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It seems to me, and I may be very much mistaken, that trads buy off the rack, generally, because: (1) bespoke is usually "stylish" and stylish is not trad; (2) trad is not meant to fit terribly well, just well enough, and that can be achieved, in most cases, off the rack, with some adjustments of course. Question: would anybody spend $5K or more for a sack suit?

Thoughts/comments?
 

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Why do you think Brooks & Press have custom shops? Or for that matter how Chipp's still in business?

Just because it's made to order doesn't mean it must be stylish and trendy. One can order a gloriously fogeyesque flannel chalkstripe as easily as a super 180's falls-apart-after-a-wear-&-a-half masterpiece.
 

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Don't know if I'm a trad or not but my dj in mtm so custom shouldn't be a problem. I think fit is always important.

A sack from O'Connels, J Press or BB would be more traditional.

I would love to see the face of a Saville Row tailer asked to make a sack suit though.
 

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The best place to get the true "Trad" look now is in the traditinal bespoke tailors: Winston (Chipp), BB and Press MTM, the Andover Shop etc. The essence of Trad is well made clothing worn with effortless ease.
 

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Thrift may be a trad virtue (although I think that's debatable), but there are a few forumites who purchase or have recently purchased bespoke items. So long as it fits well and is long-lasting, I don't have any particular issue.

Bespoke items are custom-made to the buyer's specifications as it is.
 

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I would certainly never pay $5K for a suit, nor I suspect would many of the posters on the other forum.

I have never had much of a problem purchasing off the rack in the past. Generally only needed minor alterations on the sleeve. However, my most recent suit was a Southwick Douglas MTM offered during a sale at a local clothing shop. The fit is superb and it is now my favorite suit. I think I will make any future suit purchases via MTM.
 

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When people purchase Trad clothing OTR, I doubt it is because they fear being stylish or because they are content with a poor fit.

I believe that my wardrobe would be considered Trad and all of my sport coats and suits are MTM. I don't buy tailored clothing from BB, but I understand they still have a few sack suits, but far fewer than they used to. Other than BB, the only place in this state that I would know to look for Trad clothing is Cable Car Clothiers in San Francisco which is 400 miles away and unless they have changed, is far from thrifty.

I would not spend $5,000 for anything made of fabric unless I needed new sails for my sloop - and I would need to buy the boat first.
 

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It seems to me, and I may be very much mistaken, that trads buy off the rack, generally, because: (1) bespoke is usually "stylish" and stylish is not trad; (2) trad is not meant to fit terribly well, just well enough, and that can be achieved, in most cases, off the rack, with some adjustments of course. Question: would anybody spend $5K or more for a sack suit?

Thoughts/comments?
I guarantee Paul Winston (Chipp II) could find some lovely things to do with $5k. Just because a suit isn't a shoulder level gorge, mid-chest buttoned, low rise trouser abomination doesn't mean it can't fit properly. And that you won't benefit via greater comfort and smarter appearance.
 

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I think trads can do whatever they want. After all, it is the concept of free will that underlines the American dresser (and everything else he does). He, unlike, say the British, is not bound to a centuries old hierarchy that always reminds him of his place. The answer is no way. I don't think modesty is a foundation of tradliness. If one (freely) chooses to live modestly or wear full fitting clothes, then it is through one's American given right to do so?? I think the key word here is free will, free will to dress anyway one wants, which is quite in contrast to British tradition and knowing one's place.
 

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The idea that Trad is OTR-only and custom is not Trad is ridiculous if Trad is understood to mean anything other than budget-minded Ask Andy Trad. Historic, Ivy League style always had an MTM and custom element for those that could afford it.
Thank you very much! :teacha:

I may not be Trad, but I certainly am traditional. Why? Because that's the way I've dressed for over 50 years.
 
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