[pfjoshb]

Hey everyone. I posted 4 or 5 weeks ago regarding my experience with Oliver Wicks. I decided to take everyone's advice and ditch the online MTM (for now at least).

Original thread: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/threads/fit-check-online-mtm-oliver-wicks.242459/

Let me know what you think of this fit. Thanks!

40R, VBC, Coppley

 

[SG_67]

Overall it looks much better. A couple of things:

1) sleeves seem a touch short
2) the shoulders span out a bit far. It would be better if they were taken in a bit.

otherwise , it looks like a good fit.

 

[pfjoshb]

Thank you for the reply! I was thinking similar -- I wonder if my shirt being a tad long is exacerbating the situation as well.

 

[Color 8]

Does your left shoulder drop as much as in the photos if you stand as straight as possible, or is it just the way you're standing ?

 

[pfjoshb]

It drops pretty considerably even when standing as straight as possible. It was something I actually never noticed until the person made me stand in front of a grid for pictures at the suit shop

 

[Peak and Pine]

... the shoulders span out a bit far. It would be better if they were taken in a bit.

You don't just take shoulders in a bit. That's not how it works. The entire sleeve is removed, the shoulder and padding cropped, to a very precise, and usually very small, i. e., 3/8ths inch, measurement. Then the sleeve is aligned with the jacket and sewn, by hand, back on. Finally, the lining is reattached (after trimming, but not always necessary).

Your shoulder width looks fine as-is. A little wavy though, but may be just the pic. A prosthetic (padding) in your left shoulder might be considered, it's very low. All in all you look good. Does this merchant include eye glasses, you didn't have them before?

 

[pfjoshb]

Haha free frames would be awesome! But no, I just didn't wear them last time. (Warby Parker if anyone is wondering)

Thank you for the comments. I definitely feel MUCH more confident in this suit.

 

[SG_67]

You don't just take shoulders in a bit. That's not how it works. The entire sleeve is removed, the shoulder and padding cropped, to a very precise, and usually very small, i. e., 3/8ths inch, measurement. Then the sleeve is aligned with the jacket and sewn, by hand, back on. Finally, the lining is reattached (after trimming, but not always necessary).

Your shoulder width looks fine as-is. A little wavy though, but may be just the pic. A prosthetic (padding) in your left shoulder might be considered, it's very low. All in all you look good. Does this merchant include eye glasses, you didn't have them before?

a bit wasn't an expression of the technical problems associated with it. I've had this done and know what it involves. It doesn't change the fact that the shoulders extend out too far.

his shoulders need to be adjusted....a bit. Meaning not a lot. Not a bit as in"piece of cake!"

As for the rest, all I have to go off of is the pic so if the issue can be addressed by some other means, then he and the tailor should discuss the options.

as for everything else, I agree. It looks good

 

[Peak and Pine]

A common way to determine proper shoulder width is to correlate it to the anatomical shoulder. Another way is to match it to head size. Since the real shoulder can't be seen, but the head always can, I go with this way. And the proportions shown in the pics seem correct.

But the shoulders themselves, the construction, seem lacking. The left, the dropped one, looks best. But you can't drop the right to match, so the right becomes the criterion and the other is built up (maybe). The right looks lumpy though. A good pressing over a tailor's ham (or over an oven mitt over the back of a fist) may correct this.
.
Since the body is seldom viewed as in a police station line up and is seen from different angles combined with it often being in motion, a dropped shoulder sometimes isn't noticed. The OP admits he didn't know about his until it was discussed here. So except for the one-time act of precise tailoring, OP, I wouldn't let it concern me on a daily basis. Mine doesn't.

 

[EclecticSr.]

I have the same problem though not as pronounced as the OP. My tailor compensates with a slight bit of padding which raises that shoulder to effectively match the other, then proceed with sleeve length alteration. To the OP, put the jacket on then take a folded handkerchief and place it on your shoulder, the one that droops, between jacket and your shoulder in effect adding padding and notice the difference. Not exact but you'll get the idea. If you look closely you'll notice the ripple under the breast pocket on the left, caused by the droop, that will probably look better as well.
Looks pretty good otherwise.

 

[SG_67]

Going back and having a second look, this time on a bigger screen vs. my phone, I can see what’s going on a bit better.

Yes....adjusting the shoulder to include some padding would help to solve the issue. Viewed closer and more clearly, but appears to be an overextended shoulder is simply the shoulder having collapsed due to the OP’s depressed left shoulder girdle. That’s what is giving that dimples appearance at the head of the sleeve.

 

[EclecticSr.]

I call them divots and yes generally caused by excessive shoulder width, I think we can all agree that all the issues should be addressed and corrected by the shop that provided the MTM service.

A tailor should not have allowed that suit go out until corrections were made. We can evaluate from online pics, why not the tailor in the flesh.

To the OP, I suggest you take it back and have the problems corrected. You paid for a proper fitting suit and the result should be just that.

 

[pfjoshb]

I have the same problem though not as pronounced as the OP. My tailor compensates with a slight bit of padding which raises that shoulder to effectively match the other, then proceed with sleeve length alteration. To the OP, put the jacket on then take a folded handkerchief and place it on your shoulder, the one that droops, between jacket and your shoulder in effect adding padding and notice the difference. Not exact but you'll get the idea. If you look closely you'll notice the ripple under the breast pocket on the left, caused by the droop, that will probably look better as well.
Looks pretty good otherwise.

I will talk to my tailor about this -- thank you for your comment!

 

[medhat]

Definitely I think this OTR choice is better than the MTM, the beforementioned issues included. Yes, I agree with the comments regarding the shoulders, but am worried that any "fix" may be worse than what you have now, which is IMO by and large acceptable. I think the suggestions put forth are in the realm of a really experienced tailor, and I'm not at all comfortable that you have that level of skill locally. You could wear that suit out "as is" and it'd be very acceptable. I think part of the overall issue stems from that you're pretty built up in the shoulders, and that may account for much of the suits drape. In either case I think it't pretty good. I'd say with, apart from maybe slightly lengthening the suit sleeves vs. shortening shirt sleeves, I'd close the book on this suit.

On a future note, I think your body habitus might lend itself well to a more unstructured suit jacket. A jacket with less-padded shoulders would follow your own natural shoulder, and the drape of the suit sleeve over your shoulder/deltoid area would perhaps be smoother without the "dimple" at the top of the sleeve. It can often come across as a more casual look, but I've seen it done with Italian suiting to very nice effect.

 

[medhat]

Sorry, my bad. Didn't realize this was bricks and mortar MTM. Who measured you for the suit, the store or was there a company rep?

 

[Matt S]

I call them divots and yes generally caused by excessive shoulder width, I think we can all agree that all the issues should be addressed and corrected by the shop that provided the MTM service.

Divots are caused by a poorly fitted sleeve, not a wide shoulder. Narrow upper sleeves are usually to blame. Look at 1940s Hollywood and you'll see how wide shoulders do not cause divots.

Remaking the shoulders narrower may help, but the sleeve will still be too narrow.

 

[Flanderian]

Divots are caused by a poorly fitted sleeve, not a wide shoulder. Narrow upper sleeves are usually to blame. Look at 1940s Hollywood and you'll see how wide shoulders do not cause divots.

Remaking the shoulders narrower may help, but the sleeve will still be too narrow.

Thank you, Matt! 👍

A very important explanation for a frequently misunderstood issue.

(Now, someone explain it to makers! )

 

[EclecticSr.]

Divots are caused by a poorly fitted sleeve, not a wide shoulder. Narrow upper sleeves are usually to blame. Look at 1940s Hollywood and you'll see how wide shoulders do not cause divots.

Remaking the shoulders narrower may help, but the sleeve will still be too narrow.

I agree, I put it quite poorly. I don't think the suit shoulders are too wide, but it seems the OP's shoulders are pushing past the sleeve head, I was referring to his shoulder width and agree , sleeves too tight. The OP seems to have broad shoulders, witness shirt fit. My bad.

I believe your in N.Y. and hope all is well with you and everyone else .

 

[Matt S]

I agree, I put it quite poorly. I don't think the suit shoulders are too wide, but it seems the OP's shoulders are pushing past the sleeve head, I was referring to his shoulder width and agree , sleeves too tight. The OP seems to have broad shoulders, witness shirt fit. My bad.

I believe your in N.Y. and hope all is well with you and everyone else .

I'm in NYC and have not been outdoors for quite some time! Thank you for your concern. Most people I know are okay, though some have caught something but can't get tested.