[X-Factor]

Experts/ Veterans - Feedback please on my new first custom Linen Unlined/ Skeleton lined suit.
I can have them fix minor/ major issues if needed.

Please do share, as this suit is the first and prototype we will be using for stitch more suits for me.

Trousers feel a bit not perfectly cozy on the hips/ buttocks. Should've taken pics without jacket ..

Is it a linen v/s wool thing or should I have them cozy/ tighten it on the buttucks?

Is it better to have a flat front {That's what I had asked I think} or single one crease down the front as shown?

PS: - Does mine suffer from the same shoulder issue? It feels like very minimal/ soft padding.. Is my posture shift from initial pictures to later pics causing that scrunch?

2 rounds of Pictures with changed postures and confused, tired & kinda sleepy picture taker in evening. It was worn once/ twice, so not fresh ironed from tailors.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8bjvxxihx87j8a5/AAB3I1xS31xGjb4KCaYhPwVCa?dl=0 - All images

Please click to zoom and see.

 

[SG_67]

Sorry, that's tailored? By whom?

The leg opening is too narrow.

The sleeves too long

The shoulders too wide.

Those are the first things that jump out at me. Perhaps others will offer a more nuanced observation.

 

[Charles Dana]

The jacket is too tight in the chest and the trousers are way too skinny. Do you want to look like a kid or a man? If the former, then be a slave to today's tiny-trouser trend. If the latter, order trousers that easily flow down your leg line.

In other words, let's assign baggy pants a value of 10. Now let's assign those tight cling-wrappy things you're wearing a value of 1. Go for trousers that are a 5 or 6.

If you order a bunch of custom-tailored suits based on what's in fashion right this moment--and your words and photos indicate that you are in danger of doing just that--you'll be sorry pretty soon. Instead, go for a timeless look. It's time to leave adolescence behind.

Your trousers don't look bad in the thighs, but they are much too tapered from the knees down.

And make the lapels a little wider. You've got decent pecs--the lapels should be in proportion to them.

Flat fronts would be fine. So would a single forward pleat, or double forward pleats. Just avoid a low rise--go for a full rise.

On a positive note: congratulations on selecting dual vents. Good choice.

 

[X-Factor]

Sorry, that's tailored? By whom?

The leg opening is too narrow.

The sleeves too long

The shoulders too wide.

Those are the first things that jump out at me. Perhaps others will offer a more nuanced observation.

yes, I got that as well from another friend about shoulders. Sleeves not sure but will take note of your point.
I havent had the time to go back to them, but will be doing so shortly and they've promised to make amends.
A mistake was me wearing a RTW suit when I went there to be measured, and probably threw things in the direction of the RTW.

The jacket is too tight in the chest and the trousers are way too skinny. Do you want to look like a kid or a man? If the former, then be a slave to today's tiny-trouser trend. If the latter, order trousers that easily flow down your leg line.

In other words, let's assign baggy pants a value of 10. Now let's assign those tight cling-wrappy things you're wearing a value of 1. Go for trousers that are a 5 or 6.

If you order a bunch of custom-tailored suits based on what's in fashion right this moment--and your words and photos indicate that you are in danger of doing just that--you'll be sorry pretty soon. Instead, go for a timeless look. It's time to leave adolescence behind.

Your trousers don't look bad in the thighs, but they are much too tapered from the knees down.

And make the lapels a little wider. You've got decent pecs--the lapels should be in proportion to them.

Flat fronts would be fine. So would a single forward pleat, or double forward pleats. Just avoid a low rise--go for a full rise.

On a positive note: congratulations on selecting dual vents. Good choice.

First of all.. thank you so much for you notes..

Well, I do not want to look like a KID, neither do I want to look like an OLD man I'd like a balance in between.

A young CEO/ Consultant / Startup Strategy guy look? Is there one?

I'd like to have a slim cut that suits my lean bone structure. I've had RTW suits before that hang as I do not have the "big boned" american body.

On the trouser end, I do agree to some degree. I'm not a fan of TAPERED jeans/ pants. So, I'll push for that.
When it comes to Jeans/ Denims I usually like to wear Classic Straight Fits i.e. Levi's classics.
(I'll post the measurement of the "bottom" so that you may suggest what might be better from Knees to Bottom)

One of my life goals is to go for a minimalistic life style - less clothes & things.. but better quality and more importantly things that I can and will actually end up using. So, given the weather in hot humid asia, I've picked Linen as my savior and wish to have a staple set of Pants/ Shirts/ Jackets that I can use, combine and minimize my wardrobe.

So, Actually, my goal is to get rid of/ replace/ minimize all Jeans (hot & insulating) with Linen pants that have a similar fit/ cut/ look so I can go from Suited to Shirt + Jean look in a moment. (PS: Pockets with a trouser look)

I'm wondering if its too far off whats possible to try to have my trouser body cut from top to bottom such that they look great with the jacket and can pass as a Straight fit Jean look when jackets off.

What you mean low rise/ vs full rise.. we're talking about the Waist right? Or the trouser bottoms?

PS: I'll also try to post a body measurement I took for "fitness" workout purposes so maybe you can tell me how to tweak this.. Once this is finalized.. I'm going to do a Copy Paste on 1-2 more Linen suits

 

[Tempest]

The shoulders seem very rearward, and it certainly doesn't appear to be due to slouching. Did they just put in less padding and alter nothing else?
The leg seam doesn't hang straight. I can't tell if this is due to snugness, off pitch, or just ineptly narrowing a pattern.

 

[Spex]

I honestly don't think the trousers are rediculously slim, but need to be hemmed shorter in order to fall more cleanly.

Is it better to have a flat front {That's what I had asked I think} or single one crease down the front as shown?

I'm wondering if its too far off whats possible to try to have my trouser body cut from top to bottom such that they look great with the jacket and can pass as a Straight fit Jean look when jackets off.

Is this question asking whether the trousers should have a crease or not, as opposed to a pleat? Trousers paired with a jacket need to have a crease. I understand that jeans should never have a crease, but we are talking about two wildly different styles of pants. I appreciate the minimalist approach towards a wardrobe, but asking suit trousers to also fill in the role of jeans is asking them to do too much and it just won't look good.

 

[medhat]

The shoulders seem very rearward, and it certainly doesn't appear to be due to slouching. Did they just put in less padding and alter nothing else?
The leg seam doesn't hang straight. I can't tell if this is due to snugness, off pitch, or just ineptly narrowing a pattern.

First, unlike other posters I don't really share the same issues with the pants being too slim - IMO it's a matter of preference and clearly the current trend amongst the under 40 crowd is for slim. I personally would lean towards less break in the pants.

For the jacket, however, I'm perplexed in that you said this was a custom suit, as the jacket looks RTW to my eye. The armholes appear big, the stance of the whole jacket is much more erect than your stance (which appears quite natural to me), just rephrasing what Tempest mentions above. Again, to me, it looks if anything like there's TOO much shoulder padding, creating a suit shape that is clearly not yours (hence the question if this is really a custom suit). I would think a softer padded shoulder (particularly with linen) would drape better and more naturally on your shoulder, and resolve the appearance issues around the shoulder and armhole.

Yes, I do think the jacket is a touch tight. Linen, to me, is a much more casual fabric, and as such I'm not looking for a suit to fit like a wool 120's business suit. Just my opinions.

 

[LawSuits]

When I first clicked on the dropbox link, I had missed the instruction to click the thumbnails to see the whole picture, so I didn't have any opinion on fit, and instead went to the comments, and they seemed pretty harsh about the fit. Most posters here are constructive and measured in their comments, so I wanted to know what prompted the multiple criticisms. I returned to your original post, and went back to the pics, this time looking at the full length pictures. The comments almost seem gentle, now that I have seen the pictures. I am not sure what look you want to achieve (I did read the rest of your posts, and appreciate your attempt to better frame the look you are after), but would be dismayed to get a suit like the one you are wearing. Linen is a tricky fabric, and at its best can never match the smooth drape of a wool suit, but there does not seem to be any drape to that suit whatsoever, and it looks on you, even if it fits, as though you are ever uncomfortable with it on. The shoulders appear too big, based on the side view of the sleeves alone, the torso/waist appears too tight, and pants appear to be too narrow and probably too long. I am no tailor, but I wonder if the pants can even be rescued, as I would think there may not be enough fabric to allow them to be altered to hang attractively. I think another issue is from the choice of linen itself, as the fabric is usually associated with hotter weather and a looser fit that yields comfort in the heat. The suit does not appear to be loose in any degree, and the shoulders look pretty heavily constructed for linen. I would like to see a pic of you in one of your RTW rigs to compare, as I would expect them to be at least as good as this and probably more attractive. I hope you can get it done right so you look good, and feel good, when wearing it.

 

[Charles Dana]

I appreciate the minimalist approach towards a wardrobe, but asking suit trousers to also fill in the role of jeans is asking them to do too much and it just won't look good.

X-Factor:

Spex is correct.

Please get away from this idea that casual trousers have to be cut like jeans. Chinos/khakis are the perfect casual trousers, yet their side-seam or forward-slanted pockets and overall fit mirror more or less what you see with suit trousers.

When you take your linen jacket off in order to be even more casual, it's okay if the linen trousers you are wearing have the pocket style and at-the-waist rise that are associated with suit trousers.

 

[Charles Dana]

. Well, I do not want to look like a KID, neither do I want to look like an OLD man I'd like a balance in between.

Understood. That's why I advised you back in March that with respect to your suit trousers, you should seek the halfway point between skinny and baggy.

The general precept is this: Avoid extremes, and you won't have to worry about whether you look too immature or too elderly. Just keep your look simple and understated. Quiet good taste is never out of date or inappropriate. ("Precept." Look how pretentious I can be. Actually, it's just my opinion.)

What you mean low rise/ vs full rise.. we're talking about the Waist right? Or the trouser bottoms?

The rise is the distance from the bottom of the crotch to the top of the waistband. The rise of your suit trousers should not be low, like the rise on jeans. The rise should be high enough so that when your suit jacket is buttoned, neither your belt buckle nor triangle of shirt fabric nor tie tip is visible below the bottom button.

 

[JBierly]

I think the trend towards very tapered trousers needs to be avoided. If you can't pull the trousers up over your calves easily the trousers are just too tapered. That goes for jeans too. Accordingly I think your trousers are a bit too tapered. Shortening them will help eliminate the bunching of fabric with the caveat that too short really looks silly. The shoulders may be a bit difficult to fix - I think they are just too big.

 

[downzero]

The jacket is way too big. That cannot be fixed by any reasonable measure. The rest of it is a mess, too, but ultimately, nothing else matters if the shoulders do not fit.