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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After completing an order on some custom shirts the owner of my local men's clothing store has asked me to consider doing a MTM suit with him through Empire Clothing. I have mentioned it on here before in that my goal was to do an action backed, half belted, 3-2 roll with a vest and patch pockets (think Jack Nicholson as JJ from Chinatown as inspiration). @Oldsarge recommended Hemrajani and I have been in contact with him but sadly can never seem to get my schedule and his to line up for the travel to meet him in either Portland or Seattle over the last year. That makes the local route much more appealing since they are now doing half belts and bi-swing action backs, however I do not have any experience with the company. Truthfully I wanted a center inverted box pleat but I could easily live with the bi-swing. I called the factory in Montreal and spoke to them and they stated they do a half canvassed garment with quality very similar/slightly above Jack Victor. I am curious if anyone on here has had experiences with the company on a MTM suit or sport coat?
 

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After completing an order on some custom shirts the owner of my local men's clothing store has asked me to consider doing a MTM suit with him through Empire Clothing. I have mentioned it on here before in that my goal was to do an action backed, half belted, 3-2 roll with a vest and patch pockets (think Jack Nicholson as JJ from Chinatown as inspiration). @Oldsarge recommended Hemrajani and I have been in contact with him but sadly can never seem to get my schedule and his to line up for the travel to meet him in either Portland or Seattle over the last year. That makes the local route much more appealing since they are now doing half belts and bi-swing action backs, however I do not have any experience with the company. Truthfully I wanted a center inverted box pleat but I could easily live with the bi-swing. I called the factory in Montreal and spoke to them and they stated they do a half canvassed garment with quality very similar/slightly above Jack Victor. I am curious if anyone on here has had experiences with the company on a MTM suit or sport coat?
Sorry, I have no experience with Empire.

But as a generality, when ordering MTM the experience of the retailer in measuring for and ordering from the specific manufacturer's MTM program are critical to the success of the garment. I'd wish to ask them point blank how much business they've done with them.

Beyond that, I too have a lot of confidence in O'Connell's quality, and have found in general that Canadian men's wear makers tend to make quality products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you fellas for all the tips and experiences! My local shop doesn’t do as much with Empire as they do Jack Victor pertaining to suits. However they do sell a ton of their top and overcoats. I am waiting for a picture of the action back and half belt back treatment on a sport coat to see how it looks. I will post pictures when I receive them and see what you gents think. Thanks again.
 

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Thank you fellas for all the tips and experiences! My local shop doesn't do as much with Empire as they do Jack Victor pertaining to suits. However they do sell a ton of their top and overcoats. I am waiting for a picture of the action back and half belt back treatment on a sport coat to see how it looks. I will post pictures when I receive them and see what you gents think. Thanks again.
Thanks, I'd like to see them.
 

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Quality of Empire is very close to JV, maybe a little above.
But that is still mediocre at best. JV does fused half canvas and I believe Empire does as well.

Before I did the model you are asking for from any MTM - I would make sure that they have experience in it and have done it. Better yet - do they have any photos of ones they have completed before?

I have seen them done by both John H Daniels, Southwick and Adrian Jules
and they were all done properly. They can also accommodate the inverted
back pleat that is much cooler than the bi-swing back.
You should probably also consider a throat latch tab, and if doing patch front pockets consider an inverted pleat on those as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Quality of Empire is very close to JV, maybe a little above.
But that is still mediocre at best. JV does fused half canvas and I believe Empire does as well.

Before I did the model you are asking for from any MTM - I would make sure that they have experience in it and have done it. Better yet - do they have any photos of ones they have completed before?

I have seen them done by both John H Daniels, Southwick and Adrian Jules
and they were all done properly. They can also accommodate the inverted
back pleat that is much cooler than the bi-swing back.
You should probably also consider a throat latch tab, and if doing patch front pockets consider an inverted pleat on those as well.
To my knowledge Empire is doing a free floating half canvas chest piece with the lower portion being fused. This information was given to me by Alex from Empire when I called the factory. I concede there are probably better companies with full canvassing but there are also plenty of much worse...

They have been offering the action back and half belt for close to decade, if not longer, as I thumbed through a 2009 MTM catalog and it was listed as a $50 add for that treatment. I am waiting to see some photos of the jscket before I ultimately do anything.

I prefer the rear inverted box pleat over the bi swing as well but having an option so close and convenient to me is helping me settle a little bit. I have never been crazy about the throat latch tab but the inverted pleated over the breast patch pocket I really like! I will look into Southwick though as I believe I may have a local location that has worked with them in the past...
 

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To my knowledge Empire is doing a free floating half canvas chest piece with the lower portion being fused. This information was given to me by Alex from Empire when I called the factory. I concede there are probably better companies with full canvassing but there are also plenty of much worse...

They have been offering the action back and half belt for close to decade, if not longer, as I thumbed through a 2009 MTM catalog and it was listed as a $50 add for that treatment. I am waiting to see some photos of the jscket before I ultimately do anything.

I prefer the rear inverted box pleat over the bi swing as well but having an option so close and convenient to me is helping me settle a little bit. I have never been crazy about the throat latch tab but the inverted pleated over the breast patch pocket I really like! I will look into Southwick though as I believe I may have a local location that has worked with them in the past...
Miscellanea -

PDF file of their MTM order form -
 
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