[never behind]

I'm constantly tinkering with my shirt sleeves to get that perfect fit. In the past I've had my sleeves to short, so they would ride up my forearm when I moved. So I'm trying to adjust to longer sleeves/tighter cuffs. I think I've hit that "first knuckle of the thumb" length target and have the cuffs at the appropriate tightness. I do want to narrow the arm hole slightly, so that should remove some fabric, especially at the bicep. But they seem a little too busy. I've always been overly critical and obsessive of my clothes fit (I'm trying to relax), so I want to get some feedback.

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[Charles Dana]

Your shirt looks fine to me. But then, I like classic, full-cut dress shirts.

By the way, your trousers fit you very well. Are they MTM?

 

[never behind]

Your shirt looks fine to me. But then, I like classic, full-cut dress shirts.

By the way, your trousers fit you very well. Are they MTM?

Thank you. They are OTR Santorelli's from Nordstrom.

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[xtn]

I like a LITTLE extra fabric in the arm length, allowing the cuffs to prevent too long a sleeve. I mean you don't want them riding up just because you're reaching for your own belt buckle.

But beware too much! It is normal and acceptable that they ride up a bit with more extreme reaching. Like when you're grasping the steering wheel of your car or put your arm over the shoulder of your favorite lady. Worn under a jacket, I like it best when the shirt riding up coincides with the jacket riding up so that perfect amount of shirt cuff shows either way. It's an ideal that's difficult to achieve, but nevertheless an ideal of mine.

 

[Searching_Best_Fit]

There are some tricks that I used to determine whether the sleeve length is long enough. The one that you show about the 1st thumb knuckle was one of it.

Try these tricks and see how the sleeve behaves:

a. raise your arm forward so that it is parallel to the ground. Observe how far, or none the the cuff slide towards your torso.
b. raise your arm side side way and observe how far the cuff slide towards your torso.

If in any case the cuff slides more than you desire, it is too short. Ideally, the cuff should stay, meaning that you have sufficient slacks around your elbow for arm movement.

Now, here are the bonus rounds: use one arm to slide under your armpit of the other arm and press the clothes against your body and repeat steps a. and b. listed above and observe. Do you see a difference this time.

The reason of doing this is to emulate the case if you put on a jacket with small or high armhole with this shirt. A low (big) armhole shirt can behave nicely in these tests if you only wear it without a jacket. However, if you put on a small armhole jacket with big armhole shirt, the shirt sleeve will be limited by the jacket so it may behave differently. This bonus round is to test how the shirt will behave under a tight jacket.

Once these are sorted, then we should move on to decide whether the shirt sleeve cuff should slide along with jacket sleeve cuff... or not....

 

[never behind]

There are some tricks that I used to determine whether the sleeve length is long enough. The one that you show about the 1st thumb knuckle was one of it.

Try these tricks and see how the sleeve behaves:

a. raise your arm forward so that it is parallel to the ground. Observe how far, or none the the cuff slide towards your torso.
b. raise your arm side side way and observe how far the cuff slide towards your torso.

If in any case the cuff slides more than you desire, it is too short. Ideally, the cuff should stay, meaning that you have sufficient slacks around your elbow for arm movement.

Now, here are the bonus rounds: use one arm to slide under your armpit of the other arm and press the clothes against your body and repeat steps a. and b. listed above and observe. Do you see a difference this time.

The reason of doing this is to emulate the case if you put on a jacket with small or high armhole with this shirt. A low (big) armhole shirt can behave nicely in these tests if you only wear it without a jacket. However, if you put on a small armhole jacket with big armhole shirt, the shirt sleeve will be limited by the jacket so it may behave differently. This bonus round is to test how the shirt will behave under a tight jacket.

Once these are sorted, then we should move on to decide whether the shirt sleeve cuff should slide along with jacket sleeve cuff... or not....

Thankfully no one saw me doing these in my office. Even pressing the shirt material down, the sleeves don't ride up excessively. It would seem I've found the right length.

I have narrow wrists in relation to my forearms (I assume) since a size that makes the cuff sit properly on my wrist will be too tight on my forearm if it slides up too much. I spend an hour commuting each day and have a lot of arm movement in my day at work, so it's nice not feeling as if I'll pop a button driving. I've added 0.5" so far to the length and now feel I have good range of motion in my daily activities. It's just different than my former OTC shirts where they sit at the wrist with giant cuff holes and slide up the arm easily.

I don't mind them not moving with the jacket sleeve. I'm not sure how they could and solve the wrist placement/range of motion issue.

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[Flanderian]

I'm constantly tinkering with my shirt sleeves to get that perfect fit. In the past I've had my sleeves to short, so they would ride up my forearm when I moved. So I'm trying to adjust to longer sleeves/tighter cuffs. I think I've hit that "first knuckle of the thumb" length target and have the cuffs at the appropriate tightness. I do want to narrow the arm hole slightly, so that should remove some fabric, especially at the bicep. But they seem a little too busy. I've always been overly critical and obsessive of my clothes fit (I'm trying to relax), so I want to get some feedback.

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Both shirmakers which I have used initially made the length of the sleeve just long enough so that it would rest where it should with a snug cuff to try and keep it there. This apparently was/is standard for most bespoke makers.

But I can't abide cuffs that are too snug, and when I moved my arms about the cuff would still ascend an inch or two above my wrist and get stuck there anyway, so that I had to keep shooting my cuffs. My solution was to add 3/4" to the sleeve length measurement, but expand the cuff circumference slightly. I don't recall what it was exactly - 1/4", 3/8", 1/2"?

The result was that the cuffs were no longer too snug and were free enough so they didn't get stuck above my wrist, but were small enough so that they would rest at the base of my thumb but go no further down my hand.

 

[never behind]

When I had a shirtmaker, both which I had used initially made the length of the sleeve just long enough so that it would rest where it should with a snug cuff to try and keep it there. This apparently was/is standard for most bespoke makers.

But I can't abide cuffs that are too snug, and when I moved my arms about the cuff would still ascend an inch or two above my wrist and get stuck there anyway, so that I had to keep shooting my cuffs. My solution was to add 3/4" to the sleeve length measurement, but expand the cuff circumference slightly. I don't recall what it was exactly - 1/4", 3/8", 1/2"?

The result was that the cuffs were no longer too snug and were free enough so they didn't get stuck above my wrist, but were small enough so that they would rest at the base of my thumb but go no further down my hand.

One would think figuring out a cuff size/sleeve length would be a lot easier than it ends up being.

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