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Hi

I'm interested in a double breasted sports coat/jacket From what I understand it is similar to a single breasted sports coat but should the fit be a bit looser? I am familiar with leaving the bottom button unfastened as well as using the jigger button. When one is sitting does one unbutton a double breasted coat? From my readings, unlike a single breasted coat, when sitting the coat should remain fastened. Does this mean the double breasted should fit a bit looser? I am looking at a camel hair blazer also any recommendations on brands would be appreciated.

Also with respects to a DB overcoat since one wears a suit or blazer with the overcoat I presume the fit is a bit looser as well. Also I've contemplated having different sizes overcoats. One to wear with a suit or blazer ( A bit looser overcoat) and another, with a dress shirt or cashmere sweater (more fit overcoat).
Once again thank you for your help.
 

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For the overcoat (a I am in the process of acquiring one), the consensus seems to be the chest/waist needs to be +1/+2” larger than the suit coat. So a 21” chest on a suit coat needs a 22”-23” overcoat. I would assume that is the same whether SB/DB on the overcoat.

I do have one lighter overcoat that I normally wear with just shirt. It is tighter fitting; slightly bigger than my normal sport coat measurement. It works well for me.


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Clearly an overcoat if worn over a jacket (sport or suit) needs to be a tad larger than otherwise. My modest experience on overcoats (owning perhaps 6 or so) is that the size takes into account this disparity so a 42R overcoat is going to be a bit larger in size than a 42R sports jacket (all things equal - same manufacturer/same fit, etc...) Pay close attention to measurements in the shoulder and chest and know what measurements fit you best and you should be successful. I agree that having a car coat or something similar that you intend to wear simply, (without a sports jacket) is reasonable to get in either a smaller size or perhaps a slim fit (they do exist even in overcoats).
 

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A sports coat should only fit larger than a suit jacket if you are always going to be wearing a sweater under it. If you're not wearing a sweater under your jacket, it should fit the same as a suit jacket should. A double-breasted jacket is probably better without a sweater, so you should have it fit the same as a double-breasted suit jacket. For sitting, if the button stance is right then you don't need it to fit looser. A loose-fitting double-breasted jacket looks terrible. Unlike on a single-breasted jacket, the bottom button on a double-breasted jacket may be fastened, but it's more difficult to sit with the bottom button fastened.

Overcoats should all be meant to fit over jackets. There are pea coats and duffel coats for when you're not wearing a jacket.
 

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Agree with Matt S and SG_67 that a DB should not fit looser. Indeed with the extra fabric a loose fit looks really bad on a DB due to the folds of the fabric when closed - that goes for suits and overcoats. And unlike a SB where you can leave it unbuttoned and you can to some extent hide a poor fit there is little room for error on a DB.
 

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Dr. Pain:

From the Frequently Asked Questions page linked from the Home Page:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/faq-frequently-asked-questions/#buttons

Double-breasted suits are sold in different button configurations, usually indicated at "6 to 2" (meaning six buttons, two to be buttoned) or "6 to 1" (only one button to be closed) or "4 to 1", etc.

The 6 or 8 button models with all the buttons designed to fasten are primarily Navy uniforms or old Edwardian styles. Most DB jackets will have two functioning buttons.

If you have a DB jacket that has two buttons that function you can close 1) the top working button, 2) both the buttons, like the very conservative Prince Charles, or 3) follow the innovative style of a 1920s Duke of Kent and close only the lower button. This Duke of Kent style presents a longer line to the front of the jacket giving you a long, lean look.

The DB jacket should always been kept closed which can be a disadvantage. If you unbutton your jacket the fabric bulks up around your middle.

And from The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes:

Buy a coat that's one size larger than your suit size.
 

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When it comes to buying an overcoat, I always like to try it on with a coat in the store. So, I'll either walk into the store with one of my coats on, or I'll at least put one on in the store just to see how the overcoat feels with a jacket. Because it's hard to tell an overcoat's fit when you don't have a jacket on. I'm not experienced enough to make that judgment call. So, when I buy an overcoat, I actually just walk into the store in a suit so I know that the fit is really what I'm looking for.
 
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