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Did I do any better (From online to in-store MTM)

2K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Matt S 
#1 ·

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#6 · (Edited)
... the shoulders span out a bit far. It would be better if they were taken in a bit.
You don't just take shoulders in a bit. That's not how it works. The entire sleeve is removed, the shoulder and padding cropped, to a very precise, and usually very small, i. e., 3/8ths inch, measurement. Then the sleeve is aligned with the jacket and sewn, by hand, back on. Finally, the lining is reattached (after trimming, but not always necessary).

Your shoulder width looks fine as-is. A little wavy though, but may be just the pic. A prosthetic (padding) in your left shoulder might be considered, it's very low. All in all you look good. Does this merchant include eye glasses, you didn't have them before?
 
#9 · (Edited)
A common way to determine proper shoulder width is to correlate it to the anatomical shoulder. Another way is to match it to head size. Since the real shoulder can't be seen, but the head always can, I go with this way. And the proportions shown in the pics seem correct.

But the shoulders themselves, the construction, seem lacking. The left, the dropped one, looks best. But you can't drop the right to match, so the right becomes the criterion and the other is built up (maybe). The right looks lumpy though. A good pressing over a tailor's ham (or over an oven mitt over the back of a fist) may correct this.
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Since the body is seldom viewed as in a police station line up and is seen from different angles combined with it often being in motion, a dropped shoulder sometimes isn't noticed. The OP admits he didn't know about his until it was discussed here. So except for the one-time act of precise tailoring, OP, I wouldn't let it concern me on a daily basis. Mine doesn't.
 
#10 ·
I have the same problem though not as pronounced as the OP. My tailor compensates with a slight bit of padding which raises that shoulder to effectively match the other, then proceed with sleeve length alteration. To the OP, put the jacket on then take a folded handkerchief and place it on your shoulder, the one that droops, between jacket and your shoulder in effect adding padding and notice the difference. Not exact but you'll get the idea. If you look closely you'll notice the ripple under the breast pocket on the left, caused by the droop, that will probably look better as well.
Looks pretty good otherwise.
 
#11 ·
Going back and having a second look, this time on a bigger screen vs. my phone, I can see what’s going on a bit better.

Yes....adjusting the shoulder to include some padding would help to solve the issue. Viewed closer and more clearly, but appears to be an overextended shoulder is simply the shoulder having collapsed due to the OP’s depressed left shoulder girdle. That’s what is giving that dimples appearance at the head of the sleeve.
 
#12 ·
I call them divots and yes generally caused by excessive shoulder width, I think we can all agree that all the issues should be addressed and corrected by the shop that provided the MTM service.

A tailor should not have allowed that suit go out until corrections were made. We can evaluate from online pics, why not the tailor in the flesh.

To the OP, I suggest you take it back and have the problems corrected. You paid for a proper fitting suit and the result should be just that.
 
#13 ·
I have the same problem though not as pronounced as the OP. My tailor compensates with a slight bit of padding which raises that shoulder to effectively match the other, then proceed with sleeve length alteration. To the OP, put the jacket on then take a folded handkerchief and place it on your shoulder, the one that droops, between jacket and your shoulder in effect adding padding and notice the difference. Not exact but you'll get the idea. If you look closely you'll notice the ripple under the breast pocket on the left, caused by the droop, that will probably look better as well.
Looks pretty good otherwise.
I will talk to my tailor about this -- thank you for your comment!
 
#14 ·
Definitely I think this OTR choice is better than the MTM, the beforementioned issues included. Yes, I agree with the comments regarding the shoulders, but am worried that any "fix" may be worse than what you have now, which is IMO by and large acceptable. I think the suggestions put forth are in the realm of a really experienced tailor, and I'm not at all comfortable that you have that level of skill locally. You could wear that suit out "as is" and it'd be very acceptable. I think part of the overall issue stems from that you're pretty built up in the shoulders, and that may account for much of the suits drape. In either case I think it't pretty good. I'd say with, apart from maybe slightly lengthening the suit sleeves vs. shortening shirt sleeves, I'd close the book on this suit.

On a future note, I think your body habitus might lend itself well to a more unstructured suit jacket. A jacket with less-padded shoulders would follow your own natural shoulder, and the drape of the suit sleeve over your shoulder/deltoid area would perhaps be smoother without the "dimple" at the top of the sleeve. It can often come across as a more casual look, but I've seen it done with Italian suiting to very nice effect.
 
#16 ·
I call them divots and yes generally caused by excessive shoulder width, I think we can all agree that all the issues should be addressed and corrected by the shop that provided the MTM service.
Divots are caused by a poorly fitted sleeve, not a wide shoulder. Narrow upper sleeves are usually to blame. Look at 1940s Hollywood and you'll see how wide shoulders do not cause divots.

Remaking the shoulders narrower may help, but the sleeve will still be too narrow.
 
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