the slimmer sizes.

It takes courage, but once you’ve done it, and had a couple of drinks to calm your nerves, you will feel satisfaction that you’ve purged your “fat clothes”. For then there is no going back.

 

[JBierly]

With a bit of rebound probably a jacket one size too big will work. If the shoulders are so big that you are swimming in it then I wouldn't go there - it just will never look correct. If you really love the jacket, take it to a good tailor and have him look at it. See if he can bring it in a bit or perhaps move the buttons, or a little of both.

 

[SG_67]

Within reason, the shoulders can be altered and trimmed down as well. It’s not cheap, but it can be done.

 

[JBierly]

I didn't really answer the question - I used to be a 44 - now I am more of a 41/42 but I still have to let the chest out on my most fitted OTR jackets because my chest is disproportionately larger than my shoulders. I have one jacket from a fatter state that I still wear but its a 43 so not a whole lot bigger than where I am now.

 

[JBierly]

Within reason, the shoulders can be altered and trimmed down as well. It's not cheap, but it can be done.

Agree - and if you are talking an expensive jacket then it makes sense.

 

[Dhaller]

My basic rule is that you have about one size of "wiggle room" (so a 40L can handle a 42), especially with layering. Tweed is relatively forgiving, because it suits itself to a frumpier fit (compared to typical suiting, or a hunt check or things like that.)

Of course, there's always just increasing shoulder size? "New Years Resolutions" are a month away. You can add two inches in 6 months of consistent work!

DH

 

[Fading Fast]

...he thought of having wasted tens of thousands of Dollars, and having to spend the time and money on replacing my wardrobe is an even bigger motivation than knowing I look good in the slimmer sizes.
...

Love it - whatever works is good. And the slim you looks good.

My dad had two wardrobes (not really, but you'll understand), his "regular" clothes and his "fat" ones (his words). To be fair to him, he was a big guy - broad shoulders, big boned and 6'4" - who fluctuated from his "regular" weight of 215 - 220lbs up to 240lbs. He also said he'd never go higher as he wouldn't spend for a third wardrobe and, in truth, his "fat" wardrobe was made up of all old clothes as he never bought clothes when he yo-yo'd up to his heavy weight.

Since it's always about me: God forbid my 6'1" 150lbs, narrow shoulders, small-boned frame had inherited any of his bigger frame. That's what a 5'3" (she claims, but she's shorter) 100lb mother will do to a big man's gene pool. Heck, at least I got most of his height and her weight - think if it had gone the other way .

Within reason, the shoulders can be altered and trimmed down as well. It's not cheap, but it can be done.

This is true, but my experience is that the cost is very high when, many years ago, I looked into it. Also, I was warned that it takes a truly skilled tailor who can, basically, redo a lot of the upper part of the garment with real craftsmanship and experience.

I don't remember the price quotes anymore, but - at least in NYC - I remember thinking I could almost (not quite) buy a new OTR BB sport coat for about the same price as the alteration.

SG_67 knows more about this than I do, so I'm just adding my old impressions.

 

[SG_67]

I’m fortunate that I have found an excellent alterations tailor in Chicago. Maria who is the proprietor of Golden Needle on State just north of Chicago ave.

I’ve been using her for years and she’s never let me down. I wish I could tell you the cost of her individual services but she doesn’t have posted pricing anywhere.

I take in what I need to have altered. She does the pinning, I leave it with her. Before I pick up, I call to see how much so I can bring the correct amount (cash or check only....Maria doesn’t do credit cards) and everything is done right.

unorthodox? Yes. But worth every penny!

 

[richard warren]

Apply jacket. Look in mirror. If looks ridiculous, remove jacket. If not, wear jacket.

If uncertain as to whether it looks ridiculous, it does not look ridiculous.

 

[ran23]

You guys are lucky, still trying to get over that my seamstress retired. Haven't found anyone to take her place yet.

 

[drlivingston]

Now I am forced to maintain my weight within tight parameters, +/- 4 lbs of my self imposed "ideal" weight. January will be 7 years and counting.

7 years at a maintenance weight. That's pretty impressive. Good job.

 

[3piece]

In a way I was in a similar situation. I'd been buying at least a size too big. I didn't have the eye. Whatever my friends wore, I would, too; whatever the salesperson put on me, I would buy it. Then I had my first MTM suit, and, "Oh, this is how it's supposed to fit?!" I got rid of my old wardrobe probably within a year. I mean who would let themselves look bad?

 

[Fading Fast]

I'm fortunate that I have found an excellent alterations tailor in Chicago. Maria who is the proprietor of Golden Needle on State just north of Chicago ave.

I've been using her for years and she's never let me down. I wish I could tell you the cost of her individual services but she doesn't have posted pricing anywhere.

I take in what I need to have altered. She does the pinning, I leave it with her. Before I pick up, I call to see how much so I can bring the correct amount (cash or check only....Maria doesn't do credit cards) and everything is done right.

unorthodox? Yes. But worth every penny!

Over the years, I've had a few tailor relationships like that - they are worth their weight in gold. The last guy who was like that - a true professional and gentleman - passed away a little over a decade ago and I've been adrift through mediocre and overpriced tailors ever since. (MattS has recommended one to me that I will use for my next major tailoring project.)

The Marias of the world - just like the old-watch repair guys - are disappearing; can I say it, they are fading fast, which is a shame as we lose a lot when we lose these skilled craftsmen (and women) who take pride in their work.

 

[icky thump]

Specifically I'm thinking of sport coats and blazers. I lost a lot of weight after purchasing a nice herringbone tweed in light tan/grey. Sure, I have a couple in my current size but not in that particular shade. Due to a slight rebound in weight I think I could get away with wearing my larger jacket. I kept it for this very reason.

So my question really is: How large of a jacket would you wear if at all? A size too big? Two sizes too big? Naturally slim gents feel free to chime in.

I would not wear any.

I went from a 50 to a 42, now around 41. I donated everything except 2 44s and 2 43s and will donate them as soon as I get a chance. Donating them took away the wiggle room.

For the record they looked absolutely horrible. And this was after having the 44s taken in to resemble a 42 -- even they looked horrible.

 

[Troones]

Great discussion on this! And, the exact circumstances in my case have been addressed in pieces from a few different members:
- the jacket in question is a heavy tweed
- the intention was to wear it over a cardigan sweater
- it does not (to my eye) look ridiculous
- I agree that a bad fit in the shoulders is a deal breaker, however the combination of my broad shoulders, and the natural shoulders of the jacket make the fit acceptable to my eye.

I'll give it a spin and see how it works on one of my casual days in the office. If I can work up the guts, I'll post a picture of the results.