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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A steel cage grudge match battle to the death!!! (Only kidding, I must have been watching some Fox media. :icon_saint7kg:)

Rather, in reference to another thread, I revisited some videos of shoes being made by various manufacturers, and the first two I happened upon were Edward Green and St. Crispin. Edward Green is of course the heavy weight champion of Northampton while St. Crispin originates in Romania. But irrespective of origin, I won't even bother to characterize anyone who doesn't believe that both are beautifully made, very fine shoes indeed.

But I was struck by the differences in the processes between them. Green uses a great deal of hand work compared to some other UK makers, but St. Crispin uses almost no machines at all, with each process done individually by hand. Is that better? Is one make better than the other? I'll let those with sounder judgement make such determinations, but it's d**ned impressive to watch!

Edward Green Shoes -


St. Crispin Shoes -

 

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Just watched the one from St. Crispin's. Pretty amazing just how much they do by hand! And how close the welt craftsman comes to the uppers with his knife, without scratching it.

I do hope that glue they use throughout the process is low- VOC. I recently installed some Vibram half soles using contact cement, and even with a VOC mask I could smell it.

Great to see such attention to detail still being practiced.

Thanks for posting.
 

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Always a sucker for a good video, I watched both...fascinating, for sure, but I am left pondering as to whether the requisite talent will be there to complete said tasking(s) a decade in the future. A lot of skills are being lost as the years fly by! Not intending to imply any comparisons, but consider if you will, what is happening at Alden, as their skilled labor ages out. :(
 

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I don’t own any St. Crispin shoes but I do own Edward Green.

Setting aside any relative merits regarding construction method and quality, from a stylistic standpoint, they are simply different shoes and boots.

That SC may appear more elegant than EG may simply be a stylistic choice on the part of the shoemaker.

I really like the EGs that I own and I’m not sure I could be enticed to spend the premium on SC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Always a sucker for a good video, I watched both...fascinating, for sure, but I am left pondering as to whether the requisite talent will be there to complete said tasking(s) a decade in the future. A lot of skills are being lost as the years fly by! Not intending to imply any comparisons, but consider if you will, what is happening at Alden, as their skilled labor ages out. :(
A good point. The ability of St. Crispin to make an essentially handmade shoe at prices that at least the top end of the market is willing to pay is no doubt contingent on making them somewhere where individuals are, or are willing to become, highly skilled craftsman for wages that would not attract them elsewhere.

I don't own any St. Crispin shoes but I do own Edward Green.

Setting aside any relative merits regarding construction method and quality, from a stylistic standpoint, they are simply different shoes and boots.

That SC may appear more elegant than EG may simply be a stylistic choice on the part of the shoemaker.

I really like the EGs that I own and I'm not sure I could be enticed to spend the premium on SC.
While I've never had a pair of Edward Green footwear I like their shoes extremely well, and find their aesthetic to be in my "sweet spot." Irrespective of the exceptional quality and detail of St. Crispins, left to choose either, cost no object, I might well prefer the Edward Green shoe.
 

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A good point. The ability of St. Crispin to make an essentially handmade shoe at prices that at least the top end of the market is willing to pay is no doubt contingent on making them somewhere where individuals are, or are willing to become, highly skilled craftsman for wages that would not attract them elsewhere.

While I've never had a pair of Edward Green footwear I like their shoes extremely well, and find their aesthetic to be in my "sweet spot." Irrespective of the exceptional quality and detail of St. Crispins, left to choose either, cost no object, I might well prefer the Edward Green shoe.
Being in complete agreement with every point you make, I would only add that labor realities being what they seem to be, as time passes the greater the degree of hand work involved, the faster said brands prices will rise! As the rest of the world becomes aware of and/or desirous of the good life, cheap labor will become a quickly fading memory and it will cost us dearly. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Being in complete agreement with every point you make, I would only add that labor realities being what they seem to be, as time passes the greater the degree of hand work involved, the faster said brands prices will rise! As the rest of the world becomes aware of and/or desirous of the good life, cheap labor will become a quickly fading memory and it will cost us dearly. :(
Sadly, I think you are correct. :(

I'll take either one.

Stylistically they both have their place. The ability of St.C to tweak the last to almost customize it intrigues me. I covet both.
You know there's only one solution to wanting both!!! :D

"Resistance is futile!"

 

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I will say this, with the recent EG price increase, an oxford shoe now runs $1285 and that doesn't come with shoetrees. StC. now runs $1342 for an oxford on Skoaktiebolaget and that comes with lasted shoe trees. Even more intriguing is that the world of StC. MTO comes with no upcharge. Price plus "better" construction plus the ability to make last adjustments makes it pretty hard to argue against StC...and this is from someone who loves Edward Green and who doesn't own a single pair of St. Crispins.
 

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I will say this, with the recent EG price increase, an oxford shoe now runs $1285 and that doesn't come with shoetrees. StC. now runs $1342 for an oxford on Skoaktiebolaget and that comes with lasted shoe trees. Even more intriguing is that the world of StC. MTO comes with no upcharge. Price plus "better" construction plus the ability to make last adjustments makes it pretty hard to argue against StC...and this is from someone who loves Edward Green and who doesn't own a single pair of St. Crispins.
Bad influence.
 

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It was raining nonstop yesterday in Kauai. So to alleviate my boredom, I went surfing. Internet, no ocean.

Alas I could not find any St.C or EG that piqued my interest. Every style I saw I already have covered by something similar enough to prohibit taking the plunge.

I guess the only answer is an MTO from St.C, but I don’t know how to get fitted for their semi-customized lasts.

May have to wait for a trunk show in NYC if I ever take the plunge.
 

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It was raining nonstop yesterday in Kauai. So to alleviate my boredom, I went surfing. Internet, no ocean.

Alas I could not find any St.C or EG that piqued my interest. Every style I saw I already have covered by something similar enough to prohibit taking the plunge.

I guess the only answer is an MTO from St.C, but I don't know how to get fitted for their semi-customized lasts.

May have to wait for a trunk show in NYC if I ever take the plunge.
I have zero knowledge of Hawaiian geography but Leather Soul sells St. Crispins and I think they're based in Honolulu. Why not swing by while you're out there?
 

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Both beautiful shoes. i have neither, and i doubt that will change. I can see the appeal of the Dover, and the Galway, and aside from these two models I think the edge goes to St C.

Personally if I were spending that kind of money on a UK made shoe I would favor G&G. As for St C, I think there are other options at a better price point. E Bonafe, Rozsnyai have been great for me, wanting to try A Meccariello as well. If I get into $1300 + for shoes I'd probably just splurge even more and go bespoke for the whole experience around it.
 

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Regarding English shoes at that price, it's probably more what you like the look of and what fits you best. EG and G&G are both excellent. I love the beveled waist of a G&G but probably get a better fit from EG. I also prefer the looks of the EG 82 last over the G&G GG06 last (the only G&G round last I've tried). YMMV.

I have a number of pairs of Bonafe and they aren't in the same league as EG or G&G. The leather and finishing is inferior in comparison. However, they do fit my feet well and are a good value for the price.
 
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