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I have a year round navy blazer from J.Press. While the fit and aesthetic of the blazer is quite nice, the construction could be a lot better.

If you can afford it, I would look into having a special order / MTM blazer done by Samuelsohn. I bought a fully canvassed Sammy "Greenwich" model sportcoat recently that blows away any jacket Brooks or Press could offer with the possible exception of an MTM jacket done by Martin Greenfield. The Greenwich is a darted 2 button model with very soft shoulders and light shoulder padding.

Apparently Samuelsohn is flexible enough that they can make an undarted 3/2 roll "sack" style jacket as a variation on this model. Other than having a bespoke blazer done by Field's, that would be my ideal blazer at the moment.

As far as the basic OLC $350 blazer goes, I think at would be hard to assess whether or not it is a "beater" unless you had it in hand. In any case, like I said before, OLC has tons of stuff not offerred on their website.

Call and ask for Ethan and tell him what you want and your price range. I know they carry Samuelsohn suits and jackets and would assume they can do special orders as well. If a Sammy is outside your budget range, I would ask if they have any old stock fully canvassed, 3/8 lined blazers made by Oritsky in your size (hint: Oritsky jackets run small, confirm measurements against a well fitting jacket and size up if need be). I was very impressed with an Oritsky made suit that I received from them recently.
 

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For me the problem with the Southwick Douglas, at least off the rack, is that the shoulders are too wide. I suppose MTM could solve that problem but that doesn't really make sense given the high cost unless they can do full canvas.

Current Brooks blazers have the same problem with the wide shoulders, and coincidentally they are made by Southwick too. This may not be a problem for you depending on how you are built.

Compare any recent non-MTM blazer from to an old stock or vintage jacket and you'll see how much better shoulders in these sack jackets used to be. The padding in the old jackets was very, very light and the shoulders were cut an inch or more narrower.

I'd definitely be curious about MTM H.Freeman.
 

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Brooks shoulders are wider than Press, IIRC, so I doubt Press will fit you. I doubt OLC will work either. You probably need to look into MTM.

Shoulder problem. I like the natural shoulder, but my shoulders are wide, and so I've tried sacks that are so tight I can't wear them. I've had that problem at Brooks, and I'm wondering how I'll do with OC. Or maybe Press. I'm leaning toward the Brooks, but as I've said I often have trouble and have to look at jackets that are far too big.
 
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