[deliberate1]

Friends, I have developed a cyclical habit of purchasing a gaggle of suits and jackets all at one time, only to jettison them some years later. On the outs are several Canali and Corneliani pieces I bought about ten years ago. One morning I arose to discover that I no longer fancy multi-pleated pants and a boxy silhouette with unnaturally squared shoulders.
My journey to replace these items has revealed a world of far more flattering designs, at least to my eye. I have low expectations. All I want is the sartorial equivalent of a 1963 Ferrari 250 GTO (https://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/1963-ferrari-250-gto-sells-for-52-million/), all at a Fiat price. And I believe I have come damn close.
The houses of Isaia and Stile Latino are now represented in my closet. When I am in this hunter-gatherer mindset it is an indelicate tango between parsimony and lust. While I picture myself in a Kiton-50 deeply nestled in the sumptuous leather of that Ferrari classic, college tuition bills provide potent smelling salts. But persistent scavenging over the net, and especially on Ebay, have put a few suits and jackets in my possession for well less than $1000 per piece. And they are splendid.
I am not an easy fit - 42-43 jacket with 34 waist and 25/25.5" sleeves. Most of the domestic suits in that jacket size are paired with pants at least 3-4" bigger than I need. Even many of the Italian suits are in the 37" range. I know that the geometry of trousers is mangled by a reduction of more than an 1-2" at the waist. And many of the finer suits have working sleeve lengths an inch shorter than I need. My tailor tells me that it is a impractical to refashion such sleeves in an acceptable way.
The Stile Latino suits I found on Ebay and ehaberdasher have been a particular revelation. For those not familiar, these suits have Attolini genetics. The sculpted silhouette and flat tailored pants are the antithesis of the suits they are replacing. I never thought of suits as comfortable to wear, but these are. The feeling that the jacket is moving with you has been an unexpected sensory treat. Perhaps that is from the full canvas construction? And the lack of padding, especially in the shoulders is, ironically, more flattering than my suits with "falsies."
The more money you have in your pocket, the easier it is to find that perfect piece. But I enjoy the challenge of picking that affordable and elegant shmata out of a very elegant Italian haystack. The search continues. Other than the usual suspects (Kiton, Attolini, Brioni, Zegna) and those listed above, please suggest less well-known brands that would make me happy.
Obliged,
David

 

[Anon 18th Cent.]

High arm holes and natural shoulders (the Attolini cut) are what make the jacket seem like a second skin. Other makers do that too, but none as well as the original.

 

[Tim Correll]

High arm holes and natural shoulders (the Attolini cut) are what make the jacket seem like a second skin. Other makers do that too, but none as well as the original.

Actually, bespoke tailors (especially the Italian and Italian American ones such as Enzo's in Smithtown, LINY and Rubinacci) that do the Neapolitan Italian cut do it much better than Attolini (and with a few exceptions, with more handwork, to boot).

 

[deliberate1]

Actually, bespoke tailors (especially the Italian and Italian American ones such as Enzo's in Smithtown, LINY and Rubinacci) that do the Neapolitan Italian cut do it much better than Attolini (and with a few exceptions, with more handwork, to boot).

Your screen name reminds me that wearing that special suit while rowing through the gears of my Audio S5 is pure harmony. I suspect, Audi S5 TC, you know what I mean, especially if you have one with a stick.
D1

 

[Youthful Repp-robate]

Surely Brioni isn't what you're looking for -- they seem to generally have a pretty aggressive cut.

How about Eidos? The lookbooks and casual wear are very hip, but most of the tailoring can be played straight. They're meant to be Isaia's younger line.

 

[deliberate1]

Surely Brioni isn't what you're looking for -- they seem to generally have a pretty aggressive cut.

How about Eidos? The lookbooks and casual wear are very hip, but most of the tailoring can be played straight. They're meant to be Isaia's younger line.

Obliged for the suggestion. I have not come across Eidos in my online travels and will check them out. I have since discovered Partenopea. Lovely pieces but pretty slim pickings online. No doubt I could fill my closet with Kiton while emptying my bank account at the same time. Though their Sartoria line is very enticing.
While I was not looking for winter wear, this Isiai was irresistible.

Cheers
D

 

[dr.butcher]

I'm fairly keen on the reasonably-priced neo-Neapolitan Japanese suits/jackets from Ring Jacket. Soft shoulders, incredibly comfortable fit and flat front trousers. I plan to get a few more later this year.

 

[deliberate1]

I'm fairly keen on the reasonably-priced neo-Neapolitan Japanese suits/jackets from Ring Jacket. Soft shoulders, incredibly comfortable fit and flat front trousers. I plan to get a few more later this year.

Very nice indeed. I do not think of Japan as a sartorial source, but will have to re-think that. Do you happen to own any of the Kamakura shirts. They look quite handsome and well-made, all at an excellent price point.
Cheers.
D

 

[dr.butcher]

Very nice indeed. I do not think of Japan as a sartorial source, but will have to re-think that. Do you happen to own any of the Kamakura shirts. They look quite handsome and well-made, all at an excellent price point.
Cheers.
D

I don't have any Kamakura shirts actually. I've not had fantastic experiences ordering shirts online, and as Japan is a hop, skip and a jump from Hong Kong I plan to go there sometime and shop. I may even move there sometimes in the next 12 months if I find work. I think they're also one of the few places in Asia that get regular trunk shows from Savile Row. Henry Poole is there regularly and I think Richard Anderson is as well. Can't remember who else. They may very well be the best place in Asia for classic menswear. They pay attention to the details and make high-quality products. Just look at all the top quality shoe makers (like Koji Suzuki) coming out of Japan. And unlike the West where less and less people want to learn an old-fashioned trades like making clothes and shoes by hand that take decades to master, Japanese feel differently. I've heard sushi chefs spend something like 5 years just learning how to cook rice properly before they can move on to anything as advanced as cutting fish. I'd definitely put it on your radar.

 

[deliberate1]

They pay attention to the details and make high-quality products. Just look at all the top quality shoe makers (like Koji Suzuki) coming out of Japan. And unlike the West where less and less people want to learn an old-fashioned trades like making clothes and shoes by hand that take decades to master, Japanese feel differently.

Humanity should cherish a culture and mindset that preserves the the skills of the hands and mind cultivated and nurtured over the time of Man. In a mass-produced and disposable society treasured lessons from the past perish through antipathy. What western "traditions"of our century will merit preservation? Few, if any, I fear.

 

[SG_67]

Very nice indeed. I do not think of Japan as a sartorial source, but will have to re-think that. Do you happen to own any of the Kamakura shirts. They look quite handsome and well-made, all at an excellent price point.
Cheers.
D

I own 1/2 a dozen Kamakura shirts and I can't think of a better value in off the rack shirts. My only complaint is that their selection is somewhat limited and for some reason they think that all New Yorkers have long arms! (see sizing for New York slim fit).

I just ordered another 3 shirts, 2 knits and 1 OCBD and can't wait to add them into the rotation.

They are indeed very well made and certainly on par with shirts hovering around the ~$200 price point.

 

[deliberate1]

I own 1/2 a dozen Kamakura shirts and I can't think of a better value in off the rack shirts. My only complaint is that their selection is somewhat limited and for some reason they think that all New Yorkers have long arms! (see sizing for New York slim fit).

I just ordered another 3 shirts, 2 knits and 1 OCBD and can't wait to add them into the rotation.

They are indeed very well made and certainly on par with shirts hovering around the ~$200 price point.

Good to know. I was looking at the NY slim fit since I prefer a more tapered shirt. Perhaps they should call it the Maine slim recognizing those of us in my home state who sport longish upper extremities (I am a solid 34-35" in my favored T&A shirts).
Any particular buying advice among the different quality ranges K offers?
Many thanks
D

 

[SG_67]

Good to know. I was looking at the NY slim fit since I prefer a more tapered shirt. Perhaps they should call it the Maine slim recognizing those of us in my home state who sport longish upper extremities (I am a solid 34-35" in my favored T&A shirts).
Any particular buying advice among the different quality ranges K offers?
Many thanks
D

So far I've only purchased from the regular range. They have a range called the 300 club (I think) but I don't have experience with that.

For $79 they are quite hard to beat. Shell buttons, non-fused collars so they have a really nice roll and pretty sturdy construction. My current order has 2 of their knit shirts so I'm curious how they will wear and feel.

I've bought both online and in their NYC store on Madison Ave. The store is a little gem! Great service and friendly.

 

[deliberate1]

So far I've only purchased from the regular range. They have a range called the 300 club (I think) but I don't have experience with that.

For $79 they are quite hard to beat. Shell buttons, non-fused collars so they have a really nice roll and pretty sturdy construction. My current order has 2 of their knit shirts so I'm curious how they will wear and feel.

I've bought both online and in their NYC store on Madison Ave. The store is a little gem! Great service and friendly.

On your recommendation, I will pick up a couple. Thanks for the fb.
D