[suitlover123]

I have always believed that English suits cuts simply cannot be beaten. I get my suits from Savile Row and have done since I left school a long, long time ago!

But why is it that the Italian suit has taken the mainsteam popularity over the traditional English suit. To me, the English suit cut requires significantly more skill to build.

Would you go Italian or would you stay Savile Row?

Thanks,

Suit Lover

 

[firedancer]

English shoes and Italian Suits for this guy.

 

[suitlover123]

I'm the other way round

I'm the other way round. I tend to wear English suits and Italian shoes... although I am always very tempted by a good pair or John Lobbs...

 

[suitlover123]

At the moment I am wearing my Turnbull and Asser shirt. I find that their traditional fits are really great and the quality of the shirt seems to be unmatched. Jermyn Street tailoring at its best.

https://www.turnbullandasser.com/

My shows are Gucci, brown suede loafers (slip on). I am not a massive fan of laces. They look great but I do not think that I have the patience.

https://www.gucci.com/

My Suit is from Cad and the Dandy. They are a slightly newer Savile Row tailor but are very good.

https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/

My tie is from Thomas Pink. Very traditional.

https://www.thomaspink.com/

All very English makes (aside from the shoes!) So, as you can see, not much Italian in there. I am open to trying new things though... any suggestions anyone?

 

[Oldsarge]

The traditional Italian cut is more comfortable and much more easily worn in very light cloth, unlined, for hot weather. This should hardly surprise anyone since Naples can get beastly hot in the summer. So, for those of us who live where air conditioning is a necessity rather than a luxury, Italian suits are a better choice. And, BTW, I prefer American shoes. I find the European designs compatible only with the kind of skinny boy suits so beloved by GQ.

 

[WouldaShoulda]

Italian??

Love the food, hate the clothes.

It's Ango-American all the way!!

 

[Kingstonian]

I have always believed that English suits cuts simply cannot be beaten. I get my suits from Savile Row and have done since I left school a long, long time ago!

But why is it that the Italian suit has taken the mainsteam popularity over the traditional English suit. To me, the English suit cut requires significantly more skill to build.

Would you go Italian or would you stay Savile Row?

Thanks,

Suit Lover

Not many on here are genuine Savile Row customers. It is expensive.

Cad and Dandy is not a true Savile Row tailor as far as I am aware.

As to a straight English cut versus Italian cut, that is different. Italian usually means trendy. English means traditional.

I do not get on with Italian shoes. Northampton for me.

 

[Balfour]

At the moment I am wearing my Turnbull and Asser shirt. I find that their traditional fits are really great and the quality of the shirt seems to be unmatched.

My favourite shirtmaker OTR. Can't quite stretch to Budd or Emma Willis.

 

[Balfour]

And, BTW, I prefer American shoes. I find the European designs compatible only with the kind of skinny boy suits so beloved by GQ.

You mean European as in continental European, right?

Check out Trickers for the contra-GQ shoe: https://www.trickers.com/!

 

[Balfour]

Cad and Dandy is not a true Savile Row tailor as far as I am aware.

They are not an old Savile Row house, no. They do MTM suits, and have a high end option (starting at about £850) that is fully-basted. I've heard good reports, though - might give them a try soon.

My hesitation is that I think they have a highly structured 'house style', and I favour (contrary to the English stereotype) a more natural shoulder. If I could afford to be, I would be a patron of Anderson & Sheppard.

 

[peterc]

Interesting thread. My opinion is that both have a lot to offer. What the British have to offer is old world style and class and exclusivity, all big plusses in my opinion. What the Italians have to offer, again in my opinion, is that they can deliver a great product at a competitive price, which is something that the Brits really cannot get a handle on. In all fairness to the Brits, they don't need to, as the world accommodates them, not the other way around. But on the other hand, that kind of exclusivity comes at a price. A case in point is that Saks, NM, BG do not carry any British made suits. Bloomies carries Turnbull & Asser, at $1,895.00. Also, as far as I know, NO British suit manufacturer sells a suit that has trousers with forward pleats. How did such an absurdity happen? Another case in point: my tailor recently got in a book of Holland & Sherry moleskin and corduroy fabrics. I inquired as to his price for a pair of moleskins: $500.00, due in large part to the cost of the fabric. I can get excellent moleskins elsehere for less than 1/3 of that.

 

[Haffman]

I think it's a stretch to say that Cad and the Dandy are a 'Savile Row tailor'... despite their showroom on Savile Row...

And Thomas Pink are certainly not a 'traditional' Jermyn Street shirtmaker

In answer to your question, I think British apparel companies have been very slow to capitalise on their rich inheritance of style and expertise compared to the Italians and make a product which is high-quality and yet has mass market potential. In fact, the Italians have proved very adept at taking elements of traditional British styling and selling it back to the Anglo-Saxon consumer! There are probably a number of reasons for this : including the renowned snobbishness and inflexibility to the forces of change on Savile Row (just read Richard Anderson's book on that)and the general failures in British management in manufacturing and exports since WWII, poor investment etc.

 

[peterc]

I think it's a stretch to say that Cad and the Dandy are a 'Savile Row tailor'... despite their showroom on Savile Row...

And Thomas Pink are certainly not a 'traditional' Jermyn Street shirtmaker

In answer to your question, I think British apparel companies have been very slow to capitalise on their rich inheritance of style and expertise compared to the Italians and make a product which is high-quality and yet has mass market potential. In fact, the Italians have proved very adept at taking elements of traditional British styling and selling it back to the Anglo-Saxon consumer! There are probably a number of reasons for this : including the renowned snobbishness and inflexibility to the forces of change on Savile Row (just read Richard Anderson's book on that)and the general failures in British management in manufacturing and exports since WWII, poor investment etc.

You are so correct. Another case is point, for those interested in hi fi, is the history of QUAD. Peter Walker, the founder, was knighted for his accomplishments. The sound of QUAD gear is amazing given its price point. Yet, after the company was sold a number of times in the last 20 years, all manufacturing is now in China. Again, how did this happen? Post #12 has many of the answers.

 

[Kingstonian]

Yes Quad electrostatic speakers are superb. Old style, new style, even refurbished ones.

I once heard them as stacked pairs - magnificent.

However, hi fi is often a niche market and it is not surprising that when offered the chance some owners choose to sell out.

 

[peterc]

Yes, of course, you are correct. Being in business these days is no easy feat.

At the end of the day, we should probably all count our blessings that Savile Row even continues to exist.

 

[Matt S]

Also, as far as I know, NO British suit manufacturer sells a suit that has trousers with forward pleats. How did such an absurdity happen? Another case in point: my tailor recently got in a book of Holland & Sherry moleskin and corduroy fabrics. I inquired as to his price for a pair of moleskins: $500.00, due in large part to the cost of the fabric. I can get excellent moleskins elsehere for less than 1/3 of that.

I have a number of off the rack trousers from Turnbull & Asser that have forward pleats. I got those a few years ago. Their suits also had forward pleats. I believe they still do, at least the ones sold in New York. Before they had reverse-pleat trousers with their suits.

 

[peterc]

I have a number of off the rack trousers from Turnbull & Asser that have forward pleats. I got those a few years ago. Their suits also had forward pleats. I believe they still do, at least the ones sold in New York. Before they had reverse-pleat trousers with their suits.

Good to know. Thank you.

 

[dstarz]

My deceased tailor, Mr. Antonio Gasbarri, who was from Rome but established himself here in LA and in Las Vegas and cut for MANY a person in the public eye, used and English cut, but with an old Roman affectation: A seamless back of the jacket. i.e. One piece of cloth! He used to say that the English was the original, and everything else was derivative. This is, of course, true. For me, it depends: I have bespoke suits from him, and a couple from Anderson and Sheppard and Tommy Nutter (ebay!), and those I wear when I want to look more "manly"; the Italian suits I wear to look a bit more stylish and "masculine", if anyone can follow that...

 

[culverwood]

What the Italians have to offer, again in my opinion, is that they can deliver a great product at a competitive price, which is something that the Brits really cannot get a handle on.

The Italians have long been masters at passing off items made in the Far East or Indian subcontinent as Made in Italy. The relaxed attitude to such practices in Italy has always been part of its charm.

I am Berwick St for suits, Jermyn St for shoes and Sackville St for shirts so London rather than English.

 

[alphadelta]

English suits
Italian shoes
Swiss watches
German cars
French wine
American stocks
Russian women
(not necessarily in that order)