[The Irishman]

Gentlemen,

I am interested in a double breasted overcoat. As it will be worn over suits perhaps the right term is actually topcoat, I don't know.

Thinking navy or another dark colour.

Budget wise I don't think I'd like to spend more than (maximum) 1000 GBP.

Recommendations?

Crombie seems to have fallen a little from what they used to be but at the moment they have double breasted coats on sale, for example.

 

[derum]

Gentlemen,

I am interested in a double breasted overcoat. As it will be worn over suits perhaps the right term is actually topcoat, I don't know.

Thinking navy or another dark colour.

Budget wise I don't think I'd like to spend more than (maximum) 1000 GBP.

Recommendations?

Crombie seems to have fallen a little from what they used to be but at the moment they have double breasted coats on sale, for example.

For double breasted I think that you could not do better than a navy herringbone Crombie King Coat.
There is of course, always the Polo coat, which you can find in many department stores within your budget.

 

[Adelstensfostre]

For double breasted I think that you could not do better than a navy herringbone Crombie King Coat.

Let me second this. I agree that Crombie's cloths is perhaps not quite what they were in the days of yore (which is likely to do with what the market wants and nothing to do with Crombie as such), but for prices which mere mortals can deal with you really can't do any better than the King.

I don't own one myself, but I've handled and tried it on a couple of times. It was a superb coat in every respect and unless it has changed drastically in the last four or five years I'd say you can't do significantly better at any price.

 

[The Irishman]

Thanks derum. I have read a few articles mentioning the value to be had in the Cordings covert coat... But I have had covert coats before, and I'm just not interested in something like that or a chesterfie

 

[The Irishman]

Thanks guys, I’m going to visit the Crombie store next weekend. The King looks like an option and I would also consider their Military coat.

Mark Powell does an Ulster coat called the Marshall which I think is amazing looking but I just don’t think it is work suitable, it’s got lapels like aeroplane wings.

Since the original question is answered I will open another can of worms - who are the “off row” tailors to consider these days? For bespoke suiting. Some threads here are a little old now.

 

[derum]

Thanks guys, I'm going to visit the Crombie store next weekend. The King looks like an option and I would also consider their Military coat.

Mark Powell does an Ulster coat called the Marshall which I think is amazing looking but I just don't think it is work suitable, it's got lapels like aeroplane wings.

Since the original question is answered I will open another can of worms - who are the "off row" tailors to consider these days? For bespoke suiting. Some threads here are a little old now.

Charlie Allen has a good reputation, I am thinking of going to him in the new year.

 

[culverwood]

I still use Chris Kerr sometimes. Quick service and they do a lot of film work. The were working on Downton the movie when I was last in.

I popped into Crombie the other week and came out empty handed but it was probably to warm to think of buying an overcoat and I already had too many. Ede and Ravenscroft may be worth a look I have one from them though not double breasted which gets a lot of wear.

 

[London380sl]

I'd suggest checking out a few thrift stores first. With the move to business casual overcoats aren't that popular any more and often go for a song. I picked up a practically new Crombie Sealskin overcoat for $30 ( about 18 GBP) last spring.

If you are committed to buying new try Adam of London. I've read some good thing about them. Check their website to see if the overcoats are of interest

https://www.adamoflondon.com/aol_newshop/index.php?l=product_list&c=5

and pop in there if you're in London. Their address is

11 Portobello Green Arcade
281 Portobello Road
London W10 5TZ

 

[The Irishman]

Spent some time in Crombie on Conduit St and tried their Military Inspired and also the King in a variety of fabrics... A heavy Melton and various herringbone etc.

In the end, although it was a close thing, I got a Belstaff Milford instead. It was a better fit and, although somewhat more casual, I rationalized the decision by telling myself I will simply by a Crombie King in their winter sale ... Best of both worlds.

 

[Adelstensfostre]

I wasn't aware of Belstaff (or had forgotten...), but the Milford certainly looks like a very nice coat.

 

[The Irishman]

I've been buying their leather jackets for many years. They've gone through their ups and downs but the quality remains good.

The Milford has had several incarnations over the years and the dubious distinction of being the coat worn by Benedict Cumberbatch in Sherlock (although his is a tweed iteration I think). I was a fan of the coat before I was aware of the Sherlock connection, however.

In brand terms I am probably more aligned with Crombie than Belstaff these days, but of everything I tried on it was the best fit, and had a few elements I found interesting, so... There we go...

I'm going to keep an eye out for a King in 42R on ebay, however. Just need to get it taken in a little and will be a perfect more formal option.

 

[Adelstensfostre]

I always loved Sherlock's coat and it was indeed a tweed job and a bit longer than the Milford. Personally I'm eyeing Crombie's military coat in navy or grey off and on, but since I'm hardly in need of another winter coat I've so far resisted temptation. The King is entirely too formal for any use to which I can put it and I'm less than fond of the very high chest pockets on the Belstaff. If not for those I would have transferred my fixation onto it, as I really like the patch pockets.

How would you say the Belstaff's melton felt and compared to Crombie's pure wool?

 

[The Irishman]

I tried two current season Militaries in a lighter navy and grey from the current season and they also had a dark navy in a heavier wool that was on sale from last season (on their site at the moment still). As you say, nice coat, and style wise less formal than the King.

As far as the comparison of materials goes: The Crombie's melton is heavier, stiffer and more akin to a vintage peacoat I have. The Milford feels a little more pliable, maybe due to only being 75% wool (5% cashmere and 20% something else..) but it could simply be that it's a lighter weight coat, frankly. Neither would bother me but the Crombie would certainly be better in very cold weather.

 

[derum]

I've been buying their leather jackets for many years. They've gone through their ups and downs but the quality remains good.

The Milford has had several incarnations over the years and the dubious distinction of being the coat worn by Benedict Cumberbatch in Sherlock (although his is a tweed iteration I think). I was a fan of the coat before I was aware of the Sherlock connection, however.

In brand terms I am probably more aligned with Crombie than Belstaff these days, but of everything I tried on it was the best fit, and had a few elements I found interesting, so... There we go...

I'm going to keep an eye out for a King in 42R on ebay, however. Just need to get it taken in a little and will be a perfect more formal option.

With you on Belstaff quality. I have many of their motorcycle jackets, both leather and wax, but lately the Italian influence has become more marked, giving everything a really snug fit and a lot of it is fashion forward. In their New Bond St. store you actually have to go into a special section at the back of the store for motorcycle gear.
The Milford is a fine choice though. Did you go for the Black or the Moss green?

 

[The Irishman]

I tried the green - initially they couldn't find it in black - but for me a darker colour is preferable. In the Crombies I had been looking at navy.

As far as Belstaff goes- although I own some non-core items (A 'Brad' jacket and a 'Gangster' blouson jacket) I think the best purchases I made were classic - a belted 'Panther' and a 'Roadmaster'.

My wife has a pair of boots from them and I am 99% sure they are using Tricker's.

Totally agree that at this point they are more Italian than English as a company in terms of feel, it seems.