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I went to see my tailor today about getting started on my new dinner jacket and I’ve got a question about fabric weights.

The only book of evening wear fabrics he had on hand was Scabal’s. I want this to be a very classic dinner jacket, so I’m leaning towards barathea. Scabal has two weights 9.88 oz and 11.3 oz.

Neither of these seems over the top heavy to me HOWEVER, I am going to have the jacket lined in Damascene silk which I bought in Damascus just for this years ago (a nice red on black paisley that is iridescent, and to me anyways a real work of art) which I’m sure is going to be hotter than a normal Bemberg lining.

If I get it made in time, I will use this for a couple of black tie events I have later this fall, but it really getting made for my wedding this coming February. I’m normally a pretty warm blooded person but I’m worried about the lighter one not draping as well and the heavier one being too warm.

Can anyone give me some guidance
 

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Weight on swatches are a guide- not an absolute. The two clothes you are considering are quite close in weight. One of the Holland & Sherry Barathea clothes is labeled 10-11 ounces. Your tailor will use about 2 yards of cloth to make your dinner jacket. That translates into about 2 ounces spread over the entire coat. You are correct in thinking, everything else being equal, that a heavier cloth will drape better. The weight of the cloth is not the only factor in the "comfort" formula. The the weave and your mind set are equally important. From what you have said, I think you will be happier with the 11.3.
 

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Take the heavier cloth, it will make very little difference in terms of heat to wear, but will crease a great deal less and will drape a lot better. I have a very light weight DJ and it needs constant ironing and steaming, even sitting in a car on the way to a night out creases it.
 

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Mohair? I would skip the silk, personally. Bemberg wears a lot better and indeed would probably save you a bit of sweat.
 

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That is a pretty good idea, too. I don't know why I didn't think of that, as pretty much all of my jackets are quarter or half-lined.
 

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My 20 year old Dinner Jacket (please don't call it a "tux"!) bespoke from Chipp is a light weight 9 or 10 oz. I agree that most occasions that I wear it are heated, and usually dancing is invoved, so while heavier fabrics do indeed tailor better, one has to be practical at times.
 
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