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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings friends,

I am living in Beijing and am looking to commission my first dinner jacket and trousers (having grown up on the West coast of the US I've had little reason to own one before, but now feel the necessity of having my own). I've been reading all that I can, on this forum and elsewhere (even finally found some exerpts from Flusser's book), and had initially decided upon a very traditional point lapel SB 1 button - very similar to the one that Darren has up on his website.

However, I have been unable to locate either grosgrain for the lapel or a proper barathea weave wool for the body. All the wool that is produced locally is smooth worsted and looks rather common; I had hoped to use barathea to ensure that the jacket did not resemble a day suit. All of the silk that I can find is either of the satin variety or of some sort of Chinese pattern, which, while interesting, is not the way to go with my first dinner jacket.

So I am currently at a bit of a loss - Flusser states that the only proper material for the lapel on a SB point lapel dinner jacket is grosgrain. However, he does mention that a satin silk can be used on a shawl collar dinner jacket, which makes me wonder if I should, given the material constraints here, opt for a shawl collar rather than a point lapel.

What is the concensus on these boards? Shawl versus point on a dinner jacket? If body type is a consideration, I am 6'2", 170 lbs with a slim athletic build - I wear about a 41 Long in OTR jacket sizing, and have a 36" inseam, rather ridiculously long legs for my height. Would the shawl collar over emphasize the tall and thin look? Or just accentuate it nicely? How formal is the shawl collar in comparrison to the point lapel? And if I can't find a barathea weave wool, are there any suggestions as to how to ensure that the jacket does not resemble a day suit? And what is the concensus on vents and dinner jackets? None or double?

I apologize for the length of the post, but I've been truly enjoying thinking and reading as much as possible about clothing after having stumbled upon this site, and I have accumulated quite the list of questions.


Budget Dandy
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