[hopkins_student]

Also posted on SF:

Forgive me for the use of the word "tux", but I cannot recall what the official term we've come up with was; I think I was reprimanded for using the phrase "dinner suit". Anyway, I've been informed that I can expect several black tie events next year, and during each subsequent year of medical school, and some here and elsewhere have suggested I buy rather than rent. I welcome the opportunity to buy a tux, but I'm curious what you would do for your first. I have decided on a single button peaked lapel (if only I liked shawl collar there is an awesome Brioni on Ebay) and I'm probably going to go with Zegna. Would you purchase a black or midnight blue tux? I am sort of thinking black for the first one, and then if I choose to buy another tux in ten years I'll get a midnight blue one. Also, do I need to purchase the waistcoat at the same time and what are the rules for the fabric of the waistcoat? I'm going to go with the three button (do you still leave the lower button unbuttoned on this style?). Do you think I should also buy a cummerbund? If so, what are the rules for the fabric of the cummerbund. I'm obviously going to go with black/midnight blue vest/cummerbund instead of some horrid colorful pattern. Thanks for your help.

 

[amplifiedheat]

1)The Oxford English Dictionary notes "tuxedo" as being older than "dinner jacket." Personally, I doubt my great-great-great-great-great-great-grandfather would have fought in the Revolution if he had wanted me to use the British terminology.

2)I would agree that black is probably better for a first tuxedo. As the Black Tie Guide puts it, "Keep in mind that while you can wear the same classic black tuxedo dozens of times without anyone knowing whether you have one or a dozen of them, a tuxedo with even a hint of color will stand out as being your only dinner suit."

3)All three buttons on the evening waistcoat/vest are buttoned.

4)The cummerbund fabric, as I remember, matches the lapel fabric--satin for satin, grosgrain for grosgrain.

And, on the off-chance you haven't yet discovered the Black Tie Guide:
https://www.blacktieguide.com/

It looks like a good plan. Me, I have a great fondness for the shawl collar, but it is indeed the hardest lapel to do well.

 

[shirtguy]

midnight blue since a black one in the light look green

 

[Jim In Sunny So Calif]

I think the shawl collar looks best on a white dinner jacket, but I am as far from an expert on this topic as you can get.

 

[GrumF14]

I have to agree. The shawl collar looks best (and perhaps is your only single-breasted option) on a white dinner jacket. Some persons, George Clooney included, look very stylish and classic in a black shawl collar dinner jacket, but if nothing else, go with peak lapels, and in black instead of midnight blue. There are a growing number of notch lapels (someone elsewhere had mentioned in the latest James Bond film), but I'd leave them to suits and blazers. Make your DJ stand out-- especially if you find everyone else in notch lapels!

 

[Aaron in Allentown]

For the first fifteen of my tuxedo wearing years, I wore "off the rack" ex-rental tuxedos that were all black. My first was a double breasted peak lapel, then two shawl lapels.

Last year, I ordered an MTM tuxedo in midnight blue with black grosgrain peak lapels.

I love it.

 

[Terpoxon]

Midnight blue. It will be virtually indistinguishable from black except under artificial light, then it will look blacker than black.

 

[&Son]

My vote would be black but then again, so is my dinner jacket.

 

[Holdfast]

I dislike the blue of midnight blue DJs in natural light so would advise them only as a second tux. If you're in the USA, you end up wearing tuxes to all sorts of unnatural daytime events like weddings, so this matters. And in the UK, summertime evening events start in natural light, so you have the same problem. However, a midnight blue tux for winter black tie events is a good second choice, esp if in a different style to your first tux, for variety.

Personally, I also much prefer the feel of wearing a low-cut black waiscoat to a cummerbund but this is very much personal choice.

 

[caveman42]

Go for black. Play it safe.

 

[ChicagoMediaMan-27]

If you are only going to have 1, then I would go with black.

 

[stfu]

Black, please.

Also, I love the shawl collars, in black or 'white' (but especially 'white'). Someone mentioned Clooney as being able to wear them. I can think of lots of others I guess. I always thought they were Sinatras best option too.

 

[GrumF14]

... maybe for Sinatra or Clooney, it's a gravitas thing or something that comes with age? I don't think I'd be able to pull off a shawl collar at 22.

 

[Scoundrel]

If you have to ask this question, you better just stick with regular black

 

[Scoundrel]

midnight blue since a black one in the light look green

Yes, but midnight blue looks blue in light

 

[Terpoxon]

My brother recently ordered a suit (a Baroni from Jeff on Ebay) and it was meant to be a very dark blue. When it arrived he swore it was black. I looked at it and thought it was black as well. We put it side by side with my tux and only then could we tell for sure that it was blue. In most circumstances midnight blue will look like black. But, as most people have said, if this is the only one you'll have and you're more comfortable with black, then get black.

 

[Scoundrel]

My brother recently ordered a suit (a Baroni from Jeff on Ebay) and it was meant to be a very dark blue. When it arrived he swore it was black. I looked at it and thought it was black as well. We put it side by side with my tux and only then could we tell for sure that it was blue. In most circumstances midnight blue will look like black. But, as most people have said, if this is the only one you'll have and you're more comfortable with black, then get black.

Changed your mind, I see

 

[hockeyinsider]

My brother recently ordered a suit (a Baroni from Jeff on Ebay) and it was meant to be a very dark blue. When it arrived he swore it was black. I looked at it and thought it was black as well. We put it side by side with my tux and only then could we tell for sure that it was blue. In most circumstances midnight blue will look like black. But, as most people have said, if this is the only one you'll have and you're more comfortable with black, then get black.

I had a horrible experience with Jeff and Baroni and will not recommend him.

 

[Sator]

1)The Oxford English Dictionary notes "tuxedo" as being older than "dinner jacket."

Indeed, the term "dinner jacket" only came to be used after 1898. Prior to that it was known in England as "dress lounge".

 

[Sator]

I think I was reprimanded for using the phrase "dinner suit".

It's time we laid that one to rest. I have also seen the phrase "dinner suit" in a window in Savile Row.

There is also this from Piccadilly, 1937:

Note the recommendation to own a "dinner suit" and a "dress suit".