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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I know that French cuffs are the most formal and as far as barrel cuffs go, the square ones are considered by many to be the most formal, but what about round barrel cuffs vs. the angled/mitered ones? In one of Mr. Kabbaz's earlier posts, he advised that round barrels are more common than mitered ones, but I haven't been able to determine which of the two is considered to be more formal, if either. Is it strictly a matter of personal taste? I do not want French cuffs on the next few shirts that I get and it seems as though the MTM shirt makers that I'm currently considering do not offer square barrel cuffs as an option. I currently do not have any shirts with the mitered/angled cuffs, but am intrigued by the look and am thinking about it for my next order. Any thoughts?
 

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There are many different cuffs available ....

besides French cuffs. One button, two-button, squared, mitred, and even the T&A trademark 3-button cuff. I would suggest you do some research on what's available in English, Italian, and American shirts before making any decision. And are you sure you need mtm? Many people opt for mtm because they have tried department store shirts and thought they needed something more. For some different shirts try looking at the Duchamp of London site. The one thing French cuffs have in common with button cuffs is the amount of cuff to be shown under a jacket. They both require 1/4" to 1/2" shown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And are you sure you need mtm? Many people opt for mtm because they have tried department store shirts and thought they needed something more.
I've decided to go with MTM because like suits, it's nearly impossible for me to find OTR dress shirts that fit well. I am tall with an athletic build and find that the shirts that fit me in the neck, shoulders, and chest, are huge in the stomach, waist, and hips. I've had shirts like this tapered before, but they never come out looking like I want them to. I've looked for "slim/athletic/tailored fit" OTR shirts to help alleviate this problem, but my other issue is that I need a 37" sleeve and have yet to find a manufacturer that offers a slim fit shirt with that sleeve length.

I'm not looking to spend more than about $100 a piece on these shirts. Currently I'm leaning towards trying Ginoshirt.com or reordering from Lands End Custom (I ordered a shirt from them a year or so ago and was relatively pleased with it for the price.)
 

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If you want square-cut barrel cuffs as the MTM makers if they can do it for you. They need to have at least 2 buttons to keep the cuff in place to look square. Turnbull & Asser have their classic 3-button cuff, so you might want to see if any makers you are considering can do this.
 

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I don't think the choice between angled vs. round cuffs is a question of formality...more a question of preference. I like round cuffs better than angled ones because they seem to avoid catching dirt on the edges whereas French cuffs, square cuffs, and angled cuffs get dirty so quickly. I think they all look appealing if they are the correct length, although almost every woman I know seems to love French cuffs much more than any button cuff design.
 

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Skillet,
I don't know what your personal thoughts and financial situation are in refference to Mens Wearhouse and Jos. Bank. However, I get most of my shirts from JAB because they offer exact lengths as I need a 38" sleeve. I can also get shirts from MW but they do run very large. What I like to do is find a shirt that fits neck and sleeve( 17.5 x 38) and then get it tailored. Its like $10 to have the sides drawn in as I am tapered to my waist as well. If you want to spend $50 or so and get a descent shirt tailored to fit thats my recommendation. If you can spend $200 then definitely get MTM, but my route works well for me.
 

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On the cuffs, as others have said, there's no formality difference, it's just a matter of personal taste.

On the m2m or not to m2m, I HIGHLY recommend it as the place where you get the most bang for your buck. You can bring in the sides of the RTW shirt, but you can't make the arm-hole much smaller, and in any case, a custom shirt from CEGO or similar is a great deal. (Speaking of which, I'll probably be in in the next month or two Carl...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Skillet,
I don't know what your personal thoughts and financial situation are in refference to Mens Wearhouse and Jos. Bank. However, I get most of my shirts from JAB because they offer exact lengths as I need a 38" sleeve. I can also get shirts from MW but they do run very large. What I like to do is find a shirt that fits neck and sleeve( 17.5 x 38) and then get it tailored. Its like $10 to have the sides drawn in as I am tapered to my waist as well. If you want to spend $50 or so and get a descent shirt tailored to fit thats my recommendation. If you can spend $200 then definitely get MTM, but my route works well for me.
Like you, I currently get most of my shirts from JAB. I really like their Traveler shirts for everyday wear and they are frequently on sale/clearance to where you can pick them up for $20-$30 a piece, which is a definite bargain. I also have a 17.5 neck, but 37" sleeves in my case. I do get the shirts taken in, but the tailor usually has to take in about 5" around the waist because they fit like a tent. The end result is definitely much better than it was, but it just doesn't look/fit quite like I'd prefer. I can certainly live with this fact for day to day wear, since I have an occupation that can be hard on clothes, but I'd like to get a few shirts for outside-of-work and more formal occasions that look and fit better. The MTM's I've been looking at are around $100, so it's not a totally outrageous price.
 
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