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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently got my first custom suit back and I am pleased with the results. The only thing that I would change the next time around is the sleeve width. I did not realize this was something that could vary from suit to suit. But in comparing a RTW jacket that I own with the Custom jacket, I notice that the custom jackets sleeves are a bit wider. Needless to say I prefer the narrow sleeve width. I think it gives a slimer overall look. Is this something that could be changed on the current jacket? If not, it is not that big of a deal and I could live with it. Thanks for reading.:icon_smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that is great news!! I thought that it was something that could not be adjusted. When we did the initial fitting, the jacket looked a bit boxy, but I was mainly focused on the sides. I thought that was the sole element contributing to the boxiness. They fixed the sides, but when I got home, I realized the sleeves were giving a similar effect. My last question is this: Since I did not say anything in the initial fitting, would it be appropriate for me to pay for the alteration? I know it sounds like a ridiculous question, but I don't want to be thought of as the problem customer. They did an excellent job for and excellent price and I would like to continue to go to this tailor in the future. Your thoughts are much appreciated. :icon_smile:
 

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Any Good custom tailor will guarantee his work for life or at least a year's worth of free adjustments, I think they shouldn't have any problem standing behind their product and adjusting the sleeves at no charge.
 

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that doesn't sound like a problem customer to me. If you want to hear about them I've got stories.... ha

As mentioned, the tailor should do the alteration for you at no charge and it shouldn't be too hard to do
 

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It doesn't happen too often, but it does occur. It's really on how you explained your tailor the way you would like the suit to fit, and if you like more of a tapered suit, or a more comfortable one. I think your next order, just let the tailor know you like the sleeves more tapered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
okay, thanks. I think the tailor was more concerned with comfort, but being new to this, I did not automatically equate that with wider sleeves. In the future, I will know to say I prefer a more tapered look. Thanks again for the information.
 

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first tell your tailor that you are very happy with your new suit. if he thinks that you will buy more from him, he will fall all over himself to please you.

always treat your tailor gently. they are becoming scarce.
 

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first tell your tailor that you are very happy with your new suit. if he thinks that you will buy more from him, he will fall all over himself to please you.

always treat your tailor gently. they are becoming scarce.
+1!!

If you had real buttonholes made it will be a problem since the adjustment should be made at the elbow seam, but otherwise, what they said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yes, already told my tailor I was very happy with the jacket as is and plan on seeing him in the near future for my wardrobe needs.

JeffryD: I called another tailor, who has done alterations for me in the past, and he said making the adjustments would not be a problem and would run about $15. I told him that the jacket has functional buttonholes and he said that did not matter.
 

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yes, already told my tailor I was very happy with the jacket as is and plan on seeing him in the near future for my wardrobe needs.

JeffryD: I called another tailor, who has done alterations for me in the past, and he said making the adjustments would not be a problem and would run about $15. I told him that the jacket has functional buttonholes and he said that did not matter.
Without getting too too technical, as you can see in the sketch below, when the sleeve is drafted, the front seam (inseam) is pretty much fixed regardless (although I may hollow the elbow a bit at the front)- the width of the sleeve is determined by the elbow seam at the back- the red line showing a narrow sleeve, the dotted green line showing a wide sleeve; the alteration should therefore be performed at the same place. If you are removing only a very small amount, I would hesitatingly say that you could take it out of the front. Any more than say 3/8" and I would be concerned; since he will have to trim the excess fabric out in order to get that seam to lie flat, I highly suggest that you have him baste it up first and try it on because once it's trimmed it's gone.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
so assuming that I have him bast it up first (not sure exactly what this means) and I want to take the sleeve width down from a fuller width to a more tapered width (for a slimmer look) AND given that I have functional buttonholes (4), you think it can be done without a any problems AS LONG AS IT IS BASTED AND WE ARE SURE WE GET IT WHERE I WANT IT SINCE WE CAN'T GO BACK ONCE WE CUT?

I assume basted means that he pins it to show me how it will look.

BTW - I just called the other tailor to see if it was possible to be done, I plan to have the original tailor make the alteration assuming that it can be done.

BTW #2 - I have a suit jacket that is fine, but was thinking of having the sides brought in to effect a slimmer look. I have a fuller chest and was wondering if bringing in the sides a bit would cause the lapels to pop out (usually have this problem with RTW). Thoughts and comments appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Sorry. Basting is temporary sewing so that you can check the fit before you do anything permanent. You are very right in assuming the sleeve width will greatly affect the look of the suit, and if there were no working buttonholes it would be a very worthwhile alteration. Given the buttonholes, if it were my suit or if you were my client I would say don't do it.

HOWEVER because of postural elements of sheer luck you may be able to get away with it but have him baste it first for a fitting because if he goes ahead with the alteration and you don't like it you can't go back. And it could be bad enough to trash the suit.

BTW#2, you should be able to bring the sides in without making the lapels "pop", which in the case of a full chest should really be remedied with a chest cut, something which is tough to do on RTW but a piece of cake on custom.

BTW#3 If you want a slimmer look, buy a slimmer suit. There is a lot more at play than simply the waist suppression, as you have gathered with your sleeve observation. Alterations are meant to adjust a suit to your build, not to change the silhouette of the suit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thank you for your input. I am going to see the tailor tomorrow.

The thing is, I showed him a picture of the look I was going for, which was a slimmer cut suit. However, the jacket that he initially came up with was fairly boxy. He already took the sides in once and it was better and I can live with it, but the sleeves are too wide for my taste. Again, I can live with it, but would rather not have to if I don't have to. In any case, will let you know what the outcome is. Thanks again.

Almost forgot, what is a "chest cut?" Is this a cut of suit, or something that is done after the jacket is made.
 

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Almost forgot, what is a "chest cut?" Is this a cut of suit, or something that is done after the jacket is made.
IT is a small dart hidden under the lapel which extends from the gorge (neck). It allows us to give a fuller chest which will not gape or pop away at the lapel area. It should be done during cutting/ fitting and not on a finished jacket.
 
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