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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Friends:

We all know that Brooks seems to be leaving us folks who like that traditional cut behind. I've been unable to find certain shirts I always buy in their inventory for well over six months. They may keep the non-iron basic solid colors around a while, but the writing is on the wall. I haven't tried a Madison fit because just looking at the specs indicates I'm not going to like them.

So, I need to start thinking about perhaps having a shirt made to order.Anybody suggest a source they like, including one that has a good non-iron fabric as well as traditional commercial laundry faire?

Alternatively, any readymade that have that blousy cut I like so much?
 

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If you like the Brooks must irons, I recommend at least trying a Madison fit before giving up on the brand. The Madison is still cut quite generously, in my opinion. I wear the BB Regent (previously Slim) Fit shirts almost exclusively, and I don’t care for very fitted shirts, nor am I a super thin person. The Regents are still plenty roomy for my taste, and the Madisons are roomier yet.

That said, I believe Mercer is a favored maker amongst those gents preferring a tent-like fit.
 

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I too like a full cut shirt. I order them from Ratio clothing. They make the shirts to your specs. Great service. I mailed them my favorite fitting shirt and they took all the measurements and made me a blueprint. Now I pick the fabric and the shirt is made perfectly. You can pick collars, cuffs and many other options. Check out their website. Cheers


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I agree about trying the Madison fit. Particularly if you have a larger neck size, as the difference between the two cuts is very slight, with the Madison being just a tad less blousy but still very full and comfortable. You may even prefer it over the trad fit. The chest on the Madison is still 3'' fuller than J.Press' OCBD or any of JAB's non-slim fit shirts. Right now you can get some of the Brooks Madison USA made OCBDs on sale for $75 BTW. Just got two more in the mail today.

For a RTW, I can't think of any options offhand. Mercer is great if you've got time and $.

I just checked the specs on Gitman Classic, looks like those are 1'' slimmer than BB Madison in the chest. So that's probably a no go for you. O'Connell's sells a full cut OCBD with a unlined and unfused collar, but I don't think those are reputed to be as full as Brooks trad fit. I'd probably inquire about garment measurements in your size.

As far as non-iron goes, I have no idea. BB MTM maybe? I strongly dislike non-iron shirts and only wear them when I have to or when I'm traveling. The biggest thing for me is that the collars on the non-iron shirts are uncomfortable, even without a tie because every company seems to make them with overly stiff fused collars that don't soften up the way I'd like.
 

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I too like a full cut shirt. I order them from Ratio clothing. They make the shirts to your specs. Great service. I mailed them my favorite fitting shirt and they took all the measurements and made me a blueprint. Now I pick the fabric and the shirt is made perfectly. You can pick collars, cuffs and many other options. Check out their website. Cheers

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Will Ratio do an unfused collar with no interlining or a soft interlining?
 

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Will Ratio do an unfused collar with no interlining or a soft interlining?
Yes - you just have to ask for it in the comments section of the order.

There are also other trad options not listed (at least when I ordered last) that they will do for you. If more customers ask for those options then they will become standard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you all for your advice. I managed to sneak into the Brooks here in PDX the day it was closing, with an hour to spare, and tried the Madison cut. It's not for me. I really am a traditional cut guy. I'll stay with BB as long as they offer what I want, but will start exploring the other options you mentioned.
 

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Thank you all for your advice. I managed to sneak into the Brooks here in PDX the day it was closing, with an hour to spare, and tried the Madison cut. It's not for me. I really am a traditional cut guy. I'll stay with BB as long as they offer what I want, but will start exploring the other options you mentioned.
Well, at least you've tried it so you know for sure. Even though the Madison cut works for me, I'll probably be trying Ratio soon. I'd like to Frankenstein the best features of different brands of shirts I have to come up with something closer to "just right" for me, and that seems possible with Ratio.
 

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So the Fitz collar rolls better than their standard BD collar? I tried to ask them about the differences between the two BD collars and the person I spoke via email with didn't really answer my question...
Yep. The standard BD collar has 3" collar points with the buttons spread 3" apart, and the Fitzgerald has 3.5" collar points with the buttons spread 4" apart. I'm wearing a Ratio Fitzgerald collared OCBD right now, and the collar roll is much closer to a Mercer than a current Brooks Brothers.
 

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Yep. The standard BD collar has 3" collar points with the buttons spread 3" apart, and the Fitzgerald has 3.5" collar points with the buttons spread 4" apart. I'm wearing a Ratio Fitzgerald collared OCBD right now, and the collar roll is much closer to a Mercer than a current Brooks Brothers.
I'll have to measure the collars on my latest USA made Brooks OCBDs (the ones that retail for $140)...they have a pretty good collar roll, better than some BB shirts from just 2 years ago. Been awhile since I've tried Mercer - I have a few that don't fit anymore.
 

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I'll have to measure the collars on my latest USA made Brooks OCBDs (the ones that retail for $140)...they have a pretty good collar roll, better than some BB shirts from just 2 years ago. Been awhile since I've tried Mercer - I have a few that don't fit anymore.
I have only 3 of the $140 specimen. It is possible that their collars are 1/8" longer than the old. Note that every shirt measures differently, both the new and the old; different color fabrics shrink differently; yada yada. Therefore we're dealing in a world of means and variances. That caveat posited, I say it is possible the new collars are 1/8" longer on average with a wide confidence interval.

All that mumbo jumbo in the 1st paragraph means that I attribute the better roll more to button placement than collar length. It is a demonstrable fact that buttons on the $140 shirt are sewn higher. (I find it true that any 3"+ collar can improve the roll by tinkering with the buttons.)
 
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