It looks like some sort of cotton.
Huddersfield Fine Worsteds is one of the few places I can find a heavier wool gabardine these days. Most are the same weight as what Holland & Sherry sell. I suspect most of the English cloth merchants sell the same gabardine from the same mill. Most gabardine looks flat but has a subtle sheen. For something with more interest at a heavier weight, whipcord is better. See here:I'm afraid that's a very flat chocolate. Something a bit richer like Dean's trousers works better. And I'm concerned about the weight. Might be a little light to give the cloth the drape and swing that is nice in gabardine.
Wool gabardine is a suiting and trousering rather than a jacketing. Sports coats shouldn't be smooth and plain. Cotton gabardine looks kind of like fancy chino cloth. It looks more crisp and has more of a sheen, and it's usually made up into dressier trousers rather than chinos. They look better with a blazer than chinos do. I have a cotton/silk gabardine sports coat, but I think the material would have been better as trousers or a suit.That sheen is why I prefer not to wear wool gabardine. I would like whipcord much better for trousers. I have no experience with cotton gabardine. I have also never seen a sportcoat made with wool gabardine -- it may well exist, I simply have not come across one.
This can work well with a 12-oz herringbone jacket. I wouldn't pair it with a very rough tweed, but I have a cashmere herringbone jacket that this would be perfect with. Gabardine is often good with blue blazers made of fabrics like hopsack, serge or doeskin.Thank you, Matt, for posting about Huddersfield Fine Worsteds. They have a lot of nice fabrics.
I was looking at their super gabardine collection:
The Super Gabardine Collection
This gabardine twill is 100% wool, and the weight is 11/12 ounce, 340/360 grams.
Would it be okay to pair this wool gabardine with a 12 ounce herringbone jacket? Or is it not rough looking enough to pair well with a herringbone weave?
And, in your opinion, what are the best odd jacket fabrics to pair with this particular wool gabardine?
I'm very curious to see some of this other kind of gabardine. I have had wool gabardine trousers from the 1980s which were very smooth but in a medium weight rather than today's more common lightweight gabardine. I used to have a pair of whipcord trousers, which were heavier with a steep twill. They were like a heavier, rougher gabardine. They looked like these trousers: Cavalry Twill TrousersI'm remembering a gabardine suit I purchased from (The original!) Jos. A Bank of Baltimore in '78. The cloth was substantial and I would sometimes pair the trousers with my tweed jackets. I've had other, and still have one remaining pair of gabardine trousers, and gabardine has indeed changed, becoming lighter, smoother and dressier. I also have had whipcord, and that's not what I referring to.
But, yes, gabardine of any sort is very different texturally from tweed, but paired carefully, I find the contrast harmonious, rather than dissonant.
Thanks for the clarification. My whipcord were also from Paul Stuart. They were in charcoal with D-rnig side adjusters. I loved them, but then I lost too much weight for them. I have an old pair of grey gabardine trousers from Brooks Brothers that may be what you describe. It's a medium-weight cloth around 11-12 oz and not nearly as smooth or soft as my Polo gabardines, which are about the same weight. I still wouldn't think to pair them with tweeds because of the weight. They go well with my blue blazers.I had at least one pair of whipcord trousers from Paul Stuart in the early '70's, very nice, but rough and rugged cloth. Chipp sold them too. Cavalry twill at the time was a similar heavier weight cloth, a little softer with the double twill, but rugged.
I didn't intend to imply that the gabardine of my youth was very similar to whipcord, it was still smooth, drapey cloth, just not quite as refined and dressing looking as what I've seen recently from cloth merchants, which is ultra fine, and tends to lighter weights. I suspect the wool fiber used was more run of the mill than the very slender fiber now used for much high quality yarn.