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I was checking out blue Hilditch and Key dress shirts at Bromleys and saw they carry them in both poplin and end on end. Which type do you experienced H & K wearers prefer? Thanks in advance.
 

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As a general rule, I think that end-on-end looks better than a plain solid-colored poplin.

The white (assuming we're talking about blue/white end-on-end) makes the fabric look more interesting and less jarring.
 

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End-on-end (also called fil-a-fil) will have a slightly deeper quality to its color value because of the use of white threads in the weave, which many feel looks a bit richer.

One thing I've found w/ my H&K shirts is that the poplins are a tad more wear-resistant. The end-on-ends seem to begin fraying sooner at the critical wear points of collar tips and edges of double-cuff folds.

If you like end-on-end you might also want to consider something in a hairline (a.k.a. "mille-raie") stripe. H&K's Sale-by-Mail is currently offering a cutaway-collar shirt in a very handsome blue on white hairline that looks like solid blue from a distance but actually is made of very fine stripes placed very close together. It will go with just about any tie that would go with a solid-blue shirt, and has slightly more pattern interest even than an end-on-end:
 

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PJC in NoVa said:
The end-on-ends seem to begin fraying sooner at the critical wear points of collar tips and edges of double-cuff folds.
End-on-end is a specific color order of poplin cloth. If this is happening it is cloth quality difference, not the fact that it is end-on-end.
 

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End on end is somewhat less formal than poplin, however it's still a dress shirt suitable for all but the most formal occasions.

Oxford is much less formal than end on end, and many men will not wear it for business. Royal oxford, on the other hand, is only a little less formal and is fine for most business uses.
 

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I love the H&K end on end... However, I broke down and also ordered the Saxe blue poplin from Bromleys last year. I think there's room for both in one's wardrobe. And Bromleys are very good to deal with. As are Best of British Shirts, another source for H&K and other Jermyn St shirts. BoBS also ensures that their shirts are made in the British Isles, which otherwise is now left off many Jermyn St shirts.
 

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EE vs POPLIN

Dear Sir,

As a fabric supplier, I know that you also need to take
into account how the 2 are different in the way that
they respond to wash and wear.

If your poplin is piece dyed (cheaper option) it will fade over time.
There is a reduced chance of this if it is yarn dyed.

Also different batches of piece dyed fabrics tend to vary slightly
in colour, so you may not always get the exact shade each time.

With colour wovens (ee, harline, stripes etc) the shade
matching and colour fastness is much better.

Chris, Acorn Fabrics Ltd.
 
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